Does anyone have a method for drilling straight(er) holes?

[peAk]

So Clay, just an update....my HF Drill Press that you recommended arrived last week and I am going to put it into action this weekend.

It's amazing to me that this thing was so cheap ($52.50 with coupon). Pretty solid construction. I am not expected miracles but I am sure it's going to work a tad bit better than my 12v B&D handdrill. 

[rullywowr]

I drilled a pilot hole then went up in increments (bigger drill bit sizes), this worked great. Im in the process of hunting down a titanium unibit. Does anybody have experience with cheaper versions of the unibit (not Irwin brand)?

I've got both the HF bits and the unibit.  Both work just fine for me.  I also like the non-stepped HF ones to enlarge holes a little at a time in some circumstances.  Remember to "slow speed/slow feed."  For the longest time I thought that HSS (high speed steel) bits were meant to run at high speed...nope!  We are only drilling through aluminum so the bits should last a lot longer than when used with other metals as long as you run slow.

Drill presses are great but you don't need one for this stuff and it's no guarantee that your results will be better then what you achieve with a handdrill.

For both you need the holes accurately layed out.

You need accurate center punched marks, i can't do that with a regular view-from-the-side punch so use an optical center punch to mark the holes then deepen/enlarge  the marks with an automatic center-punch.

Drill pilot holes with a very sharp (quality) bit that is small enough to nest in or be contained by your dead accurate punch marks.

After that- step up with individual bits in small increments to the step bit starter size or the final sizes needed.

If you have a row of pots with a slight alignment problem you can always make the holes a bit oversize or file the misses oval to bring it all back into line. And unless things are crazy out of whack and nothing is said, you're probably the only one that will notice.
dave

Dave is right on.  For best accuracy, a center punch is required equipment - and using a template will help get them all alligned nicely.  If you are careful, you can get away with using a stepped bit just on the punch marks.  Just lower the press down until it "kisses" the mark, back away, and visually ensure that the step bit it is hitting that punch indent dead on.  Then drill as normal.  For extra accuracy, I use a 1/8" drill bit to drill the center punch marks at times.  Especially when drilling the LEDs...I use a small pilot bit and then the appropriate size bit for the LED (3mm LED holes are too small for most step bits).

You guys already probably know this but when drilling pre painted/powdercoated boxes it helps to put a piece of cardboard down to protect the finish.  As you drill, lots of chips will get all over the table and if you grind those chips between the enclosure and drill press work table you will screw up your nicely painted enclosure.

[peAk]

Just wanted to update this thread for anyone who was following it.

I got a chance to use the press last weekend and let me tell you.....it made drilling the enclosure about 100X easier, better, and faster.

Drilling was a part of pedal building that I always dreaded. Not anymore. \

Again, just $52 bucks from HF.

Thanks Clay for the recommendation.

[flanagan0718]

Just wanted to update this thread for anyone who was following it.

I got a chance to use the press last weekend and let me tell you.....it made drilling the enclosure about 100X easier, better, and faster.

Drilling was a part of pedal building that I always dreaded. Not anymore. \

Again, just $52 bucks from HF.

Thanks Clay for the recommendation.

I have 5 or 6 completed boards sitting on my desk unboxed because i loath drilling. Might need to bite the bullet and buy a press. For $52 i might take the plunge.

[peAk]

I have to even confess that I even drilled my side in/outs without even a starter hole, I just drilled it with a 1/8" and it drilled like butter. Used a step drill after that.

I drilled most with the starter punch first though. Like someone mentioned earlier, they don't clamp their enclosure down and sort of let the enclosure settle into the starter drill punch. This way worked perfect for me.

[Leevibe]

Here's the optical punch.


http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=1,180,42311

Follow that with a punch much like the one Clayford linked above.

I have but never use a vice even when hand drilling. Great drill bits cut, they don't grab and spin the enclosure at all.
dave

Dave, that optical punch is one of the coolest pieces of workbench bling I've ever seen.

[jball85]

I'm reviving my thread, as I found a solution to the slightly out line holes problem. I bought a cheap file set, and used a round file to enlarge the hole in the direction I needed the pot to be moved. This works perfectly, and the if it's not too bad to begin with, the potentiometer washer will cover any evidence or ugliness that comes a result of the hole enlarging. I strongly suggest anyone using a hand drill for their enclosure drilling to pick some up.

[bela1961]

One more little tidbit of knowledge gained from experience. Although the aluminum is softer than steel it will almost weld itself to the flutes of your drill bits. You have to look closely and chip it off. If you don't, you'll see your holes out of round and the bit will have a tendency to stick while drilling. A good example of this is filing aluminum, it clogs up the file something terrible and you literally have to chip it out of the tiny indents. The stuff is pure misery to saw as well. (shaping bar stock).

[NewtechGS]

Drill Press for sure. Drill speed would be 2nd. Aluminium does not like being drilled too fast. Medium or 2nd from slowest on a pillar drill (2400rpm ish) is about right. Plus dont just steam on through, you want to cut a bit, then raise the drill bit out, then do a bit more. This will help remove the ally from the hole and the drill spirals as you go, which makes cutting accurately much easier. If you are using a stepper bit, than have the drill on it slowest setting.
Also what i find useful for nice accurate side holes on Hammond enclosures is to use an angle vise, which allows you to have the angled box sides on a flat plane for drilling. You can do it without one, but drilling down onto an angled box will cause the drills to drift

[blearyeyes]

http://www.grainger.com/product/GENERAL-Reamer-3ZG95?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/3ZG95_AS01?$smthumb$


Hand Reamers work really well for slightly enlarging holes when needed...

[Scruffie]

I used to just cheat, drill the hole smaller than desired and then finish it with a good circular file as I could shift the entire hole a bit if I wanted while opening it up and could get a nice smooth finish. Didn't really take that much longer.