Thunderpuss - level?

[MattL]

I've just finished my second failed Thunderpuss. The first one I used the Tone pad easy wiring diagram, and only got sound in bypass. I'm pretty sure I should be able to use that right? Anyway, the second one I followed the given off board wiring. I get sound when not bypassed, but it is just edgier and has less punch. Anybody know of a particular component that could be most attributed to the lack in boost? Again, it does change the color of the sound, but doesn't increase volume. I've put together harder pedals, so I don't know what the problem is, as I was very careful having failed on the first one. The only thing I did that might matter (but I doubt it) was to use a silver mica cap for the 47pf (C2). Any ideas? Thanks...

[madbean]

Have you tried testing either one out hooked up to a breadboard (to eliminate hardware failure, incorrect wire hookup, etc)?

[k.rock!]

I haven't built this before, but my guess would be on the wiring. I was under the impression that Tonepad's layout has the millenium bypass circuit built into the same board, so if you're trying to wire it like a regular 3PDT true bypass pedal I would think you would have some issues there...

I dunno, just a thought

-Kaleb

[MattL]

But it's the second one that I've built and this IS with the Mad Bean idea...plus Brian told me at one point that the Tone pad method would work for most. As far as the breadboard, I'm guessing you mean a permanent testing setup? No, I haven't tried that. I've wired 40 successful pedals though, so usually I do get the wiring right. I've also never had  volume issues that were related to the off board wiring. Have you guys seen that?

[Myramyd]

If you think it's the outboard wiring, I would just use jumpers to test connections (alligator clips with wires attached). If it sounds the same, then I would try components. Hopefully you socketed the BS170. Try a different BS170 or another similar tranny with the same pinout.

There isn't much to mess up on a build like this. Don't rule out a bad component.

J

[madbean]

Matt----I mean this with respect and not as a insult in any way: I've built many hundreds of circuits, and I always test them out before committing them to an enclosure. I'm not saying that is the problem here, but in terms of de-bugging it's part of the process of elimination. That might not be the issue at all....but it's also kind of necessary to get to the bottom of the problem. A reliable testing rig can eliminate a lot of pointless guesswork or your part, and ours  

[MattL]

Thanks guys, I had thought of the transistor and tried that with no change. I see it's almost as easy as builds get, but what confounds me is that I've failed twice. For caps 1 and 4 I uses the topmay box type and put them in the middle two of the four pads on each side...this seemed to make sense based on the diagram in the plans which illustrates bigger caps. But I do have to figure a way to make a test setup...

[MattL]

Would a testing rig include the bypass switch?

[madbean]

It's a good idea, IMO. The idea being that if you create a rig that has bypass switching that you know works 100% then you can focus your attention on debugging the build....not the wiring.

Here's an example of the one I'm putting together: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1510.0



And, Jacob's Design and Development tutorial works for this, although it has a lot more capability than an actual testing rig: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1230.0

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

IIRC, there was the discussion about the BS170 being static sensitive. I always handle them with plyers and never touch just to be safe.

[MattL]

Wow, I will study these closely...thanks!

[MattL]

Thanks bigmufffuzzwizz, maybe that's the case. I certainly didn't use pliers! I've tried three and quite a few other types, and I got either the same or nothing. Any ideas on de-staticing?

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

The way you do it is either to wear a static discharging wristband which would connect to GND or to touch something grounded, something that plugs into the wall w/ a 3 prong plug. It would have to have exposed metal to work effectively. For instance your computer will have screws on the back exposed. You should be dis-charged if you touch one of those. From there try your best not to rub your feet on the carpet or other static creating activities!  

[MattL]

Well thanks again!

[MattL]

It's a good idea, IMO. The idea being that if you create a rig that has bypass switching that you know works 100% then you can focus your attention on debugging the build....not the wiring.

Here's an example of the one I'm putting together: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1510.0



And, Jacob's Design and Development tutorial works for this, although it has a lot more capability than an actual testing rig: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1230.0

So I made one of these, and it works. I was curious though...it seems like it would be unuseable with positive ground or dual footswitch systems. Would this be accurate? But what a difference it makes...I've only done it with one board so far, but that board I know won't be the problem when I get it in the box if something doesn't work. Thanks!