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Waterslide paper

Started by AntKnee, April 10, 2014, 09:07:14 PM

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AntKnee

So I've used the Testors waterslide paper from the hobby store, recently I ordered some from small bear and it appears to be the exact same paper, different size. I just wanted to see if maybe they were all the same, or if some are and some aren't. If anyone who has purchased water slide paper from PPP or Papillo or anywhere else could chime in... Yeeeah, that would be great. Thank you.

Here's a sample of the Testor's / Small Bear decal paper:
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

peAk

I have always bought mine from EBay the seller digital_design_depot

AntKnee

I have a question about this stuff... I am using the inkject paper, not a laser. I have had pretty good results from the white paper if I am using a graphic that covers the entire face of the pedal. The clear paper, however, has had mixed results. If I try to do a black graphic and have the pedal's color be the background, most of time I end up with a glazed or frosty effect that I don't like, or I have it come out half clear, half frosty or something. I have had it work out a couple times, but inconsistently.

What CLEAR paper gives the most clear, consistent result?
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

ncdb07

#3
Quote from: AntKnee on April 12, 2014, 02:21:54 AM
I have a question about this stuff... I am using the inkject paper, not a laser. I have had pretty good results from the white paper if I am using a graphic that covers the entire face of the pedal. The clear paper, however, has had mixed results. If I try to do a black graphic and have the pedal's color be the background, most of time I end up with a glazed or frosty effect that I don't like, or I have it come out half clear, half frosty or something. I have had it work out a couple times, but inconsistently.

What CLEAR paper gives the most clear, consistent result?


It would help if you could post an example so we could see the issue and help from there.

I use Papillo clear inkjet waterslide paper. I make sure to print it on my photo printer which has 6 separate ink tanks on its highest quality photo glossy setting before spraying with a clear enamel.

I tried using my wife's all in one printer with terrible results. The words were splotchy and not sharp in the edges at all.

I also use several drops of Micro Sol in warm water to soften the decal. It real helps to sort of melt the decal in to the enclosure. This also really helped me get good results with waterslide decals.

Hope this helps!
ncdb07
Daniel

eldanko

I used the Testors stuff for a couple of years until I just couldn't stand it anymore. Sometimes it would set correctly, sometimes it wouldn't set at all... sometimes it would lift after it had set....

I'm using the Papilio stuff now and it's been considerably better to work with.
www.danekinser.com - Music, Builds, other nonsense

Jean-Rock

I also use Papilio and it works just fine!
Jonny Rock the "French Canadian"

Affiliation : Jonny Rock Gear

http://www.jonnyrockgear.com

hoodoo

I've given up trying inkjet decals as they were too hit and miss. Do yourself  a favour and try laser decal paper, i get mine printed at a copy shop for a 1.50 a sheet, or if black only, at work for nix  ;) there's no sealing involved and mine have worked everytime without issue. The inkjet images would often blur, run, discolour or crack, not worth the hassle IMO, good luck, Matt.

peAk

Inkjet works fine for me but I pretty much have it down to a science. I would love to have a laser jet but my inkjet works fine and I can't see spending the money on a full color laser jet.

1. Print the decal with the best settings, ultra glossy, blah blah.

2. Let it dry for at least 24 hours

3. Spray a light coat of clear coat glossy. Wait 30, spray another coat. Spray a third coat after another 30.

4. Let that dry for 24 hours.

5. Place the decal in Luke warm water with a tiny drop of dish soap.

6. After about 30 seconds, pull the decal out and slowly place it on the pedal and slide the backing out.

7. I use a paint sponge to slowly and gently stroke all the water and bubbles out.

8. Once it is positioned right and all the creases, bubbles, etc. are out, I let it dry for 24 hours.

Then I put three or four clear coats on the pedal


AntKnee

Quote from: peAk on April 13, 2014, 02:30:23 AM
Inkjet works fine for me but I pretty much have it down to a science. I would love to have a laser jet but my inkjet works fine and I can't see spending the money on a full color laser jet.

1. Print the decal with the best settings, ultra glossy, blah blah.

2. Let it dry for at least 24 hours

3. Spray a light coat of clear coat glossy. Wait 30, spray another coat. Spray a third coat after another 30.

4. Let that dry for 24 hours.

5. Place the decal in Luke warm water with a tiny drop of dish soap.

6. After about 30 seconds, pull the decal out and slowly place it on the pedal and slide the backing out.

7. I use a paint sponge to slowly and gently stroke all the water and bubbles out.

8. Once it is positioned right and all the creases, bubbles, etc. are out, I let it dry for 24 hours.

Then I put three or four clear coats on the pedal

Except for the dish soap, this has been my routine almost exactly. I'm going to try the Papilio paper next. I may just have to find a laser printer somewhere. I'd like to get into etching, anyway.
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

peAk

Yeah, I hear you. Honestly, they never come out perfect for me. If I was selling pedals, I would find another way, probably silk screen or something. These pedals don't have to be perfect for me because this is just a hobby and something to pass down to my son.

I agree about etching. It's something I would like to try as well. Problem is you need a laser jet for that too.

muddyfox

Luckily it doesnt have to be a color one for that.

Etching has its own set of pitfalls... Right paper, right toner, right iron... I could never get a consistent result so now im looking at waterslide :-)


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