First DIY project. Probably some really silly questions to follow:

[davidnlsw]

tayda is really good....link at top

Wow, tayda is great. I've been going through their stock and they have pretty much everything I need for this build.

For simplicity's sake I would like to order as much as possible from only 1 or 2 places. Tayda doesn't seem to have a "5v1 Zener Diode" (which is D7 in the build I'm working on).

Would it be okay to substitute that diode for a 1N4728 zener or something like that?
*edit* realized the 1N4728 couldn't handle the wattage, I think? So perhaps a 1N4746A zener?

[pickdropper]

If you are familiar with Mouser and Mouser, those are great places to buy parts.

Tayda has better pricing for some things, but the quality is somewhat hit or miss.  I recommend testing the parts from there before using them (whenever possible, of course).

[das234]

You may as well get used to this level of help around here, it's just phenomenal.  The downside is that you'll need to keep this in mind as you gaze at pedals that only wizards could have built.  I try not to complain too much, but some nights I just cry myself to sleep knowing that my case etches look more like a shotgun blast than artwork 

Welcome aboard!

Or in haveyouseenhim's case, the artwork might actually BE a shotgun blast.

[das234]

2 more things.

Check tayda again for that 5.1v Zener diode, I'm sure they have them.

Also, for what it's worth, when I get a giant baggie of components I make sure to label the capacitors uniformly for simplicity's sake.  If they aren't already labeled this way, I write the value in pf on the ceramic disk caps, nf on the film caps and uf on the electrolytics.  That's how I organize them on my inventory spreadsheet too.  It's just easier for me to keep them straight.

[brucer]

Hi David.

I'm new to this too. Coincidentally, I've also just collected all the parts for a Yellow Shark build on one of Haberdasher's boards.  Since I'm new to electronics and pedal building I may not be the best reference, but a couple of things I'd add to the discussion so far:

- Before ordering parts, I make notes on what types of capacitors I need to get.  The first clue is the capacitor value.  As was mentioned earlier, pF usually means ceramic caps, nF usually means box/film caps and uF are typically electrolytic caps.  However, also have a look at the layout diagram.  Especially at Madbean, the electrolytic caps are illustrated with a "+" sign on the positive solder pad, box caps are rectangular and ceramic caps are elliptical.
- Small Bear uses "mF" instead of "uF", but they're the same thing.
- If you browse websites by the type of cap, the units might not be what you're expecting, so keep a conversion chart handy (I use the same one noted earlier http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html).
- always check your resistor vales with a multimeter (they don't always come labelled.
- always socket your IC chips and transistors (so you don't fry them when soldering and maybe for swapping different ones in).

For what it's worth, based on chat in this forum and elsewhere, I been sourcing parts as follows:

Bitches Love My Switches:
3PDT switches
toggle switches
Neutrik, 1/4" and DC jacks

Smallbear Electronics:
Specialized parts:
electrolytic caps
trannies
IC's
diodes
pots (sometimes)

Mammoth Electronics:
pots (if name brand)
powdercoated, drilled boxes

Mouser:
parts I can't find elsewhere (I'm in Canada and shipping seems expensive.  Otherwise I might buy more here)

Tayda:
resistors
non-electrolytic caps
trannies (if name brand)
IC's (if name brand)
diodes
knobs
sockets
pots (if name brand)

Hope that helps.  Good luck with your build.

Bruce.

[davidnlsw]

2 more things.

Check tayda again for that 5.1v Zener diode, I'm sure they have them.

Also, for what it's worth, when I get a giant baggie of components I make sure to label the capacitors uniformly for simplicity's sake.  If they aren't already labeled this way, I write the value in pf on the ceramic disk caps, nf on the film caps and uf on the electrolytics.  That's how I organize them on my inventory spreadsheet too.  It's just easier for me to keep them straight.

Would this be the zener diode I'm looking for? I was paying attention to the numbers at the beginning, not the voltage rating of the diode, I realized.

Do you just use a fine point sharpie to label your caps?

[davidnlsw]

...
Hope that helps.  Good luck with your build.

Bruce.

Thanks for all the useful info, Bruce. Hope to see a successful build thread for your Yellow Shark soon!

[AntKnee]

I am in nearly the same situation, except I'm building a Low Rider. I have built a few byoc kits and am embarking on my first adventure sourcing all the parts for the build. I went through the same confusioon with the caps. Everything else was fairly easy to figure out and locate. I have found some of the information in this thread helpful, so I also thank everyone for their willingness to help. Don't be surprised to find some more noob questions from me in another thread.

[das234]

Would this be the zener diode I'm looking for? I was paying attention to the numbers at the beginning, not the voltage rating of the diode, I realized.

Do you just use a fine point sharpie to label your caps?
[/quote]
That's the one I was thinking of.  I've used them before.

I keep the parts in the little baggies and I just write on the baggies under the original labeling.  Then I store my stuff in Plano style tackle box trays to keep it organized.  There's at least one thread out there on how to store your parts if you're interested.  It won't be long before you have a mountain of them.

[davidnlsw]

That's the one I was thinking of.  I've used them before.

I keep the parts in the little baggies and I just write on the baggies under the original labeling.  Then I store my stuff in Plano style tackle box trays to keep it organized.  There's at least one thread out there on how to store your parts if you're interested.  It won't be long before you have a mountain of them.

So with diodes, you only need to pay attention to the voltage, not the numbers at the beginning? That's just a part number or something?

I'm planning my run to the store to look at tackle boxes, etc even now

[das234]

The part numbers are not as important as the voltage.  The different part numbers account for things like different tolerances and maximum wattage.  Tayda's are 1w max, 5% tolerance and, as far as I know ought to work with any of the projects on here.  Someone more knowledgeable can feel free to weigh in on that.

The boxes I use are the Plano model 3600 or 3700 (whichever is bigger) trays with the little movable dividers.  I keep resistors in one box, capacitors in another, ICs in another, etc.  It works great for me.

[davidnlsw]

Well I just placed an order through Taydo for all the pieces I will need to put this build together! I already ordered the PCB and I am waiting to hear back from Pedalpartsplus regarding the enclosure.

I have a BYOC Bluesbreaker on my board now, so I'd like to build the Honey Bee in a 125B with top mounted jacks so they can sit right next to each other.

Once all the parts arrive, I'll start a build thread. Thank you so much for all the help everyone!

-David

[davidnlsw]

Alright, I got my haberdasher etched PCB and all the parts from Tayda in today. I'm ready to start building!

Here comes a stupid question:

Which side of the etched board should I mount the parts on?

[GermanCdn]

You solder the components to the side with the copper trace, so the components get mounted on the bare side (no trace).

[davidnlsw]

Thanks, sir.