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Finally making a parts order to stock my bench.

Started by ThePastRecedes, July 30, 2014, 09:47:15 PM

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ThePastRecedes

I've been building pedals for a couple years now but I only order parts on a pedal by pedal basis.

Edit: Here is the parts order. http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f526a5afd3
There are a few values missing but this should be fine for majority of my projects. Bellow is listed what I have.

200 of each xicon resistors from mouser.
100R
330R
470R
1K
1K8
2K2
3K3
3K9
4K7
5K6
6K8
10K
22K
27K
39K
47K
56K
100K
220K
330K
390K
470K
560K
1M
2M2
10M

Panasonic Electros
470u - 10
100u - 100
10u -100
1u - 100

Panasonic Film Caps
220n – 100
100n – 100
47n – 100
33n – 100
22n – 100 
10n – 100

MLCC
4n7 – 100
3n3 – 100 
2n2 – 100 
1nf – 100
I build stuff for myself, sometimes I do 1 offs, I label them as HornBlende Audio.

GermanCdn

Think you've probably got the right total number of caps, but you're over/under on a lot of them.

I'd bump up the qty on the 10/47/100 to at least 300

I'd add a 100 of 1 nF

12/15/18/27/56/68/82 - it's going to take a long time to burn through 100 of those.  40 of each would probably cover you for a lifetime of pedals.

Same for 120/150/180/270/330/560/680 - 40

390 nF - you're going to build 100 Sunkings?  You're the reason the boards never in stock.


The only known cure in the world for GAS is death.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

ThePastRecedes

Quote from: GermanCdn on July 30, 2014, 10:22:47 PM390 nF - you're going to build 100 Sunkings?  You're the reason the boards never in stock.

Haha  ;D You've got a point. It was mainly to hit the price breaks on mouser but I think I'd end up with way too many.
I build stuff for myself, sometimes I do 1 offs, I label them as HornBlende Audio.

jimilee

Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

Govmnt_Lacky

I would also recommend the following:

330R
470R
Might want to reconsider 10M. That's pretty big! Maybe more like 3M9?

1n5
Maybe max order for 100n as it seems to be one of the most popular.

NO Pf caps?

Where's the electros?

;D

Luke51411

I was just going to mention electros
Definitely get 4.7u, 10u, 47u, and 100u
Probably 22 and 33 denominations as well

ThePastRecedes

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on July 30, 2014, 11:11:48 PM
NO Pf caps?

Where's the electros?

;D
I'm pretty sorted for the pF caps... but how could I for get the electors  :o this is why I always have a million orders for a single project...
I build stuff for myself, sometimes I do 1 offs, I label them as HornBlende Audio.

Govmnt_Lacky

1uF, 2.2uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22uF, 47uF, 100uF, 220uF, and 470uF

You can get more but, those are the "most" used  ;D

Blues Healer

I have a confession:
I ordered stuff on a onesy-twosy basis for a long time, until it finally dawned on me that there was a better way! Plus, I finally looked at the price breaks. :D
But really, the main benefit was convenience. It's kinda nice when you can just about build a project with stock on hand.
I built up stock on stuff like the resistors over time though, as I ran into the same values. Same with caps ... plus, over time I became partial to certain brands, and then began to order common values in lots of 100. On less common values, I still tend to order at a lower price break, and it takes a little time to get familiar with some price breaks on Mouser.

I think you're on the right track, but while you're at it, might as well get some sockets too, both IC sockets, and the in line ones for transistors and components.
"music heals"

Justus

What I did was list out a shopping list for the first 5 pedals I wanted to make, then gauged the most useful values from that.  But now I'm about done with my first pedal and already looking for parts for 3 or 4 more... so maybe look at a shopping list for the first 10 pedals lol

chromesphere

Hey ThePast, check out this thread I started a while back.  Might help you plan your purchase (of film caps)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=13277.0
Paul
Pedal Parts Shop              Youtube

rullywowr

#11
It takes some time, but when you find you need a new value for a resistor etc...just pick up 200 xicons from mouser. 

