Mudbunny Green Russian or Civil War circuit?

[ridgeback]

Which Mudbunny clone is closer to the original tall skinny letter (early) Green BMP?  I've read that original tall skinny-letter BMPs are closer to the Civil War BMPs that preceded them than the later fat-lettered Green Russians....

Between the GR and the CW, which circuit is bassier?  I built the Violet Ram's Head and while it is cool, I want it to have more balls / thickness like my green russian.  Is the Civil War circuit the way to go to get me closer?

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

I haven't had the chance to build a civil war muff yet. I've built a VRH and a green muff both from gruntbox boards and I like both of them! If you haven't seen this here's a LOT of big muff info.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/music_big_muff.html

Let us know the results you find! 

[ridgeback]

Thanks.  There is SO much info on the legendary muff.  Problem is, there is also so much variance even between 2 muffs made on the same day on the same bench, let alone the different versions.

This article also confirms that that tall lettered green russians were identical in circuit to the civil war so I guess I'll go with that circuit to hopefully approach the original.  Perhaps it's futile given all the variables and tolerances but it's fun...

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

Yea on the gruntbox the only real difference between the green and civil war versions is the 470pf ceramics are lowered to 430pf. And the last emitter resistor(R23) is 2.7k instead of 2K. I'm wondering myself if there is really a huge audible difference in those little changes. I've found other layouts on the web that have different values.
I guess I'll have to give it try. Maybe we can do some comparasions via sound demos. Can never have too much muff! 

[jkokura]

The biggest difference in sound is the transistors. Everything else 'might' make amsmall change n sound. Cumulatively if you changed a lot of parts in a small way it might make a difference, but considering part tolerances, you might get the same cumulative change trying to build the same parts.

I think it's interesting how people put a lot of effort into the different muffs. I know that drastic changes can really change it's sound, but a couple small cap and resistor changes mean almost nothing.

Pay attention to the transisitor changes though. I gotta find that article where a guy spent a week with a breadboard and the muff schems...

Jacob

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

Yea I am aware that the transistors are the heart of a big muff. The circuit mostly relies on and gets it tone from the multiple gain stages. Thats why I question the couple small changes. It makes me believe that possibly the specs for green and civil war muff imply that they were similiar versions whereas the earliest civil war muff may sound way different and closer to the red army muff. This is something I would like to know! And I'd like to see that guys documentation jkokura if you can find it!!

[jkokura]

Here's the forum post I found.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88048.0

Jacob

[ridgeback]

As suggested in the Mudbunny build instructions, changing the diodes to germanium NOS in different combos and parings definitely effects the sound and tone.  With 2 in the second pairing slots it's kinda cool. It's a bit less gain / less volume and darker. Maybe smoother and more compressed.  Kinda cool.  With all 4 diodes switched it's a huge drop in gain / volume.  Interesting but not good for me.

I'm going to try the resistor and cap switch out to Civil War specs (acknowledging that it might not make a major change) and then experiment with different trannys.

Somehow the original green russian is able to get this massive wall of low end but also maintain this top end clarity.  At least mine does.  I know they vary widely...