Clear coat: acrylic laqcuer versus epoxy resin (e.g Envirotex). experiences?

[pickdropper]

Dave,  I dont get it running down the sides anymore, I can just about get the perfect amount everytime.  If I realise theres a little too much i use the stirring stick and scoop off 1cm along the edge, so it never gets the chance to run down the sides.

The last 8  pours have been pretty much perfect, the best i've done.

The envirotex is noticably clearer when i've mixed it when warmed, and much less bubbles when applied.

Very cool.  I may give that a go on my next pour.  I've oven cured epoxy a ton of times after mixing, but never preheated it.  Thanks for the tip.

[Gledison]

Does anyone know how to get Envirotex in Germany or similar product?
There is an epoxy resin by Toolcraft that could be similar to envirotex, i will give it a try on the weekend anyways, but would be better to start with the original envirotex...
Danke!!

[TNblueshawk]

This was my text tutorial. I wish I would have gone back and added pics but just never got around to it.

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541&hilit=envirotex+tutorial

This is the jig thread

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36406&hilit=envirotex+jig

[Gledison]

This was my text tutorial. I wish I would have gone back and added pics but just never got around to it.

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541&hilit=envirotex+tutorial

This is the jig thread

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36406&hilit=envirotex+jig

hey man! good idea with the jig.  i have a reason now to buy a new pair of shoes..eheh
look, after reading your tutorial (great btw), im wondering if would not be easier to drill all the holes after the pouring. i could print the same decal with the drill holes points on a transparent slide and adjust on the enclosure... What do you thinkg? or is difficult to drill over the epoxy?
thanks for sharing mate!

[TNblueshawk]

It's not difficult to drill through the epoxy at at all but the issue is really drilling into the decal and into the metal and not pulling that decal with the drill bit. I've always just been to scared to do it I suppose. Before I did that I would drill the holes in the metal first, put the decal on and then use painters tape inside the enclosure and plug it up basically. Then if you drill after you are only drilling through the epoxy and that is it.

Since drill bits pull up debris as I got close to the edges of the hole I would reverse the drill just as a precaution. So say use a little smaller bit than the hold size, drill it out. Step up on the bit, reverse the drill and hope for the best. 

Keep in mind I've not done this but this is how I would do it and thought about it many times.

Also, Parks Glaze is the same as Envirotex. Not sure if they might have that where you are at.

[neve1272]

just to put my 2 cents in
since going to envirotex and juansolo tutorial, im much happier with my build wife is happy to (she hate the rattle can fumes even in the garage )

[billstein]

This was my text tutorial. I wish I would have gone back and added pics but just never got around to it.

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541&hilit=envirotex+tutorial

This is the jig thread

http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=36406&hilit=envirotex+jig

hey man! good idea with the jig.  i have a reason now to buy a new pair of shoes..eheh
look, after reading your tutorial (great btw), im wondering if would not be easier to drill all the holes after the pouring. i could print the same decal with the drill holes points on a transparent slide and adjust on the enclosure... What do you thinkg? or is difficult to drill over the epoxy?
thanks for sharing mate!

I don't have to much experience, but I did learn something from the first box I did. I'm in the process of putting together a Lavache, I drilled the box and painted it, then put a waterslide decal on and finally the Envirotex. I cut the waterslide where the holes in the box were and taped it on the inside, after letting it cure for 4 days I drilled out the Enviro. The bigger holes I was able to use a step bit and it didn't lift the Enviro at all. There was one small hole for the 3mm LED and where I had to use a regular bit and that did lift the Enviro. I think this might be one of the reasons Juan and Cleggy hide the LEDS under the decals, the holes are to small for a step bit. So there doesn't seem to be a problem, just make sure you use the right tool.

[Gledison]

In the Envirotex website, there is a "flood coat calculator" : http://eti-usa.com/Calculator.html
Adding the full dimensions of a (e.g) 1590b it gives ca. 22 mL of resin.
Do you guys that coat all enclosure could confirm this?
Thanks

[juansolo]

I don't have to much experience, but I did learn something from the first box I did. I'm in the process of putting together a Lavache, I drilled the box and painted it, then put a waterslide decal on and finally the Envirotex. I cut the waterslide where the holes in the box were and taped it on the inside, after letting it cure for 4 days I drilled out the Enviro. The bigger holes I was able to use a step bit and it didn't lift the Enviro at all. There was one small hole for the 3mm LED and where I had to use a regular bit and that did lift the Enviro. I think this might be one of the reasons Juan and Cleggy hide the LEDS under the decals, the holes are to small for a step bit. So there doesn't seem to be a problem, just make sure you use the right tool.