I think Tayda has the best prices on sockets.

When ordering electros, pay attention to the diameter and height. You should get 25v (16v are okay but won't work in charge pump 18v builds). Electros should be 5mm dia up to about 100uF then at 100uF it will be 6.3mm dia. 220uF will be 8mm diameter.  Try to get the shortest height ones you can, nothing over 11mm - under is better.  Mouser has great name brand electros and I trust them more than the Tayda "chong" brands.

I recently shared a Mouser shopping cart with all ECQ-v panasonic film caps from 10n to 1uF. Search for "Panasonic" and the thread should come up on the forum.  I like the panasonics best, but Epcos or Kemet are good too. It's nice when they all match on a PCB....so keep that in mind.

It's great having a nicely organized stash of components....kind of like going into your kitchen and saying "what do I want to make today". 

I feel you are doing it right. If I had to do it all over I would order 90% of my components from Mouser.  Tayda is okay but at the price break points mouser is a better deal and higher quality for about the same money.   Nichicon, Kemet, xicon, panasonic, Epcos, are all good brands.

Edit:  Chromesphere's (paul) also has lots of good deals too for quality parts.



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dont-tase-me-bro

I just did my first big mouser order about an hour ago. Doing the math on the price breaks, it made sense to go big.  Resistors are super cheap, so are diodes
I thought this would save me money.

wgc

Quote from: rullywowr on July 31, 2014, 01:02:34 AM

When ordering electros, pay attention to the diameter and height. You should get 25v (16v are okay but won't work in charge pump 18v builds). Electros should be 5mm dia up to about 100uF then at 100uF it will be 6.3mm dia. 220uF will be 8mm diameter.  Try to get the shortest height ones you can, nothing over 11mm - under is better.  Mouser has great name brand electros and I trust them more than the Tayda "chong" brands.

I recently shared a Mouser shopping cart with all ECQ-v panasonic film caps from 10n to 1uF. Search for "Panasonic" and the thread should come up on the forum.  I like the panasonics best, but Epcos or Kemet are good too. It's nice when they all match on a PCB....so keep that in mind.

It's great having a nicely organized stash of components....kind of like going into your kitchen and saying "what do I want to make today". 

I feel you are doing it right. If I had to do it all over I would order 90% of my components from Mouser.  Tayda is okay but at the price break points mouser is a better deal and higher quality for about the same money.   Nichicon, Kemet, xicon, panasonic, Epcos, are all good brands.

Edit:  Chromesphere's (paul) also has lots of good deals too for quality parts.

Yeah, this is spot on and would have saved me some early grief.  Also, you can save some shipping money by planning several builds ahead and including the onesie-twosie things you'll need with the bigger bulk order.

There's always something I seem to miss though...  ::)
always the beautiful answer who asks a more beautiful question.
e.e. cummings

rullywowr

Quote from: wgc on July 31, 2014, 12:29:46 PM

There's always something I seem to miss though...  ::)

That's part of the fun, I suppose.  Another excuse to stock up on 100qty of that part you are missing....  I like Smallbear for grabbing specialized components that are hard to find.  I also find lots of good stuff on eBay especially if you buy in qty and don't mind waiting a couple weeks...LEDs, various ICs, diodes, transistors, voltage regulators, etc.  Sometimes you can snag some really hard to find stuff, or a whole boatload of common stuff for cheeep.

I really wish Tayda would get their #$*% together and stock up on more "A" and "C" taper PCB mount 16mm pots.  They are by far the best place to get 16mm "B" solid shaft PCB mount pots for around $0.55 each.  Other values, I have to get from "other suppliers" at about twice the cost.   :o   I don't mind soldering solid jumper wires to Tayda pots for my own builds, but if I am making for someone else...I want robust and professional PCB mount pots.

When I first started, I mostly used offboard wiring to the pots.  As my building progressed, I found that PCB mount pots are the cat's meow and pretty much the only way I fly now.  Not only do they eliminate some offboard wiring, they hold the board in place without you having to design a solution (tape, standoffs, etc).

/endmindless blabbering 8) 




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