Mysterioso Jr.

[pandadandan]

Hot off the soldering iron!
Going to play with the cap values in the top switch; I think some parallel 500pf and 700pf ceramics would be good instead of the film caps.

[madbean]

Awesome wiring! But, no pictures of the top side?? Anything interesting going on there?

[pandadandan]

Awesome wiring! But, no pictures of the top side?? Anything interesting going on there?

Haven't finished really; still have to stamp out the controls on the copper plate. 
For this one, instead of tarnishing the plate with salt water as I did with the Poindexter, I heated it until it was glowing hot, then threw it in our kitchen sink.  Made a lovely hissing sound 




The wife wasn't impressed...

[lincolnic]

After looking at this and your other builds, I have to say that these are some amazing builds. What's the process of stamping those copper plates like?

Also, can I ask how you got your wires to hold such crisp right angles? It's a work of art in there!

[pandadandan]

After looking at this and your other builds, I have to say that these are some amazing builds. What's the process of stamping those copper plates like?

Also, can I ask how you got your wires to hold such crisp right angles? It's a work of art in there!

Copper plates are stamped with a hammer and a cheapo set of 4mm alphabet stamps.
The wires are smallbear's amazing ***amazing*** pre-bond 24awg hookup wire.

I live in Japan, yet I still order the smallbear prebond stuff because it's so good.  A pair of pliers and a flick of the wrist are all you need for nice 90 degree bends.

[lincolnic]

The wires are smallbear's amazing ***amazing*** pre-bond 24awg hookup wire.

Hey, that's exactly the wire I bought for the builds I'm working on now. I'll have to try it for myself.

[pandadandan]

The wires are smallbear's amazing ***amazing*** pre-bond 24awg hookup wire.

Hey, that's exactly the wire I bought for the builds I'm working on now. I'll have to try it for myself.

Go for it!  Just don't try to flex it too many times or the bonding breaks down and it reverts to standard multicore behaviour.

I also recommend the switch wiring system I use; it negates the need for the optional pulldown resistors in a lot of builds as everything is grounded all the time. 

1 2 3   -  -  -
4 5 6   -  -  -
7 8 9   -  -  -

Consider the numbers as the pin locations.
The ground wire goes from the ring of the input jack to pin 7, through pin 7 to pin 2 (bare wire) then to the ring of the output jack.  PCB ground goes to the input jack, too.
Input wire goes to pin 8 through to pin 3. 
Pin 5 goes to effect input.
Pin 9 goes to effect output.
Pin 6 goes to output jack tip.
Pin 4 goes to your LED -ve.

This wiring layout lets you get some nice straight lines if you want to be as OCD as I am.  Hahah.

[gtr2]

How does it sound...?  Interested in possibly building this.

[maysink]

Quick question on the alternate switch wiring: How are you grounding the power adapter? I don't see anything completing the circuit--I see power going to the PCB & the LED but the ground lug on the adapter looks vacant...

I'm going to try this scheme for the hell of it!

[pandadandan]

Quick question on the alternate switch wiring: How are you grounding the power adapter? I don't see anything completing the circuit--I see power going to the PCB & the LED but the ground lug on the adapter looks vacant...

I'm going to try this scheme for the hell of it!

It's the flash making it hard to see.  Look between the power ground lug and the input jack.  The ground lug is hardwired to the jack by a short (5mm) bare wire.   

[maysink]

That's what I figured but even after you mention it I can barely see it! Tried this method on a gruntbox I finished earlier this week and it works as expected. I may try it on my byoc optical compressor which pops EVERY TIME regardless of cables, amp and power supply.