Anyone make a plain, basic 3pdt board?

[AntKnee]

this thread brought to you by......

Lmao

[alanp]

Maybe I'm just a stingy bugger, but...

[chromesphere]

Maybe I'm just a stingy bugger, but...

This is why i tried to make mine as small / cheap as possible, i tend to agree Alan, its just another expense.

Why isnt there an etchable 3pdt pcb available?  Is it the pads for the 3pdt? Couldnt you just make massive oversized pads for the 3pdt lugs and use a standard drill bit (1.5-2mm) to drill them out?  I'll look into making up an etchable version of my layout when i get a few moments.

[blearyeyes]

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/isbogS3B

Simple, Chuckbuick made these..under a buck each..

[raulduke]

Those ChuckBuick ones looks nice.

I like to use em (my own design) and its purely for aesthetic reasons TBH.

They keep things looking nice and neat.

I used to use two-part connectors on my boards to allow to separate the 3PDT switch from the FX PCB.

Haven't bothered with that for a long while though 

[midwayfair]

Enlighten me, still have to strip all the wires, now have twice as many solder joints to make, looks like it's going to take more and longer heating to solder to the lugs then if just soldering a thin wire to a lug so more chance of buggering the switch. Is this entirely an aesthetic thing?
dave

If you have to remove the PCB for some reason, you desolder wires from a PCB instead of from the switch. There is less chance of damaging the switch.

You also don't have to solder a resistor to the LED legs if the PCB doesn't include the CLR.

[jimilee]

I would probably pay attention more to what I'm doing....maybe....


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[davent]

If i need the pcb out I just remove the switch from the enclosure along with everything else, never considered detaching the switch.

Depending on the build the led can be either side of the switch so it's wiring migrates to the outside closests and also often orient the switch turned 90°... so nothing to be gained and just like alanp said...
dave

[rullywowr]

Enlighten me, still have to strip all the wires, now have twice as many solder joints to make, looks like it's going to take more and longer heating to solder to the lugs then if just soldering a thin wire to a lug so more chance of buggering the switch. Is this entirely an aesthetic thing?
dave

If you have to remove the PCB for some reason, you desolder wires from a PCB instead of from the switch. There is less chance of damaging the switch.

You also don't have to solder a resistor to the LED legs if the PCB doesn't include the CLR.

Exactly this.  Plus it gives a nice spot to mount the LED itself without resorting to a bezel.

[selfdestroyer]

Enlighten me, still have to strip all the wires, now have twice as many solder joints to make, looks like it's going to take more and longer heating to solder to the lugs then if just soldering a thin wire to a lug so more chance of buggering the switch. Is this entirely an aesthetic thing?
dave

If you have to remove the PCB for some reason, you desolder wires from a PCB instead of from the switch. There is less chance of damaging the switch.

You also don't have to solder a resistor to the LED legs if the PCB doesn't include the CLR.

Exactly this.  Plus it gives a nice spot to mount the LED itself without resorting to a bezel.

This is the very first reason why I started using them when I first started building. I hate LED mounting. I am not a fan of bezels and did not like the look for hot glue. So using a daughter board to hold a LED in is a win in my book. Then I started realizing how much I hate offboard wiring and that was another reason to stay with the daughter board.

Cody

[chromesphere]

Not sure if theres an etchable 3pdt option.  Anyway, wacked this together, haven't tested it but should work.  Couple of small traces, should be ..ok.. for etching.  Drill out 2mm holes for 3pdt holes.  Will only fit PCB lug 3pdt's.

Let me know if anything needs adjusting.

[selfdestroyer]

My etchable one is located here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=15361.0

Cody

[peAk]

I like them and I am especially found of the 1776 ones.

At around $1.50 a piece, I don't see it as that much added expense. Unless of course you are selling a lot of pedals and trying to maximize profits.

For me, it also seems quicker than wiring a switch.