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First pcb etching success!

Started by miter53, April 21, 2014, 04:15:21 PM

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miter53

Took me a dozen or so tries to get the transfer right, but I finally got a good one. Trying to get ready for the impending etcher's library...
"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
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selfdestroyer

miter53, Great job on that etch. One thing I would recommend is wet sanding it with some 1000 grit and it will get rid of the tiny spotting you are getting.

Cody

icecycle66


rullywowr

Nice job!  I would add that you should get some "liquid tin" by mg chemicals.



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davent

Excellent etch!

I find a coat of spray lacquer works better then Liquid Tin for ease of soldering if the board's going to be sitting for any length of time.
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

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selfdestroyer

Quote from: davent on April 21, 2014, 06:08:55 PM
Excellent etch!

I find a coat of spray lacquer works better then Liquid Tin for ease of soldering if the board's going to be sitting for any length of time.

Do you spray your board before you populate it with components? If so, do you get any discoloration or residuals from the lacquer after soldiering? I have shot some of my PCBs with clear coat when I am done populating them but never before.

Cody

Govmnt_Lacky

I spray my etched PCBs with Clear Coat Enamel. Basically, it just allows the traces to maintain their bright copper shine and there is no discoloration or oxidation ugliness.

Still have to clean off flux residue (which I hardly ever do anyways)

Leevibe

Great etch! +1 on liquid tin.

I haven't tried lacquer. Do you have to scrape the pads before soldering or do you solder it up and then spray it?

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: Leevibe on April 21, 2014, 06:58:05 PM
Do you have to scrape the pads before soldering or do you solder it up and then spray it?

Dont know about lacquer but, with enamel I spray BEFORE populating. When I solder, the iron melts the enamel on the pad and allows the solder to flow pretty easily.

alanp

That is a really clean etch! Keefe, look out! ;)

You're going to love that cosmo, too -- I had best results with a MP38A germanium.
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davent

Quote from: selfdestroyer on April 21, 2014, 06:13:14 PM
Quote from: davent on April 21, 2014, 06:08:55 PM
Excellent etch!

I find a coat of spray lacquer works better then Liquid Tin for ease of soldering if the board's going to be sitting for any length of time.

Do you spray your board before you populate it with components? If so, do you get any discoloration or residuals from the lacquer after soldiering? I have shot some of my PCBs with clear coat when I am done populating them but never before.

Cody
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 21, 2014, 07:16:48 PM
Quote from: Leevibe on April 21, 2014, 06:58:05 PM
Do you have to scrape the pads before soldering or do you solder it up and then spray it?

Dont know about lacquer but, with enamel I spray BEFORE populating. When I solder, the iron melts the enamel on the pad and allows the solder to flow pretty easily.

Ditto for the lacquer, spray immediately after cleaning the the etch resist from the traces. Prevents them from oxidizing, so soldering is easy at any given interval after they've been sprayed and preserves the nice shiny look. I found with liquid tin if there was a long interval between coating and soldering, soldering became far more difficult. And then if was a partially populated board it was a major pain to try to rehab the unsoldered pads.

Solder directly thru the lacquer, touch the iron to pad and lead, pffft and the solders flowing. Cleaning flux you can't use nasty solvents because the lacquer won't stand up to those, but if you need to clean a dental pick will pop the cooled flux off.



Testor's has/had(?) a Transparent Candy Green Lacquer that looked like solder mask when sprayed on but i could never get a nice good looking coat with it.

Now if you want to make the copper really pop, Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish.


"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

Govmnt_Lacky

Speaking of Liquid Tin....

I would LOVE to see a good tutorial on using that! Especially for etched face plates  ;)

I have a small bottle of it and would like to use it to "tin" some etched black PCB  8)

Does anyone have a lot of experience with it to share some insight?

davent

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 21, 2014, 11:38:01 PM
Speaking of Liquid Tin....

I would LOVE to see a good tutorial on using that! Especially for etched face plates  ;)

I have a small bottle of it and would like to use it to "tin" some etched black PCB  8)

Does anyone have a lot of experience with it to share some insight?

Billstein's the Master. (Scroll down a bit in the Pharoah thread)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14599.msg136305#msg136305
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=14223.msg132121#msg132121
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=13984.msg129516#msg129516
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=13978.msg129465#msg129465
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown

If my photos are missing again... they're hosted by photobucket... and as of 06/2017 being held hostage... to be continued?

Haberdasher

great first etch

man, i can't use liquid tin.  i think my water is too soft and it leaves HORRIBLE looking water spots everywhere.  or maybe it's not my water, i really dunno.  besides, one accidental whiff of that stuff and i get a nasty dull headache that lasts for a couple of hours.  i really don't think that stuff is very healthy to be around.

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jimilee

Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.