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mangler 2014 was working, redid with 3pdt board, now it doesn't work

Started by dont-tase-me-bro, May 16, 2014, 01:28:53 AM

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dont-tase-me-bro

This worked until I attempted to fix it.  Which I apparently am not good at.

Originally had it wired to have a battery and DC jack.  there was a little hum, so I decided to re-do it - this was my 3rd pedal so  I thought the manual wiring on the 3pdt could be the culprit.  I put in a new input jack, got rid of the battery, and put in a new 3PDT with 1776 board on the switch. 

before my precision repair work, I did get bypass, with a bit of hum whether the effect was engaged or bypassed.  but the fuzz did work.  it actually even sounded good.

now I get perfectly clean bypass and no effect.  also the LED does not turn on.  I ran the SW on the PCB to the round hole on the 1776 board.

if anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Pat
I thought this would save me money.

dont-tase-me-bro

I thought this would save me money.

dont-tase-me-bro

I thought this would save me money.

dont-tase-me-bro

I thought this would save me money.

wgc

did you reuse the same 3pdt pcb?  You may have damaged a connection from top side to bottom side when you desoldered the old switch and dc jack.  Use a multimeter to check continuity on each connection and trace of your 3pdt pcb.  You can also verify the switch works.

Failing that, you may have a short, maybe at the led?    You're getting bypass, so the connections to in/out are probably sound.  Also, the pcb worked before, and assuming you didn't do anything to it, it probably still does but just isn't getting power.
always the beautiful answer who asks a more beautiful question.
e.e. cummings

wgc

wait, I read that quick, you didn't have 3pdt switch before but do now?

I'm guessing your led connection may be reversed.  Try switching the wire to the other led hole on the pcb.

always the beautiful answer who asks a more beautiful question.
e.e. cummings

dont-tase-me-bro

before I attempted to fix it, I had the 3PDT wired normally, connecting each point with wire.  it did work, but there was a hum, which I thought may have been caused by it being kind of a hack job.

I put in a new 3PDT switch (just cut the wires off the old one and removed it), soldered the break out board, and then experienced the familiar crushing blow of turning the effect on for the first time, and hearing nothing.

if the LED is in the wrong pad, can that kill the whole circuit?  is the round one incorrect?
I thought this would save me money.

wgc

If wrong, it can short, and then you don't get 9V to your circuit, just to ground.  I don't know that breakout pcb but seems possible.  Also can't see your led. 

The quickest safe thing to do would be to check the led for shorting to the pcb above, box, etc.  Then disconnect that led wire from the breakout pcb, as well as the other wire.   See if it works then.

As for the hum, could be a few things but likely a bad ground connection somewhere, perhaps even outside the box that the fuzz is then making more apparent.
always the beautiful answer who asks a more beautiful question.
e.e. cummings

dont-tase-me-bro

I guess I'll try to remove the led wire from the 3pdt board

Before I attempted to fix this, the LED worked fine.  I had the pedal boxed up and working for around two weeks.  I just put with the hum due to the novelty that I made something that worked to an extent
I thought this would save me money.

dont-tase-me-bro

Looking at the mangler 2014 pcb schematic, the square SW pad is connected with a green line, to the square pad on the LED.  I wonder if connecting the round LED pad from the 3pdt is what is messing it up
I thought this would save me money.

gtr2

If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not.  First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?

Josh
1776 EFFECTS STORE     
Contract PCB designer

copachino

Quote from: gtr2 on May 16, 2014, 01:06:57 PM
If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not.  First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?

Josh


i think thats wrong, if the led has a short, then the circuit will be in short, thats common sense, if something its in short the led wont turn on, i always use that as a way to see if something its wrong, check voltages with multimeter, and also check the led polarity to see if you have not wire it upside down
Affiliations: madbeanpedals fan and pedal porn lover....

gtr2

Quote from: copachino on May 16, 2014, 01:15:28 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on May 16, 2014, 01:06:57 PM
If there is a LED problem it isn't going to change whether the effect works or not.  First off, do you have 9V to the pad on the mangler PCB?

Josh


i think thats wrong, if the led has a short, then the circuit will be in short, thats common sense, if something its in short the led wont turn on, i always use that as a way to see if something its wrong, check voltages with multimeter, and also check the led polarity to see if you have not wire it upside down

I've never had an LED "short", I've blown plenty ;)  And if a short was the case, other things would happen to raise a red flag... If the polarity is backwards on the LED, the LED just won't light because it is functioning as a diode...  In fact you can reach a breakdown voltage on a LED and it acts as a zener diode...

Josh

We don't know anything unless we have voltages :)
1776 EFFECTS STORE     
Contract PCB designer

Bret608

The main thing I can see going on is that you've used the wrong lug for the red wire on your dc jack. It needs to be moved to the one that's currently empty. The one you used is where the red lead of a battery clip would attach.

I hope this helps!

gtr2

Bret is right.  I didn't catch that the first go around on the pics.  A voltage check would have caught that.
1776 EFFECTS STORE     
Contract PCB designer