First time tagboard question

[Guybrush]

Hey all

I bought some tagboard a while back but never got round to building anything on it. I'm going to try a simple SHO for my first attempt but have quick question.

On the  tagboardeffects layout below the wire in the top right corner of the board goes to lug 1 and 2 of the gain/volume pot. How do I do this? Is it a simple case of connecting the wire to lug 1 then adding a jumper across to lug 2?



Apologies if I'm being thick I've just not come across this before when building from PCBs.

Thanks

[kothoma]

Is it a simple case of connecting the wire to lug 1 then adding a jumper across to lug 2?

Right.

[GermanCdn]

One thing to remember when using IVIark's layouts, always orient the transistor as per the pinout indicated, not per the transistor pictorial, as they don't always match (this comment isn't necessarily aimed at the SHO layout you're doing, just in using the layouts in general).

[flanagan0718]

One thing to remember when using IVIark's layouts, always orient the transistor as per the pinout indicated, not per the transistor pictorial, as they don't always match (this comment isn't necessarily aimed at the SHO layout you're doing, just in using the layouts in general).

I've used a few of his layouts and you are totally correct! Also pay attention to the ele caps. they are easy to reverse.

[RobA]

Or, you could just ignore lug 1 and only solder the wire to lug 2. The only reason I've seen for connection lug 1 in a case like this is some sort of backup if the wire to lug 2 fails, but that makes very little sense to me as the pedal still won't really work correctly if lug 2 fails and lug 1 is wired in place.

If I'm looking at the picture right and remembering the SHO the right way around, then the connection to lug 2 (and 1) is a connection straight to ground, so you could just wire lug 2 to ground and not back to the board.

[Guybrush]

Cheers guys. Really appreciate the advice.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Clayford]

Just a couple more comments since I didn't see anyone make them. You might know all of this already, but better safe than a couple hours of wasted time and head banging(the wrong kind)

One of the images on Vero/Strip(this isn't tagboard.) layouts needs to be a mirror image, and the other isn't exactly what you're looking at. It's better(IMHO) to assume the components pic is the TOP and know you don't see the copper traces. Mirror image the bottom for your cuts, like so, and your cuts will be in the correct place when looking at the top side of the board:
.
I find a sharp 1/8" drill bit in the hand with a few twists is perfect to break the trace. Just don't drill with it, it's .125" and your holes are only .1" apart. Other folks prefer a hobby knife to cut traces. Regardless, check your cuts with your DMM.

Here's a completed SHO on Vero that is ridiculously close to Mark's layout. (Having noticed that, a comment Mark made to me a couple months back makes complete sense, I owe him an apology.)
Differences are:
1W 100K resistor (1/4W is perfectly fine and was an ordering mistake on my part adds Mojo! )
3K CLR doesn't exist in Mark's layout. ignore that column
I brought the GND for the DC jack right into the board at the top row because it was convenient.


The reason to connect Lugs 1&2 together is engineering insurance. If the wiper(lug2) ever fails, you'll get wide open instead of nothing. Good for volumes.


(There's a cut to isolate the CLR on my pedal that you can't see. If you want the layout I'll happily share)

[Guybrush]

Thanks for the advice. I luckily figured out just before I started soldering that I had to reverse everything. I unfortunately don't have a 5Kc photo hook up so have had to order one in. I've populated the board and this is what it looks like. Can anyone confirm that it looks correct or spot any glaring errors?



Thanks

[Clayford]

Looks good Sir!
Dont be shy, flip that bad boy over and post it too. That's where 90% of vero errors show up. Tiny bridge, bad cut etc.

Best practice:
After soldering Vero, take a hobby knife and run it through the tracks between copper strips.

Also you've picked the perfect starter for Vero. It's simple and easy and the flipping issue is easy to work around. Could you have imagined on the MXR Noise Gate or a BMP...

Again, Great Job!

[muddyfox]

Best practice:
After soldering Vero, take a hobby knife and run it through the tracks between copper strips.

Yes! Knife those gaps!
That's like 90% of all errors solved right there. Even if you can't see the solderbridges, it's amazing how little stray solder it takes...

[Clayford]

Best practice:
After soldering Vero, take a hobby knife and run it through the tracks between copper strips.

Yes! Knife those gaps!
That's like 90% of all errors solved right there. Even if you can't see the solderbridges, it's amazing how little stray solder it takes...

I swear vero + flux = superconductor material

[flanagan0718]

To add to the tips and suggestions, here are mine.
-As stressed before KNIFE THOSE GAPS. I run my iron tip along the gap first then a knife.
-Save the leads you cut off. I use them as jumpers instead of wire. Wire is bulky and will not fit under an IC socket and can jam up your board if there are a lot of them.
-I solder the first resistor and then make all my cuts. Its a lot of counting and flipping but it works for me. I tried the mirror method but I ended up making a ton of mistakes.

Great job on the board! Looks good to me, and like Clayford said flip er over and take a "classy" pic of er. A functioning vero is a sexy thing!

[muddyfox]

To add to the tips and suggestions, here are mine.
-As stressed before KNIFE THOSE GAPS. I run my iron tip along the gap first then a knife.
-Save the leads you cut off. I use them as jumpers instead of wire. Wire is bulky and will not fit under an IC socket and can jam up your board if there are a lot of them.
-I solder the first resistor and then make all my cuts. Its a lot of counting and flipping but it works for me. I tried the mirror method but I ended up making a ton of mistakes.

Great job on the board! Looks good to me, and like Clayford said flip er over and take a "classy" pic of er. A functioning vero is a sexy thing!

Good call on the snipped-off leads. I have a matchbox ful of diode and elcap leads...
I use flimsy Tayda resistors so those are crap. 

[peAk]

Good thread

I have been wanting to try this and have been putting it off. There is already a lot of great advice in this thread.

+1 for the pic of the other side.

[muddyfox]

Just dive right in there... vero is very rewarding because things get done right away. No etching, fabhouses, drilling, fr4 dust... yes, pot wiring can get messy but that's also a good way to practice your lead dress skillz.
I'm all about smd these days because I find it fun but some of my vero builds were much more satisfying.