Op-Amp Muff(s)

[rullywowr]

Did a small run of Opamp Muffs. 













My first time using a new faceplate technique.  It's a product called "LaserMAX" by Rowmark which is a two layer acrylic product.  I tried a few different colors and this one really stood out to me.  It looks like a brushed metal finish that has "grain".  It took a few tries to dial in the correct laser engraver power settings, but I am really satisfied with the result.  The best part is that it's repeatable      I powdercoated the boxes myself in matte black.   I am very pleased with the look and sound of the finished effect and my "Muff OPportunity" PCB.   I will swap out the nylon stomp washers for metal ones and then off they go!  Really nails that "Siamese Dream" sound.  Can't stop playing Pumpkins riffs when this is on.   

[billstein]

That looks killer Ben.

[jimilee]

Sweet!

[lincolnic]

Looking great! The Op-Amp Muff is a favorite...I need to replace the switch in mine, I think it failed a while back. Miss that pedal!

[hoodoo]

Super pro looking pedals mate, i had to read it twice to make sure they weren't brushed stainless faceplates. Tell us more about how you did this.

[Bret608]

I'd like to hear more about this faceplate technique too. Looks great!

[muddyfox]

So will you still be doing ET for variety or is this now your go-to labeling?

[Cortexturizer]

I love the cold professionalism of those. You sir are slowly threating to endanger the pedestal of pickdropper, as THE machine of a builder. Awesome stuff.

[rullywowr]

Thanks guys!   

I love the cold professionalism of those. You sir are slowly threating to endanger the pedestal of pickdropper, as THE machine of a builder. Awesome stuff.

I hope not!  Maybe when I start being able to cram a Univibe in a 1590A in my sleep...then Pickdropper can worry.  He's the man!  Until then, I keep on learning how to do things better and easier each time.  I think we are all like that. 

I still love envirotex however this technique is great.  While waterslides are tough as it is, my personal color laser printer likes to leave dust residue on top of waterslide paper...marring an otherwise great decal.  I may try to do one of these laser etched plates and then run some 'tex over it to see how it comes out.  Still, if I need to "clear coat" something I am going to reach for the 'tex.

[micromegas]

I always knew I needed a laser... now I'm sure!!  Time to start saving

That finish is gorgeous!

A soon as I build some of the pcbs I've got on my desk I'm going to launch an expedition to your store.

[bcalla]

Let's hear it for consistency!  Looks like factory finish work.

[catfud]

That matte black finish is great -  nice design too. Good stuff.

[billstein]

Couple of questions.
1. Is this process expensive?
2. Did you cut the faceplates yourself?

[culturejam]

That's a great look, man. Very professional and clean looking.

And I love the Bladerunner font. 

[rullywowr]

Couple of questions.
1. Is this process expensive?
2. Did you cut the faceplates yourself?

The LaserMAX material is a little pricey - I just got a 12"x24" sheet of it for $16 plus shipping.  The expensive part is the laser engraver itself (or at least having access to one as I do  ).  Getting your own engraver can run from about $500 for a cheap one up to tens of thousands of dollars.  I think this one cost around 30k!     And yes, I cut these myself.  Prior to this, I have been working with acrylic, and I tried using some 1/8" black acrylic to make the same plate but it was just too thick.  In addition, I tried to fill in the black acrylic engraving with white acrylic paint and it turned out crappy.  I said "screw it" and picked up the LaserMAX material.  I ordered white/black, silver/black, and bright silver/black (which this is).

You can take a standard Inkscape drawing and run it through the engraver, although CorelDRAW is the preferred program.  I actually converted an Inkscape file into CorelDRAW to make these.

Next time I do a faceplate, I will try and take a video and post it so you can see how the process works.  Basically, the laser will engrave all the text and graphics first (raster it is called).  After the raster is done, it will switch to "vector cut" mode and cut out everything...including all the holes for the pot shafts, stomp switch, led, and the entire plate itself.  It's pretty amazing to watch.  In the software, you just draw as normal but anything you want to have vector cut, you just set the line thickness to "hairline" or 0.001"...then the engraver knows whether to cut or engrave...or both.

When complete, it just drops out of the stock.  Clean it up if required, and put it on your enclosure.  When you bolt the hardware down it secures it.  This plate took about 3-4 minutes or less.  It's the setup, graphic design, and ensuring you have the laser settings dialed in which takes the most time with any laser engraving.

That's a great look, man. Very professional and clean looking.

And I love the Bladerunner font. 

Thanks CJ!  It's actually the font from "Metal Gear Solid" but it sure does look like blade runner!