Kingslayer II - less subtle Fat Switch?

[qberry22]

I built a Kingslayer II last weekend, and it's fantastic.

The Fat switch, however, is something I really want to not be so subtle. I'm not much of an electronics wiz, so I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on how to further fatten it up? In the TS808 clone I built some time ago, it was as easy as changing a capacitor for more low end. I think more low mids would be great for the KSII, personally. Any suggestions?

Oh, and when I tried LEDs in the clipping switch they sound neat and super crunchy (like a Turbo Rat), until the signal decays past a certain point; at a certain level, the signal cuts in and out rapidly. I went back to 1N914 diodes, although I don't hear much difference between them and 1N4001, honestly.

[thesameage]

I'd like to know too.

[qberry22]

Hm, I just looked at the Sunking II PDF and noticed there is a suggestion to increase one of the Caps from 150n to 220n for its own fat switch. Going back to the KSII, it looks like I could just do the same to C7.

The next time I source some parts, I'll include this and see how it plays out... unless somebody has a good reason not to, or a different recommendation.

[mgwhit]

The Fat switches on the Kingslayer 2 and Sunking 2 are very similar to the Fat switch on the Grean Bean, although the Green Bean uses slightly different values of capacitors.  One of the problems might just be the location of the Fat switch in the Gain stage feedback loop.  There just isn't as much gain in that stage of the Klon circuit (~28x) as there is in the analogous stage of the Tube Screamer (~116x), so the boost isn't as great in the frequencies determined by that capacitor.  Certainly try 220n for C7 and see how you like it.

Other places to try might be C1 and C2 (220n?) and the components around the Tone pot (R20, R23, C16).  A lot of people have played with the values of those Tone control components; searching this forum and the Internet should turn up some interesting suggestions.  Good luck!