is it my leads or is it my pedal?

[aran.e666]

Also just so you can compare, this might help

[midwayfair]

Take it out of the box and take pictures of both sides of the PCB. Unless or even if it worked before putting it in the enclosure, you cannot troubleshoot a pedal when it's in a box.

Your emitters of Q1 and Q2 are the same. That's not possible. Q2 should be nearly at ground potential, perhaps half a volt. I would bet that if you pulled out your multimeter and set it to continuity, you would find that they're connected, which would indicate that you did that cut wrong -- and where there's one cut wrong, there are many.

Is this your first veroboard build?

[aran.e666]

Okay thank you il send a pic of the base. I bet thats where I went wrong. Thanks

Aran

[aran.e666]

After following your advice midwayfair, I found a bridge which I must of made when I pushed the board back in since there was a long lead left but now it bypasses like it should and when the effect is engaged, all I get is very quiet fuzz/distortion. To hear this I had to crank up my amp to almoast max volume!

Aran

[aran.e666]

Also have I wired the pot right?

Aran

[the3secondrule]

No. You wire the pot to Wah 1&2 as per the layout you attached.

Also as per Jon's comment above, you need to check the emitters of q1&2, they should not be connected...

[aran.e666]

Ok so does the 3rd lug not go to output? Also il quickly check if q1 and 2s emmiters are connected. Thanks

Aran

[davent]

You can get away with much, much, much less solder, the potential bridges on there look to be pretty extensive, you'll need to check each individual copper segment against all those around with a meter set for contnuity to ensure there's no shorts.
Good luck!
dave

edit;added clarity

[aran.e666]

Yeah I thought that too, I checked with a magnifying glass and ran a very sharp Stanley knife blade through EVERY track like 20 tines atleast, any other ideas?  Thanks

Aran

[midwayfair]

Yeah I thought that too, I checked with a magnifying glass and ran a very sharp Stanley knife blade through EVERY track like 20 tines atleast, any other ideas?  Thanks

Aran

Everyone's eyes suck at detecting shorts, no matter how much you magnify it. You can't see the electrons.

Use a multimeter set to continuity to check. And use the schematic, not just the layout.

[aran.e666]

My multimeter is quite strange bacause it sometimes picks up continuity then it loses it so I might not see it so il give that a shot but I really cant see anything wrong with how ive wired it offboard etc. Thanks

Aran

[davent]

Yeah I thought that too, I checked with a magnifying glass and ran a very sharp Stanley knife blade through EVERY track like 20 tines atleast, any other ideas?  Thanks

Aran

Everyone's eyes suck at detecting shorts, no matter how much you magnify it. You can't see the electrons.

Use a multimeter set to continuity to check. And use the schematic, not just the layout.

Yes, i should have said check for shorts/continuity with a meter. I'll fix that.

If you can't rely on your meter for checking continuity you're sunk, you need a new one!

[aran.e666]

Im back, just found a link with my meter and stupidly broke a wire, il be back in a min when ive soldered it back. Cheers

Aran

[aran.e666]

  it bypasses and engages the effect but it acts as a volume pedal again

Aran

[spin]

the PCB out AND the pot lug three both go to the switch. I have not built a wah before, and this layout lists two outputs, which confused me. I went and looked at a schem to see that this does indeed have two outputs that must be connected.