Tips on drilling enclosures....

[peAk]

Okay, so one of the parts I hate with pedal building is drilling the enclosures. I don't like predrilled enclosures because I don't like to be confined to placing hardware.

Besides buying a drill press, any tips or tricks on making sure you drill spot on?

As of now, I print my graphic on a paper, tape it down to the enclosure, tap a starter hole, Drill a small hole, then use a step drill bit to the size I need.

It works okay but I never seem to get it perfect. Maybe my drill walks a little, not sure.

Just curious if anyone had any tips or tricks when using a handheld drill?

[rullywowr]

Get a spring loaded center punch and some stepped drill bits. These even without a drill press will make you a drilling expert in no time.  The punch will mark the center of the hole and eliminate walk of the bit. Tape your template right on the pedal and punch through that. Bingo!

[peAk]

Yeah, that's pretty much what I am doing now. I guess it gets more difficult when you have busy graphics where many things need to line up. Sometimes I wish I could drill after the water slide decal but I am sure that would create other problems.

[rullywowr]

If you use the same template to drill as the graphic - you will get it perfect. I make my graphic with dots for the drill holes. When you put the waterslide on, ensure the holes are lined up with the dots.   Takes a little practice but u will get it

[davent]

My eyesight is wonky and trying to side view the center punch tip and line it up with the layout mark is usually a fail so Santa brought me an optical center punch (years ago) which requires work to screw up with.

After the optical punch i'll use the spring punch to deepen the divot a touch... me and a hammer another story.

Pilot hole with a 1/16" bit-> 3/32" -> 1/8"-> step bit.

A drill press is a godsend but you can get equal results with handdrill.

And the key to good results... great, sharp drill bits, you don't find these in a blister pack big box store, find a tool specialist, they keep them behind the counter, money well spent.




http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=1,180,42311

[GrindCustoms]

Get a spring loaded center punch and some stepped drill bits. These even without a drill press will make you a drilling expert in no time.  The punch will mark the center of the hole and eliminate walk of the bit. Tape your template right on the pedal and punch through that. Bingo!

That's exactly what i do, other that before using the step drill bit i use a 1/8 drill bit for all the pilot holes. Even with a well sharpened step bit, just using the punch mark will sometime get you off a bit, little offset when doing tight layout or really crowded is something i try to avoid at max, i hate correcting holes.

I also drill all my pot nubs.. ...a maso-OCD habit, for these i use a 7/32 drill bit.

I drilled this yesterday evening using my hand drill, i only use my press drill when doing batches of enclosures.

[raulduke]

Use a centre punch (spring loaded or standard is fine, I prefer standard type) to mark the centre of each hole. This is an important step.

Start with a small guide hole (I go for 3mm).

Work up in 2/3mm increments (I go with 6.4mm for every hole next, the diameter of the LED Bezels I use).

Don't use a stepper bit. Buy a full set of drill bits.

You can also buy cutting fluid/compound if you want to get really neat holes (helps the bit cut through the metal).

This method always works great for me.

[peAk]

My eyesight is wonky and trying to side view the center punch tip and line it up with the layout mark is usually a fail so Santa brought me an optical center punch (years ago) which requires work to screw up with.

After the optical punch i'll use the spring punch to deepen the divot a touch... me and a hammer another story.

Pilot hole with a 1/16" bit-> 3/32" -> 1/8"-> step bit.

A drill press is a godsend but you can get equal results with handdrill.

And the key to good results... great, sharp drill bits, you don't find these in a blister pack big box store, find a tool specialist, they keep them behind the counter, money well spent.




http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45502&cat=1,180,42311

something like this would be really nice.

[GrindCustoms]

Don't use a stepper bit. Buy a full set of drill bits.

Why?

In the OP thread, Peak says that he don't have a PressDrill, fully sized bits with a hand drill can be a wrist killer.... when they gripe... you're dead...

And if going with small increments using standard bit... you'll have to go through 6 different bits change at least to get a proper 3PDT hole done.

Care to explain a bit more about that.., simply because maybe i'm missing something... but everything that i've drilled since i'm in DIY have been made with the same set of step drills.. that i simply sharpen every 50 builts or so...

[raulduke]

I admit the don't was a bit over emphasised

In my opinion they don't do as neat a job as standard drill bits. They seem to blunt easier too. The depth of each step also determines the depth of what material you can accurately work with.

If it works for you then fair does though. Horses for courses etc...

[davent]

+1 on step bits... i've drilled 1" plus sized holes for tube sockets in Hammond aluminum chassis', using a them with a hand drill, no issues.
dave

[GrindCustoms]

I admit the don't was a bit over emphasised

In my opinion they don't do as neat a job as standard drill bits. They seem to blunt easier too. The depth of each step also determines the depth of what material you can accurately work with.

If it works for you then fair does though. Horses for courses etc...

Totally agree with you Steve, the main factor of the quality of the hole with the step drill, is the speed at wich you run it, I'd have to check the ratio on my press drill.. but with my handrill, i go quite slow.

Otherwise they heat up and it get filled with aluminium burrs and work like shite.

The one i use for pot, jacks, DC, 3PDT, toggles have sidewalls of 5/16th approximately.... kind a perfect for cast enclosure. The other one i use with smaller increments for use with Bezels, Lenses..stuff like that where i want a snug fit have maybe 3/16 sidewall.. it's limit, but works well.. and gives me that countersunk look that i did...

[GermanCdn]

I go the following route

Spring loaded centre punch to mark the holes.

Pilot holes with a 3/16" bit (I don't start the hole with a step bit, as it can skate a little and your hole will be off centre)

Remnant with a step bit.

I only use a drill press, it's a lot easier, and a handdrill is harder to control the speed on, and if it binds, it is a wrist killer.  I also don't do any drilling unless I have at least five enclosures to drill, as I only like cleaning up a pile of aluminum shaving so much.

After drilling, I clean the step bit with a small wire brush while its spinning, gets rid of any aluminum that wants to fuse to the bit or any tape residue. 

I also have a chart up behind my drill press indicating the number of steps for each component for to size and oversize drilling.  Makes it a lot easier than having to remember.

[Hangingmonkey]

Get a spring loaded center punch and some stepped drill bits. These even without a drill press will make you a drilling expert in no time.  The punch will mark the center of the hole and eliminate walk of the bit. Tape your template right on the pedal and punch through that. Bingo!

That's exactly what i do, other that before using the step drill bit i use a 1/8 drill bit for all the pilot holes. Even with a well sharpened step bit, just using the punch mark will sometime get you off a bit, little offset when doing tight layout or really crowded is something i try to avoid at max, i hate correcting holes.

I also drill all my pot nubs.. ...a maso-OCD habit, for these i use a 7/32 drill bit.

I drilled this yesterday evening using my hand drill, i only use my press drill when doing batches of enclosures.

You have me curious, what are you planning to put in that enclosure?

[GrindCustoms]

All i can say is that it will be Tubeeeeeeyyyy!!!