Need help with PCB layout work

[Clayford]

I bet if you go and scan the PCB and put it up here, one of the guys would do the software work

+1

[wgc]

There's an image of the bottom of the pcb in link below.

I spent about 2 min on google.

http://www.pedalarea.com/choruses.htm

You could have an etch able image in about 20 min if you know an image program, maybe 3-4 hours if you don't and need to each some YouTube. The hardest thing will be scaling appropriately.  The second post is the way I'd do it if in a hurry.

Good luck!

[wgc]

Btw I'd do it for you but I'm away and only have my iphone.

[DutchMF]

I'm familiar with Eagle, and I think I can do what you want, given the proper information. This would be:
-A correct schematic
-Very good pics of both sides of the board
-A date when you need this to be done

The last one is quite important, as I can not start right away, next tuesday at the latest. Let me know if you're interested.

Paul

[Clayford]

A bit of background,

The PCB powerjack was CUT OUT of the PCB by a tall brained moron. What he's looking for is a replacement PCB that matches the current one, with a pcb mounted powerjack on it, and transplant the majority of the components to the new board. So a scan of the trace side(it's a single sided board) and then filling in the traces, to make an etchable board is what's needed here.

For those not getting the tall brained moron comment...

[fixxe]

There's an image of the bottom of the pcb in link below.

I spent about 2 min on google.

http://www.pedalarea.com/choruses.htm

You could have an etch able image in about 20 min if you know an image program, maybe 3-4 hours if you don't and need to each some YouTube. The hardest thing will be scaling appropriately.  The second post is the way I'd do it if in a hurry.

Good luck!

the photo seems to be taken at a slight angle, don't know if this would be a problem. but I think the different lighting would definitely be a pain in the ass. if there's a photo it should be well and evenly lit and taken without a flash.
also, like you said, the dimensions need to be given.

[midwayfair]

This is what I e-mailed to Greg weeks ago:

I need something way more exact than you can give me with a handheld camera. You need to remove the PCB from the enclosure, put it traces-down on a scanner, and send me that. It's the only way to ensure that there is no variation in placement and sizing.

Greg, I don't mean to air any dirty laundry, but you never sent the scans that you told me you'd send, and that was over a month ago. I honestly don't know if I'd have the time for it now, but if you post them here, maybe someone can take up the project. Get 600 dpi color scans.

EDIT: Actually, I just tried to boot up Photoshop and our copy isn't functioning anymore for some reason. I think it's "obtainable" somewhere, though ...

[wgc]

There's an image of the bottom of the pcb in link below.

I spent about 2 min on google.

http://www.pedalarea.com/choruses.htm

You could have an etch able image in about 20 min if you know an image program, maybe 3-4 hours if you don't and need to each some YouTube. The hardest thing will be scaling appropriately.  The second post is the way I'd do it if in a hurry.

Good luck!

the photo seems to be taken at a slight angle, don't know if this would be a problem. but I think the different lighting would definitely be a pain in the ass. if there's a photo it should be well and evenly lit and taken without a flash.
also, like you said, the dimensions need to be given.

Agree on all points but it is workable if you're in a hurry. There's enough contrast between trace and board that the lighting is workable. Also ps perspective tool can help with the slight angle though I doubt it will actually be an issue. The biggest thing is the scale.   Ms paint probably can't help, gimp might squeak by, but ps shouldn't have too much trouble.

My point is that there's lots of help available, though there are probably some minor comprimises no matter how it's done.

One other thought is that it shouldn't be hard to solder wires to the traces and get the original pcb working?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Greg, I don't mean to air any dirty laundry, but you never sent the scans that you told me you'd send, and that was over a month ago.

I remember Jon. The reason why I did not send them off to you was because I was told that the project was under way and under control.

If I had known that a month later I would still have no response from said person, I would have sent them.

I will try to get a scan of the PCB and put it up on here soon!

Thanks to everyone for the offers and advice 

[Scruffie]

Greg, I don't mean to air any dirty laundry, but you never sent the scans that you told me you'd send, and that was over a month ago.

I remember Jon. The reason why I did not send them off to you was because I was told that the project was under way and under control.

If I had known that a month later I would still have no response from said person, I would have sent them.

Are you really calling someone out for trying to help you? 

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Are you really calling someone out for trying to help you? 

I'm not calling anyone out. I am doing two things:

#1 Trying to see if someone can help me with this...

#2 Speaking the truth about how I came to this point.

I do not want to get into it here any further than I have. Now, I appreciate the many offers to help with this and I am grateful however, if anyone has an issue with the way I am approaching this then I am more than happy to field a PM and explain the story 

[LaceSensor]

Pm'd

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Pm'd

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