Absolutely right, that's why we started hiding them. You can't reliably use a proper drill bit through Envirotex as it'll always try and lift it by design. A stepper bit is the only way and if it's anything like ours, they start at 4mm. We don't hide 5mm LEDs when we use them, they get popped through with the stepper.

[hoodoo]

Gledison, you're thinking too hard brother  just give it a go. I use throw away shot glasses, I measure using the directions on each bottle as an indicator, they are the same. In the shot glasses I mentioned it is about 10mm in depth, when mixed together, more than enough to coat the top of a pedal. Don't pour it all on, tease it to the edges, if you need more, put a little more on. It makes sense what juansolo said about heating the product, as it has been hot as hell in Aussie lately, and my last 2 pours had hardly any bubbles at all while curing and came out perfect. Good luck mate

[Gledison]

Gledison, you're thinking too hard brother  just give it a go. I use throw away shot glasses, I measure using the directions on each bottle as an indicator, they are the same. In the shot glasses I mentioned it is about 10mm in depth, when mixed together, more than enough to coat the top of a pedal. Don't pour it all on, tease it to the edges, if you need more, put a little more on. It makes sense what juansolo said about heating the product, as it has been hot as hell in Aussie lately, and my last 2 pours had hardly any bubbles at all while curing and came out perfect. Good luck mate

hehehe, thinking is the only think i still can do properly
naaa, i just want to get the right technique before doing. Im still strugling in getting a similar product in germany. there are so many options for 2k epoxy resins that im getting even more confused...

[Gledison]

I don't have to much experience, but I did learn something from the first box I did. I'm in the process of putting together a Lavache, I drilled the box and painted it, then put a waterslide decal on and finally the Envirotex. I cut the waterslide where the holes in the box were and taped it on the inside, after letting it cure for 4 days I drilled out the Enviro. The bigger holes I was able to use a step bit and it didn't lift the Enviro at all. There was one small hole for the 3mm LED and where I had to use a regular bit and that did lift the Enviro. I think this might be one of the reasons Juan and Cleggy hide the LEDS under the decals, the holes are to small for a step bit. So there doesn't seem to be a problem, just make sure you use the right tool.

Absolutely right, that's why we started hiding them. You can't reliably use a proper drill bit through Envirotex as it'll always try and lift it by design. A stepper bit is the only way and if it's anything like ours, they start at 4mm. We don't hide 5mm LEDs when we use them, they get popped through with the stepper.

Sorry, guys, dont think i understood properly
so, with the 3mm LED hole, shall i leave the decal intact? after pouring the resin, how do you drill than the 3mm with a regular bit?
Cheers

[alanp]

Absolutely right, that's why we started hiding them. You can't reliably use a proper drill bit through Envirotex as it'll always try and lift it by design. A stepper bit is the only way and if it's anything like ours, they start at 4mm. We don't hide 5mm LEDs when we use them, they get popped through with the stepper.

Would you be able to drill it out from the back of the box? I don't know what you could rest the box on that would not damage the surface (maybe be careful and buff it out?), but if I'm understanding this right, then the bit would be trying to lift the aluminium, and it can do that as much as it likes.

[juansolo]

Nope if you go through from the back you have to put pressure on that'd lift it.

We've tried everything and unless your stepper starts at 3mm, you're boned.

We leave the decal intact and pour. Then we do nothing except locat the LED in the hole behind the decal. Usually leaving a little bit of a gap so it doesn't press up against it.

[billstein]

Nope if you go through from the back you have to put pressure on that'd lift it.

We've tried everything and unless your stepper starts at 3mm, you're boned.

We leave the decal intact and pour. Then we do nothing except locat the LED in the hole behind the decal. Usually leaving a little bit of a gap so it doesn't press up against it.

Do you usually leave a clear spot in your decal where the LED will be, or do you let it shine through the colors of the design?