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Sunking 2 1n34a + IC2 substitutes?

Started by Mojo Fandangle, January 22, 2015, 03:46:58 AM

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Mojo Fandangle

Howdy peoples?
Thanks in advance to anybody who has any suggestions.

Q1) Can I substitute the Sunking II D1 and D2 1n34a diodes with 1n60p diodes, and how might it effect the sound?

I noticed that there is no subs option listed for them in the shopping list but had heard that these were the best sub available for the Wolfshirt 1n34a diodes.

Q2) Will substituting the ICL7660SCPA (IC2) with the suggested sub of TC1044SCPA effect the sound of the Sunking II very much?

Thanks again to anyone who can help me out. Me and my OCD get nervous about substitutes.
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

mandrewbot3k

Q1) PM ME your address I can mail you some in the US if you want because I don't know the answer. Lol. I probably have some to spare.

Q2) probably not. It's just for power to have dual voltage as far as I know.


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Andrew

(Formerly roflcopter)

Luke51411

I'd socket and try out whatever diodes you have then order some 1n34a whenever you place an order somewhere. You might even like another combination better.

Shrtyska9

#3
Q1: Those are the clipping diodes and can be swapped for just about any diodes LED's, 1n914's,1n270 unobtanium, unicorn tears... etc. Or left empty if you're doing the clipping switch.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5399.msg46670.msg#46670

Q2: shouldn't make too much of a difference if any.

Richard
Richard

Mojo Fandangle

Quote from: Luke51411 on January 22, 2015, 05:33:45 AM
I'd socket and try out whatever diodes you have then order some 1n34a whenever you place an order somewhere. You might even like another combination better.
Thanx. Yeah I'm gonna socket them either way just in case.
Also, Is the idea of socketing so that after experimenting you solder your choice straight into the socket or do I have to de-solder the sockets?
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

Mojo Fandangle

Quote from: mandrewbot3k on January 22, 2015, 05:24:25 AM
Q1) PM ME your address I can mail you some in the US if you want because I don't know the answer. Lol. I probably have some to spare.

Q2) probably not. It's just for power to have dual voltage as far as I know.


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Thanx.

Re Q1: Thanks heaps for the offer but unfortunately I'm in Australia (it's not that bad really).
I noticed that Tayda and DIYPedals (Aus) are out of stock of 1n34a and thought maybe they weren't in production any more but maybe I just have to wait for stock. DIYPedals have D9B Russian diodes that are supposedly 1n34a substitutes that I might order in.

Regarding Q2, That's sorta what I thought, that it was something to do with the charge pump and maybe running it at 18v but that it has the same requirements.
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

Luke51411

Diyguitarpedals is an excellent place to shop! I'm in the US and shipping was reasonable and arrived quickly when I ordered from him. He's also an active member here! I bought some of the russian diodes from him but I haven't really built many diode clipping effects lately but I know they've worked well when I have used them. Like anything, try it out and see what you think! Regarding the sockets, its really up to you what you do with them, I often find myself desoldering and removing them from the board once I have found the choice of whatever component I like, I just think it looks neater and less points of failure but there is always the risk of lifting traces in doing so... There is nothing wrong with soldering the component to the socket, its less work/time. It's really personal preference. If you are newer to building I would probably recommend soldering the component to the socket once you have made your selection until you get comfortable with desoldering and reworking things.

Mojo Fandangle

Quote from: Shrtyska9 on January 22, 2015, 05:36:08 AM
Q1: Those are the clipping diodes and can be swapped for just about any diodes LED's, 1n914's,1n270 unobtanium, unicorn tears... etc. Or left empty if you're doing the clipping switch.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5399.msg46670.msg#46670

Q2: shouldn't make too much of a difference if any.

Richard

Thanx Richard. Will try a few options. My diode destroyer title must be giving me a complex.
But what if I make a mistake and destroy the whole world?
And where do I find this so called unobtainium?
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

pryde

Keep in mind the 1N60P diodes are silicon (regular 1N60 are germanium). Depending on forward voltage, silcon diodes will give you more gain and maybe compression if that is what you are after.

Personally I don't like silicon diodes in the klon. The germanium 1N60 is a favorite of mine but another good choice is the 1N270 that might be a bit easier to track down. Diodes are cheap enough so try a bunch  8)


chromesphere

Thanks guys for the vote of confidence!

Yeah I would use D9B's.  I'm not stocking 1n34a's anymore as I can not reliably source them and reliability is up there with number one for the things I stock.  The last bunch of "1n34a's" looked different and didn't come in the manufacturers packaging.  What are they?  God knows.  I tested them, they are 0.3v and heat tested so GE but not specifically verified as 1n34a so I cant stock them as such.  Im really quite over the 1n34a issues so am moving on with my life. These supposed 1n34a's might go on the store as '1n34a workalike' like small bear sells.  Basically any ge diode that is unverified will go into that basket (1n34a workalike).  D9B's are easier though :)
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Mojo Fandangle

Quote from: chromesphere on January 23, 2015, 12:03:56 AM
Thanks guys for the vote of confidence!

Yeah I would use D9B's.  I'm not stocking 1n34a's anymore as I can not reliably source them and reliability is up there with number one for the things I stock.  The last bunch of "1n34a's" looked different and didn't come in the manufacturers packaging.  What are they?  God knows.  I tested them, they are 0.3v and heat tested so GE but not specifically verified as 1n34a so I cant stock them as such.  Im really quite over the 1n34a issues so am moving on with my life. These supposed 1n34a's might go on the store as '1n34a workalike' like small bear sells.  Basically any ge diode that is unverified will go into that basket (1n34a workalike).  D9B's are easier though :)
Thanks Paul. I'll hit up your website tonight for some D9B's and knobeys.
I did notice the cathode caution on the D9B's. I gather that means that the diode goes onto the pcb backwards so that the diodes stripes line up with the part of the pcb that has no stripe marked on it. Yes, no?
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

chromesphere

That's an old note actually.  I have d9b's with 2 different markings now. Ones actually got bands on both ends!  Yeah, best to check the diode with a digital multi meter to be sure.
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blearyeyes

QuoteAnd where do I find this so called unobtainium?

Well on Pandora of course!

Mojo Fandangle

Quote from: chromesphere on January 23, 2015, 09:05:34 AM
That's an old note actually.  I have d9b's with 2 different markings now. Ones actually got bands on both ends!  Yeah, best to check the diode with a digital multi meter to be sure.
Placed my order on the weekend. Gotta love the $2.50 postage for Australia. Awesome!
"If you don't do it yourself, no-one else will do it yourself"

https://www.youtube.com/user/MarkDally

chromesphere

Pedal Parts Shop              Youtube