Wiring Masters, need some advice...

[Leevibe]

As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?

Yeah, getting wire out is no problem. It's removing the solder that is a PITA. I just had an experience yesterday where I had a pad come off a PCB. First time that has ever happened to me but it happened while I was try to heat the pcb from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Oh man, it's such a pain in the butt. The toothpick trick, is that just heat the solder up and stick a toothpick in?

Yep. simple and elegant. I can't wait to try it because I usually heat the pad from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Sometimes I get it first try, sometimes it takes multiple tries.

[peAk]

Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them  to shove it.

Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)

the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.

[peAk]

As far as desoldering wire, I find wire to be the easiest thing there is to desolder. Heat it up and pull it out. Clean out the pad and resolder. I use my cheap solder sucker to clean out the pad but I read that just leaving a toothpick in the hole as the solder cools will keep it clear. I want to try that but I keep forgetting to buy toothpicks! At least they fit the budget, right?

Yeah, getting wire out is no problem. It's removing the solder that is a PITA. I just had an experience yesterday where I had a pad come off a PCB. First time that has ever happened to me but it happened while I was try to heat the pcb from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Oh man, it's such a pain in the butt. The toothpick trick, is that just heat the solder up and stick a toothpick in?

Yep. simple and elegant. I can't wait to try it because I usually heat the pad from one side and use the solder sucker from the other. Sometimes I get it first try, sometimes it takes multiple tries.

I am sooo there. I do the exact same thing now and I HATE that method and I screwed up a pcb pad yesterday.

[Leevibe]

Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them  to shove it.

Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)

the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.

Chromesphere makes cool little jumpers by putting small spade connectors on one end of a wire that are perfectly sized to slide over the solder lugs of pots. I plan to make some jumpers with the mini spade connectors on one end and test clips on the other. Something like that would allow you to rock before box. Then you could focus on your wiring scheme.

[Leevibe]

Just butt splice in some more wire, and cover it with heat shrink tubing. If anyone tells you it looks ugly, then tell them  to shove it.

Also, don't waste your money on a dedicated desoldering iron, just get a decent solder sucker & some desoldering braid. It's not like you're going to be making tons of repeat mistakes, right? I mean, i'll bet you never cut your wires too short ever again ;-)

the problem is, I never EVER think about the enclosure layout until my circuit is finished and working. So I always have these damn pots (I don't use pcb mount pots) hanging off with wire and it's never the right length. It's always too short or too long.

Chromesphere makes cool little jumpers by putting small spade connectors on one end of a wire that are perfectly sized to slide over the solder lugs of pots. I plan to make some jumpers with the mini spade connectors on one end and test clips on the other. Something like that would allow you to rock before box. Then you could focus on your wiring scheme.

These are the test clips I'm thinking of getting. I think they're the kind that has the tiny little retractible claw as opposed to just the hook. I have one that works that way and I love it. It grabs ahold of a component lead easily and stays on until you disconnect it. It even works on mounted IC pins.

[peAk]

see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.

I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.

[upthepunxxx]

Man, this is one of those things that keeps me up at night. I go green with envy and become completley mystified when I see gut shots from pros like Juansolo and others. It really boggles my mind how you guys can keep everything so clean, with wires bent in all the right places and the lengths just long enough. Its goddamn pedal porn I tell you! Seriously though, whenever I get ready to box something I tell myself that this is the pedal that will look beautiful and clean under the hood. Then something happens, I black out and wake up with a box filled with wires that are too long or too short, sloppy soldering, boards that are crooked, LEDs hanging on for dear life. Its a mess man. So, I tell myself I'll get em next time kid. And thats what I strive for, a little cleaner, a little tighter, and just overall a little prettier than the last. Yea maybe it sounds the same, but I want it to look RAD! Is it the wire? Should I use solid core? Is that how dudes get those sweet ass bends to stay in their wire that is cut to the perfect length? Well, back to looking at gut shots for this punk...

[Leevibe]

see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.

I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.

If the pads for your pots are on the edge of the board, you could probably reach them with the little claw. If they are too far from the edge to grab, you would just grab the leg of whatever component is connected to the pad. Does that make sense?

[Leevibe]

Man, this is one of those things that keeps me up at night. I go green with envy and become completley mystified when I see gut shots from pros like Juansolo and others. It really boggles my mind how you guys can keep everything so clean, with wires bent in all the right places and the lengths just long enough. Its goddamn pedal porn I tell you! Seriously though, whenever I get ready to box something I tell myself that this is the pedal that will look beautiful and clean under the hood. Then something happens, I black out and wake up with a box filled with wires that are too long or too short, sloppy soldering, boards that are crooked, LEDs hanging on for dear life. Its a mess man. So, I tell myself I'll get em next time kid. And thats what I strive for, a little cleaner, a little tighter, and just overall a little prettier than the last. Yea maybe it sounds the same, but I want it to look RAD! Is it the wire? Should I use solid core? Is that how dudes get those sweet ass bends to stay in their wire that is cut to the perfect length? Well, back to looking at gut shots for this punk...

Go slow and be super patient. If each build is a little cleaner than the last, you're already doing the right thing!

Solid core wire gives perfect bends and strips easy. Downside is that it breaks easy.

Stranded wire is nice and flexible but doesn't like to hold its shape and the strands can fray and be annoying.

Pre-bonded is perfection. Flexible but hold its shape. No need to tin the wire ends since it's pre-tinned. Try the 24ga bonded from Smallbear. You'll probably never use anything else after that.

[peAk]

see, I had a thread a while back discussing this exact thing. I can't remember if you were in that discussion or not.

I want to build a test rig that would allow that type of connection. Do you have a link to what you are talking about? How does he connect the jumper to the PCB? The pots are easy to connect but I haven't found a good solution to make a good temp connection to the PCB.

If the pads for your pots are on the edge of the board, you could probably reach them with the little claw. If they are too far from the edge to grab, you would just grab the leg of whatever component is connected to the pad. Does that make sense?

Not sure I totally understand. Say I don't want to solder any wires to the pots, LEDs, in/out, etc. So say I want to test everything though with all the pots, LEDs, etc. How would I go about making a connection that will hold that isn't next to the edge of the PCB? So say a pot connection is in the middle of the board, what leg would you grab?

[Leevibe]

You would need the schematic or just trace the pad to whatever component lead it connects to on the board. You would then just clip to that lead from the top side of the board. These things are tiny enough to grab onto the little bit of exposed lead say between a resistor and it's pad. This is where a picture would help. Sorry about that. I'll take a picture tonight if it helps.

[peAk]

You would need the schematic or just trace the pad to whatever component lead it connects to on the board. You would then just clip to that lead from the top side of the board. These things are tiny enough to grab onto the little bit of exposed lead say between a resistor and it's pad. This is where a picture would help. Sorry about that. I'll take a picture tonight if it helps.

oh, I see what you are saying. Duh.

What about these?

http://www.amazon.com/Minigrabber-5pc-Test-Lead-Set/dp/B00AZM59FY/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WE49Z7AD3YQ3SWW0PCJ

a member, can't remember who, suggested these. Ever used them?

[Leevibe]

Yep. I used some just yesterday. This type has a little retractible hook. They work well but sometimes they will pop off. The type I'm after, which I have one of already, have a little two piece claw that retracts. They really grab ahold and won't pop off until you decide to disconnect them.

[peAk]

Definitely interested in what you are talking about.

What would be ideal is a miniature banana style plug

[Leevibe]

you could try a breadboard jumper with a little blu-tack to hold it in place. Might be a bit sketchy but I actually might try it myself. Yeah, a tiny banana plug would be cool.