Help with my Honey Bee (1590A by Jon Patton)

[brand0nized]

Just completed my first build. It's a Honey Bee with Jon S Patton's mini Layout. I flipped it in Photoshop to check the soldering on the other side.

I plugged it in, no sound. Then I went back, checked all the traces, still no sound.

I get a buzz when I touch the volume pot's lugs and the big 1uf cap on the bottom, but that's about it.

I went with 1n4007's for all 3 diodes on there (I forgot why), which are the ones on the Yellow Shark, but tagboardeffect's layout says to use 1n4001. Would that be a problem?

The Q1 transistor is a 2N5457 like the Yellow Shark, but I saw other values on other layouts from different sites.

IC is a CA3130EZ, not sure what EZ means.

I'm 95% sure that my resistor values are correct, but my resistor color bands don't match the ones on Jon's layout. I haven't learned to read the color codes yet, but I took em straight out of the little baggies the came in before I soldered each one individually, so I'm fairly sure they're correct.

Also, what is the likelihood of frying a part with my soldering iron? I was careful to not touch the leads too long with it, but at some point, the surrounding solder blobs frosted white, but it went away.

Please help me

[midwayfair]

This was a challenging first perfboard build, especially because it's one of the last layouts I haven't gone back and redone. In fact, I just spotted a couple mistakes on my layout that I must not have fixed after building it, so I'm going to pull it from the archive until I get a chance to redo it. But it's very fixible.

I'm going to refer to this schematic for the values:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/YellowShark/docs/YellowShark.pdf

Anyway, to fix my mistakes: run a jumper from the 9V to that 5.6K resistor coming off of Q1. Another mistake I made is that Q1 is backwards on the layout (gate should be on the right). Sorry about that! That would definitely be an issue!

From there, we'll just tackle it like any other debug.

Get out your multimeter and take voltages at the 9V in, each pin of IC1, and each pin of Q1.

Use an audio probe and probe the following places to narrow down the problem:
-Op amp: pin 3, pin 2, pin 6
-The junction of R8, D3, and D4 (the edge where your diodes are hanging off) and then the other side of R8.
-The gate of the FET. Datasheet here if you're not sure which is the gate.
-The drain of the FET.

The debug help thread has instructions for taking voltages and using an audio probe if you haven't used these tools before (and since this is your first build, you probably haven't!). Take your time and don't get frusrated. If for some reason you don't have a multimeter ... get one soon! Heh, but actually, the audio probe can be done with parts you already have lying around, so definitely do that. In fact, you don't even have to dismantle a cable -- I just use alligator clips to connect the ground and hold a capacitor.

I apologize again for not revisiting this layout before making the archive downloadable.

[brand0nized]

Woah awesome! Thanks for the quick and thorough response! I'll check on it when I'm back in time, thank you so much!

Sent from my LT22i using Tapatalk

[Matt]

Is the orientation correct on the 100uf cap in row I (vertical).  Can't tell for sure but it looks to be backwards or possibly the leads are touching. 

[brand0nized]

Is the orientation correct on the 100uf cap in row I (vertical).  Can't tell for sure but it looks to be backwards or possibly the leads are touching.

If I remember correctly the orientation is correct. It looks weird because I wanted up bend the cap a certain way so it doesn't stand so tall

[brand0nized]

This was a challenging first perfboard build

What makes this a difficult first build, if I may ask.

[midwayfair]

This was a challenging first perfboard build

What makes this a difficult first build, if I may ask.

Just that it was a tight (and slightly disorganized ...) layout with quite a few components on perfboard and meant for a 1590A.

I think that cap is backwards -- but it's easy enough to check. The side with the - sign and grey stripe should be connected to the ground. You can use your multimeter and check continuity.

[brand0nized]

Get out your multimeter and take voltages at the 9V in, each pin of IC1, and each pin of Q1.

Here are my readings:

-9V - ~9.13V

-Pin1 - 0.04V
-Pin2 - 0.02~0.03
-Pin3 - 0.42
-Pin4 - 0 (to ground)
-Pin5 - 0.04
-Pin6 - 9.09
-Pin7 - 9.10
-Pin8 - 0.06

-Gate - 3.11
-Source - 2.36
-Drain - 2.37

Do they look okay?

Working on making an audio probe now...

[brand0nized]

-Op amp: pin 3, pin 2, pin 6
-The junction of R8, D3, and D4 (the edge where your diodes are hanging off) and then the other side of R8.
-The gate of the FET.

Probe results with a frequency generator:

Pin 3: Clean tone
Pin 2: Buzzy tone
Pin 6: More buzzy and crackily tone

Junction (R8, D3, D4): Buzzy tone

Other side of R8: Buzzy tone

Gate: Buzzy tone

Signal Generator -> Input: Buzzy tone, the knobs don't affect the tone in any way

Guitar -> Input: Consistent buzz. Can hear a little bit of clean guitar sound, knobs don't do anything

[midwayfair]

Do they look okay?

Working on making an audio probe now...

Nope. Pin6 should not be 9V -- and since it's almost exactly the same voltage as pin7, I'm going to say that your multimeter just didn't completely settle and that they're shorted. Check for a short between pins 6 and 7 (and all the components touching them), using your multimeter's continuity setting (beep) if you have to to make sure it's not connected to the 9V supply.

We'll tackle more stuff once we sort that out. You're losing signal between the input and output of the op amp, so we'll focus on that first.

[brand0nized]

Nope. Pin6 should not be 9V -- and since it's almost exactly the same voltage as pin7, I'm going to say that your multimeter just didn't completely settle and that they're shorted. Check for a short between pins 6 and 7 (and all the components touching them), using your multimeter's continuity setting (beep) if you have to to make sure it's not connected to the 9V supply.

We'll tackle more stuff once we sort that out. You're losing signal between the input and output of the op amp, so we'll focus on that first.

My multimeter doesn't beep for some reason, but the manual says to put it in resistance mode to check continuity.

When the leads aren't touching anything, the meter shows "1", so I assume "1" means no connection, and "0" means no resistance.

I get continuity between [Pin 6, R6, D1, D2, Drive 2] and [Pin 7, R16, R15, R12, C13, D5]. These are all things connected to Pins 6 and 7 according to the madbean schematic.

[midwayfair]

These should be the voltages:

1 = .07    8 = 4.5
2 = 4.5    7 = 9
3 = ~3    6 = 4.5
4 = 0.00  5 = 0.00

Also, I think I spotted another problem. I was trying to figure out why pin 3 was so low -- it looks like you used a 1.5K for R17 (should be 31.6K). That's setting your bias voltage super low. If you look closely at the layout, the "3" in that 31.6K is hanging off the end of the resistor. It was probably hard to see. You can use a 33K or 30K, whatever's handy. Desoldering stuff sucks on perf, sorry I didn't catch it sooner.

[brand0nized]

These should be the voltages:

1 = .07    8 = 4.5
2 = 4.5    7 = 9
3 = ~3    6 = 4.5
4 = 0.00  5 = 0.00

Also, I think I spotted another problem. I was trying to figure out why pin 3 was so low -- it looks like you used a 1.5K for R17 (should be 31.6K). That's setting your bias voltage super low. If you look closely at the layout, the "3" in that 31.6K is hanging off the end of the resistor. It was probably hard to see. You can use a 33K or 30K, whatever's handy. Desoldering stuff sucks on perf, sorry I didn't catch it sooner.

Thanks! I will check on these soon. Good thing Tayda only sells in bulk, I have some extra resistors.

Is you say the reading is supposed to be 0.00V can it be around there (~0.04) or does it have to be absolutely 0?