04.24 Releases - additional info

[GermanCdn]

After reading the build doc, I should have ordered more than one Sunking (it's this new mantra I'm trying out - I don't need to build three variants of every circuit.  Clearly it's a misguided decision on my part, and I will have to change it).

It's also easily the funniest build doc I've ever read.  Well done.

[ichilton]

Madbean - you say in the Kingslayer 2 doc about not knowing how to do the buffered/true bypass switch.

The info is here:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15958

See especially the comments by paulc, who did the design for the KTR.....and this link:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=97859#p97859

Ian

[pickdropper]

After reading the build doc, I should have ordered more than one Sunking (it's this new mantra I'm trying out - I don't need to build three variants of every circuit.  Clearly it's a misguided decision on my part, and I will have to change it).

It's also easily the funniest build doc I've ever read.  Well done.

It's a great build doc, but I was a bit disappointed that there wasn't a part number for the card table on the BOM.

[GermanCdn]

I just assumed the card tables were unobtanium as well; hence not listed on the BOM

And how excited is Jimi that there's bass specs?

[selfdestroyer]

And how excited is Jimi that there's bass specs?

Thought the same thing. lol

Cody

[madbean]

Madbean - you say in the Kingslayer 2 doc about not knowing how to do the buffered/true bypass switch.

The info is here:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15958

See especially the comments by paulc, who did the design for the KTR.....and this link:
http://freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?p=97859#p97859

Ian

Thanks, Ian. It wasn't so much not knowing how to do it, but rather not knowing how they did it. Specifically, you would want to lift the pulldown resistor in buffered bypass mode which to me looks like it would require a 3pdt toggle. But, it's such a minor thing I can't see it having a negative influence on the outcome. If it has already been dissected on FSB, people may just want to go with that setup rather than my solution. I did not know Paul had chimed in (I don't check in there too often).

[pickdropper]

Actually, a 1M resistor in buffered bypass does seem to darken the tone somewhat.  I accidentally put it on the first layout of the 1590a Klon boards I did.  I think Cleggy was the one that caught it.  I was just so used to putting a pull down there.....

[madbean]

It's actually 2M2 in this case. I know for a fact that is what he used in the KTR (or it might have been 2M...whatever). Still, I'm not really sure how the pulldown would load the signal, especially considering it is buffered right after that. It might be possible to leave the pulldown off altogether, regardless of what bypass method you use. I'll check it out as soon as I can get to it. My curiosity is piqued.

[pickdropper]

Well, it might be different with 2M2.  It's possible it was all in our heads, but I believe that all three of us (me, Juansolo and Cleggy) felt it was a little dark and it seemed to improve by snipping the 1M.

I also felt the build sounded different with MLCC caps vs electros and I've always been a capacitance is capacitance guy.  I'd have to double-check how close the MLCC caps were being run to their rated voltage as they derate as they get close.

Interesting, indeed.

[upthepunxxx]

I'm still new to the whole PCB build idea. When it says PCB mount for the pots, does that mean I should get right angle PCB mount pots? From looking at the layout on the build document, that seems to make the most sense. I am having trouble trying to visualize using straight pcb mount pots? Does that make sense? Apologies if this is common knowledge, just want to make sure I can use the pots to hold the board in place. I'm probably gonna order screw stand­off hardware from Small bear as well.

Also, thank you so much for the detailed build document. That really helps doodes like me 

[m-Kresol]

Brian, great job! The all look fantastic. I'll wait with my order till the delay madness starts in may and get it all in one bunch. I hope there's still a Kingslayer left by then.
I also have one question, we've been over quite often... The sunking is the version of the two which is closer to the original Klon (TM). I say "closer to" rather than "the same". It just looks to me from the schematics that the sunking has gained quite a few options to the original Klon (TM). What is the advantage of Kingslayer vs. Sunking.
Please don't get me wrong, this is not a complaint or anything, I'm just a little confused since the sunking seems to have a lot of new options.
Again: Kudos!

I'm still new to the whole PCB build idea. When it says PCB mount for the pots, does that mean I should get right angle PCB mount pots? From looking at the layout on the build document, that seems to make the most sense. I am having trouble trying to visualize using straight pcb mount pots? Does that make sense? Apologies if this is common knowledge, just want to make sure I can use the pots to hold the board in place. I'm probably gonna order screw stand­off hardware from Small bear as well.

yes, that's exactly what it means. It just makes everything pretty neat since you don't have to run wires around the enclosure. on the down side you have to drill really exact or the pots won't fit -> DRILL PRESS

[upthepunxxx]

Brian, great job! The all look fantastic. I'll wait with my order till the delay madness starts in may and get it all in one bunch. I hope there's still a Kingslayer left by then.
I also have one question, we've been over quite often... The sunking is the version of the two which is closer to the original Klon (TM). I say "closer to" rather than "the same". It just looks to me from the schematics that the sunking has gained quite a few options to the original Klon (TM). What is the advantage of Kingslayer vs. Sunking.
Please don't get me wrong, this is not a complaint or anything, I'm just a little confused since the sunking seems to have a lot of new options.
Again: Kudos!

I'm still new to the whole PCB build idea. When it says PCB mount for the pots, does that mean I should get right angle PCB mount pots? From looking at the layout on the build document, that seems to make the most sense. I am having trouble trying to visualize using straight pcb mount pots? Does that make sense? Apologies if this is common knowledge, just want to make sure I can use the pots to hold the board in place. I'm probably gonna order screw stand­off hardware from Small bear as well.

yes, that's exactly what it means. It just makes everything pretty neat since you don't have to run wires around the enclosure. on the down side you have to drill really exact or the pots won't fit -> DRILL PRESS

Sweet! Thank you so much for getting back to me. Right angle Pcb pots it is then! And luckily I do own a drill press! Pretty and neat is what I strive for. Well that and tone, but you know how that goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[icecycle66]

What the heck are all those numbers on the Sunking drill template?

[madbean]

A secret message.

[icecycle66]

A secret message.

Damn you.  Now I will obsess over such a thing.