LFO LED Indicator Wiring Question - Solved

[ddog]

The way by board is currently wired is that the LED Indicator is pulsating all the time. I have the LED wired directly from the board. Is it possible to wire it, so that when the effect is bypassed the Indicator LED is off?

I'm using a 1776 3PDT board which has space for a LED (currently blank). I was thinking of running some wires (ie + from PCB connected to + of 3PDT) from the 3PDT board to the LED Indicator on the PCB, but Im not sure it would work

[muddyfox]

If the third lug is currently empty, you can absolutely do it via the 3pdt board. What you need to do is complete your circuit not circuit-led-circuit as it is no but circuit-led-3pdt-circuit. Lemme try and set up a graphic for you. It may take a while, though! 

[ddog]

Not a problem, I might end up leaving it the way it is. Would something like this work:



Maybe there is a simpler solution

[muddyfox]

This is how I'd do it. Solder directly to lugs on the 3pdt.

[ddog]

Just to clarify that I am getting this correctly. The A-1 would have the positive lead of the indicator LED and A-2 would be the negative lead?

[muddyfox]

Doesnt matter, you are just inserting the 3pdt switch to break the lfo circuit so you can insert it at whichever side of the led you prefer. So you can go circuit - led+ - led- - a1 - a2 - circuit  or circuit - led- - led+ - a1 - a2 - circuit


sent from my mobile device

[ddog]

I don't think I'm getting this properly

I just tried it out - the Indicator LED is always on. The LFO LED is always on. When I switch the effect off the LED is off (so thats a success), but the pulsing stopped. The depth knob controls the intensity

What I did was connect the positive lead of the indicator diode to A1 and the negative lead to A2, thats if I am understanding this whole circuit thing properly. Is the actual LFO circuit have to be connected?


EDIT:

No Worries about this. I've grown to like that indicator, Ill be keeping it always on

[midwayfair]

Slow down, guys.

No one asked the OP what circuit he was working with.

There are multiple ways the LED gets driven, not all of which are a connection to ground.

If it's not a connection to ground, then you will not be able to wire it through the 3PDT PCB easily.

[ddog]

It's the electric boogaloo / Shoot the Moon Tremolo:



I made a dark cap/cover to place over the indicator so there is no need to turn it off via the circuit

[muddyfox]

I don't think I'm getting this properly

I just tried it out - the Indicator LED is always on. The LFO LED is always on. When I switch the effect off the LED is off (so thats a success), but the pulsing stopped. The depth knob controls the intensity

What I did was connect the positive lead of the indicator diode to A1 and the negative lead to A2, thats if I am understanding this whole circuit thing properly. Is the actual LFO circuit have to be connected?

Yes, we're getting the wires crossed, so to speak. 
It'd help if we knew the exact schematic we're working with, because now there's talk of an indicator LED?

Normally, with 1776 board, 3pdt columns B and C are used for the entire circuit true bypass and column A is an on/off indicator LED circuit. In this constellation, you can't use the led circuit in parallel with any LFO circuit.
On the other hand, if you are willing to forego a "normal" indicator LED and use the A circuit to make or break your LFO circuit (in effect using your pulsing LFO as an indicator LED), you can do that. For instance I did that in one of my Tremulus Lune builds back on vero.  I'm also assuming it's not the actual LFO led we're talking about (since that one is likely taped to a LDR?) but some sort of LED that fluctuates with rate/depth/whatever?

Stomping on a switch would bypass the circuit and also disconnect your LED from the rest of the circuit. Naturally the circuit would still be under power but the visual indication would be off. Is this what you need?

[muddyfox]

Haha... didn't need to write all that, apparently. 

[ddog]

Yep that was the original goal - use the LFO Indicator LED instead of the True Bypass Indicator LED.

When I stick the positive/negative leads to A1/A2 and turn on the effect

the LFO Indicator LED is always on
the actual LFO LED is also always on
if I play around with the depth knob, the actual LFO LED changes brightness, but the Indicator LED is at the same brightness

Its all settled now though. Thanks for the help! 

[muddyfox]

Good to hear. Still, if you want, we can do it the stompbox way. It's really an easy modification (a1/a2 don't go to led +/-  ). Just give us a holla.

[ddog]

Let's hear it, although the plastic cap over the LED works, its not that much of an elegant solution

[muddyfox]

OK so I'm guessing we're talking about the D1 LED, coming off opamp pin7. Two options, same result.
- Take that pin 7 and connect it to A1. Connect A2 to LED anode. Leave LED cathode where it is (R6/R7). Or
- Leave LED anode where it is (pin7), connect LED cathode to A1, connect A2 to R6/R7.

Done. When effect is on, so is your D1. When effect is off, your pin7-LED-R6/R7 part of the circuit is broken, no light (even though the rest of the circuit is actually operational, as it's still attached to DC). Use D1 for "circuit operational" instead of the +L bit and Robert's your mother's brother.