What Sort of Parts, etc.?

[marshallkiller91]

So what do you guys like to use in terms of Irons, etc.?

I've only modded some pedals and since I'm looking to get a new Soldering Iron (Weller, at the moment) I was wondering what y'all recommend or prefer.

In addition to that, any tips, etc. on getting off the ground and running? Not looking to build a complex build or anything on Vero right off the bat. I was thinking about building a Bacon Bits booster as I need one for my rig.

Thanks!

[flanagan0718]

I use a Weller iron myself. I love it. A lot if people here use Hakko irons, I've never used one but they must be good if these guys use them. I would also recommend a Mastech MS8268 Digital Multimeter if you don't have one. This one is awesome. It's auto ranging and tests capacitor values too. Welcome to the forum and don't be afraid to ask questions, these guys are super nice and helpful.



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[marshallkiller91]

I use a Weller iron myself. I love it. A lot if people here use Hakko irons, I've never used one but they must be good if these guys use them. I would also recommend a Mastech MS8268 Digital Multimeter if you don't have one. This one is awesome. It's auto ranging and tests capacitor values too. Welcome to the forum and don't be afraid to ask questions, these guys are super nice and helpful.



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Thanks!

Do you think it's a better idea to start off with a wicked simple build given that it's my first time or could/should I do a Cowboy level build given my previous experience soldering, modding, etc?

[lincolnic]

Generally, the only difference between a beginner project and a Cowboy one is that the Cowboy builds will have more parts. As long as you take your time and check yourself as you work, there's no reason you can't start with something bigger.

If you're a little nervous about soldering in a tighter space, then maybe an easier project (with more room to work) wouldn't be a bad starting point.

[pickdropper]

If you think you are going to spend a decent amount of time with DIY electronics of any kind, I'd recommend getting a nice soldering station from the get go.  There are two options:

1.)  Variable temperature - You adjust the temperature with a dial.  Most Weller and Hakko stations that folks around here use have this feature.

2.)  Tip determines temperature - Metcal/OKI irons are notable for this.  To change temperature, you change tip.  It's definitely not as convenient and the Metcal stuff is pricey, but it's stellar equipment and deals can be found on eBay.  Some Wellers have this as well, but I generally prefer the variable temp versions of the Weller stations.

I'd probably recommend option 1 for price reasons.  If you want to keep it under $100, many folks around here have Hakko FX-888D and love it.

[marshallkiller91]

Generally, the only difference between a beginner project and a Cowboy one is that the Cowboy builds will have more parts. As long as you take your time and check yourself as you work, there's no reason you can't start with something bigger.

If you're a little nervous about soldering in a tighter space, then maybe an easier project (with more room to work) wouldn't be a bad starting point.

I'm not nervous but I don't want to get too ahead of myself. I definitely would not start with a Low Rider 

As far as part sourcing, I've noticed that I've had to convert values. I've also noticed that when I've seen 3.3M, it can represented differently. Is there an easier way to source parts kinda like how BYOC does it?

[pickdropper]

Generally, the only difference between a beginner project and a Cowboy one is that the Cowboy builds will have more parts. As long as you take your time and check yourself as you work, there's no reason you can't start with something bigger.

If you're a little nervous about soldering in a tighter space, then maybe an easier project (with more room to work) wouldn't be a bad starting point.

I'm not nervous but I don't want to get too ahead of myself. I definitely would not start with a Low Rider 

As far as part sourcing, I've noticed that I've had to convert values. I've also noticed that when I've seen 3.3M, it can represented differently. Is there an easier way to source parts kinda like how BYOC does it?

It's a steeper learning curve, but if you learn how to navigate Mouser, the floodgates will open for you.  But I am not sure there is anything that is going to be as simple as ordering a kit from BYOC.  The biggest adjustment is that it isn't uncommon to have to shop at more than 1 vendor to get everything exactly as you'd like.  I regularly order from Mouser, Small Bear and Pedal Parts Plus.  I sporadically order from Newark and Allied Electronics.

