afterlife popping

[copachino]

Hi all i got an afterlife popping so hard no even optical bypass stop that from pops do have any idea where i should look??? Got all elrctros nichicon audio grade caps dioses are fine all xicon 1% resitors.... Still pops so hard that its useless

[midwayfair]

Measure the inputs and outputs with and without the switch thrown. Do you have DC there? The output cap is an electrolytic, those can be very leaky.

[madbean]

Possibly you have a leaky cap in C1.
What I would try: socket C1. Try another 1n there. If it still pops try a 10n. If it still pops try removing R1 or replacing it with 1M.

[copachino]

Measure the inputs and outputs with and without the switch thrown. Do you have DC there? The output cap is an electrolytic, those can be very leaky.

already change capas for better quality and also now i have all non electros caps, also i have a lot of  DC on the input and output, about 100mv on input and about 50mv on output

[copachino]

Possibly you have a leaky cap in C1.
What I would try: socket C1. Try another 1n there. If it still pops try a 10n. If it still pops try removing R1 or replacing it with 1M.

already did, proble its there still, change C1 to 10nf and nothing happens

[madbean]

Measure the inputs and outputs with and without the switch thrown. Do you have DC there? The output cap is an electrolytic, those can be very leaky.

already change capas for better quality and also now i have all non electros caps, also i have a lot of  DC on the input and output, about 100mv on input and about 50mv on output

That's the problem for sure. The question is why is it there?
How about your ground....are you reading a true 0v (or at least not more than a couple mV)?

[copachino]

Measure the inputs and outputs with and without the switch thrown. Do you have DC there? The output cap is an electrolytic, those can be very leaky.

already change capas for better quality and also now i have all non electros caps, also i have a lot of  DC on the input and output, about 100mv on input and about 50mv on output

That's the problem for sure. The question is why is it there?
How about your ground....are you reading a true 0v (or at least not more than a couple mV)?

just checked and ground its 0.00mv,inputs even on bypass are 50mv or more

[davent]

Could the dc be coming from outside the pedal, anything plugged into it when you measured the dc on the jacks. You've had lots of fun trying to get the SHO to not pop. Could an amp leak back to the pedal?

dave

[copachino]

When i take reading of DC i get no amp plug just power and no other pedal in not so sure yet and i know the SHO also mande me impossible to take that pop out

[madbean]

Measure the inputs and outputs with and without the switch thrown. Do you have DC there? The output cap is an electrolytic, those can be very leaky.

already change capas for better quality and also now i have all non electros caps, also i have a lot of  DC on the input and output, about 100mv on input and about 50mv on output

That's the problem for sure. The question is why is it there?
How about your ground....are you reading a true 0v (or at least not more than a couple mV)?

What if you temporarily disconnect the input and output from your switch? Do you still get a non zero reading on them?
I'd also look carefully at the board traces. There's always a possibility that there could be something wrong with the board, e.g. continuity when between traces that should not have it.


just checked and ground its 0.00mv,inputs even on bypass are 50mv or more

[Boba7]

Hey, did you ever figure it out?

I just built an Afterlife, it sounds absolutely amazing, but I have some popping switch issue.

I took out the led, I replaced the 10M at the input with a 1M, it didn't change anything.

There's no DC at the input or the output, except for half a second when engaging/disengaging the switch.

Is there anything I could try? Would replacing output cap (I think I used a nichicon 1uf) with a tantalum or a film make a difference?

P.S: the dual board is SO easy to work with and to mount in a 1590A! Great job.

[Boba7]

I changed R1 for a 2.2M, R2 for a 1M and C1 for a 10n (that way the C1/R2 filter stays the same as the original. Actually I used a 12nf since I didn't have any 10nf left)

Also changed the 10uf for a better (it was a cheap electro) and 1uf for a tantalum.

As a result, the pop is still there though a bit quieter.

Maybe it's just the switch then. Too lazy to change it right now.

[Boba7]

Do you think adding a 1k at the input and 100ohms at the output would help? Just thinking out loud, I have no idea what it'd actually do...

[Boba7]

So yeah, tried the resistors inline at the input and output but same result.

Now I have a 100k as a pulldown resistor at the input and the pop is very very quiet!
Is there anything wrong with a 100k pulldown resistor?

[Boba7]

My bad, even unpowered the switch pops like crazy, way more than any other pedal. I guess I'll change the 3pdt then!