Pudgii Gorilla

[selfdestroyer]

This is the Fat Factory work alike that Brian did in the Extra Projects forum. I wanted to replace my Fuzz Factory with a vertical build to save on space. I decided to go with the Fat Factory and I am glad I did. I can still dial in all my "presets" that I loved on my Fuzz Factory and also can add some more thickness. Also, this pedal can do some really cool occilation that I was unable to get with the Fuzz Factory.

I used a pair of old 2SA72 transistors I had in my stash since I tried them on a whim and they sound awesome.

I did a reverse etch on the enclosure of a gorilla and the letter to represent the knobs.. but we all know it really doesn't matter what knob is named what on a Factory pedal.



Gut shot:


Do I get points for wasting a DPDT switch? Haha Its all I had on hand.. so it took one for the team.

Cody

[Willybomb]

When you say a "reverse etch", you're etching off the top of the enclosure around your design, yeah? Leaving the labeling and images raised?  I take it you then spray the box and sand the graphics back to metal?

[hoodoo]

Man, you are the reverse etch master, very cool 

[selfdestroyer]

When you say a "reverse etch", you're etching off the top of the enclosure around your design, yeah? Leaving the labeling and images raised?  I take it you then spray the box and sand the graphics back to metal?

Exactly

Man, you are the reverse etch master, very cool 

Thanks so much for your kind words. I Learned from the best around here. I have no idea where I would be if it wasn't for the shared knowledge around this place.

Cody

[hylandren]

Man, you are the reverse etch master, very cool 

Agreed.

[wgc]

awesome!  great etch

I think the word for this is etching the "negative space" or background

[pickdropper]

Do you powdercoat after the etch?  It looks great.

[selfdestroyer]

Do you powdercoat after the etch?  It looks great.

Thanks Pickdropper, Its all rattle can. I am in love with the Rustoleum metallic colors and have most of the colors in that series. I find that the darker metallic colors really help the etch pop.

I am still working on a pictorial for my blog but here is the jest of it.

1) Sand box 1000 grit
2) I iron on HP glossy presentation paper for transfer (I cater most of my "found" artwork to reverse etching.)
3) drill enclosure
4) paint enclosure with rattle can paint (light coats help to not lose your etch)
5) Use a small sanding block and 1500 grit paper to remove paint from raised area
6) You will have some areas of the paint that look a bit dull from the wet sand. Its not a problem since the clear coat paint will fill in any light scratches and makes the color pop even more.
7) 5 or 6 coats of flat clear

Cody

[jimilee]

Awesome.

[GrindCustoms]

Very Nice!

[TGP39]

Man that looks great Cody. I've been waiting for your part II tutorial. Now that I know how you paint/sand the enclosure, I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks for the info. Steve.

[alanp]

Don't know why, but the old overclocker practice of lapping CPU's comes to mind... do you use a glass surface for your sanding?! Impressive -- I honestly thought it was lasered!

[jubal81]

Awesome. Really love the graphics here and it's so damn clean...

[timbo_93631]

I have had all manner of fuzzes on my pedalboard that come and go, but the Pudgii I built from the boards you etched me has been in constant use since I built it.  They are useless, fun, irritating, and also wonderfully useful!  Which is a contradiction, wrapped in an enigma, which is deep fried in a conspiracy theory.  Yours looks great!

[chuckbuick]

Sweet.  Dig the design.