[marshallkiller91]

Generally, the only difference between a beginner project and a Cowboy one is that the Cowboy builds will have more parts. As long as you take your time and check yourself as you work, there's no reason you can't start with something bigger.

If you're a little nervous about soldering in a tighter space, then maybe an easier project (with more room to work) wouldn't be a bad starting point.

I'm not nervous but I don't want to get too ahead of myself. I definitely would not start with a Low Rider 

As far as part sourcing, I've noticed that I've had to convert values. I've also noticed that when I've seen 3.3M, it can represented differently. Is there an easier way to source parts kinda like how BYOC does it?

It's a steeper learning curve, but if you learn how to navigate Mouser, the floodgates will open for you.  But I am not sure there is anything that is going to be as simple as ordering a kit from BYOC.  The biggest adjustment is that it isn't uncommon to have to shop at more than 1 vendor to get everything exactly as you'd like.  I regularly order from Mouser, Small Bear and Pedal Parts Plus.  I sporadically order from Newark and Allied Electronics.

I really like PPP for most things and Small Bear appears to have killer kit deals. Mouser has been tedious in the past for me but I chalk that up to a learning curve on my part.

I'm actually speccing out parts for the Bacon Bits boost right now. Gonna go with pre drilled and painted for this one as I'm not set up for anything major. I did think about copping out and trying to find a decal that I can seal with shellac, etc. for the interim.

[flanagan0718]

When I first started I used PPP a lot. I then started using Tayda and found some of their parts to be questionable. Most are fine by I would like to recommend Chromesphere (his name on this forum) he's got a great store and tons of common value stuff. Plus his shipping is fast too!


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[marshallkiller91]

When I first started I used PPP a lot. I then started using Tayda and found some of their parts to be questionable. Most are fine by I would like to recommend Chromesphere (his name on this forum) he's got a great store and tons of common value stuff. Plus his shipping is fast too!


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Thanks guy!

I like supporting smaller builders/enterprises as much as I can. The only thing I don't like so far is having to go to different manufactures for different things. I couldn't find the 4247A Zener I needed so I had to go on Small Bear. Only issues is that if I'm getting one Diode and one Capacitor, the $11 in shipping isn't worth it.

[pickdropper]

When I first started I used PPP a lot. I then started using Tayda and found some of their parts to be questionable. Most are fine by I would like to recommend Chromesphere (his name on this forum) he's got a great store and tons of common value stuff. Plus his shipping is fast too!


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Thanks guy!

I like supporting smaller builders/enterprises as much as I can. The only thing I don't like so far is having to go to different manufactures for different things. I couldn't find the 4247A Zener I needed so I had to go on Small Bear. Only issues is that if I'm getting one Diode and one Capacitor, the $11 in shipping isn't worth it.

Totally agree about Tayda.  A few things are ok, but many aren't.

As far as diode and cap, if you get stuck again, post here and we'll help get you sorted out at Mouser or Digikey.  Digikey has a $2.99 shipping option for things that small.

[marshallkiller91]

When I first started I used PPP a lot. I then started using Tayda and found some of their parts to be questionable. Most are fine by I would like to recommend Chromesphere (his name on this forum) he's got a great store and tons of common value stuff. Plus his shipping is fast too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guy!

I like supporting smaller builders/enterprises as much as I can. The only thing I don't like so far is having to go to different manufactures for different things. I couldn't find the 4247A Zener I needed so I had to go on Small Bear. Only issues is that if I'm getting one Diode and one Capacitor, the $11 in shipping isn't worth it.

Totally agree about Tayda.  A few things are ok, but many aren't.

As far as diode and cap, if you get stuck again, post here and we'll help get you sorted out at Mouser or Digikey.  Digikey has a $2.99 shipping option for things that small.

That's wicked awesome! Thanks buddy.

I'm ordering all my stuff for my first build next week. That includes a new iron, etc. The Hakko stuff looks great too.

What do you guys use for printers for your pedal designs and designing?