Swamprat build

[selfdestroyer]

This was a layout Brian gave out of the Plexi-Drive like circuit. I really like the low gain sound of this and it really does sound like a JMT45. It adds a nice drive to my Twin Reverb.

I tried a few new things with this build. I tried etching again since the punch in momentary switch etch went well. I am really happy how this came out. I used a Rustoleum Metallic black and wet sanded off the logo and control labels then I shot it with a matte clear a few times. I also tried out the Red Fresnel Lens' since I snagged a few of them on my last Mouser order to try. I like how they look and may stick with them. I used a 3mm on here but I can definitely see they 5mm will look cool also.

[hoodoo]

That's fantastic etching mate, those fine line words are perfect. Very nice all round, looks just like a little amp 

[jubal81]

That is some next-level badassery. On top of perfection inside, the etching and paint are totally seamless. Any chance you consider doing a "how-to" thread?

[Stomptown]

Whoa dude! That etch is amaing! Great work all around...

[micromegas]

What an elegant and beautiful build man! Could you throw some light over the etching process? Laser etched? Reverse etching? It looks astounding...

[selfdestroyer]

Thanks so much guys. I'll just do a list of process as I work on a tutorial. Its been trial and error. I am far from feeling super comfortable with this. I am going to do a few more this weekend and will definitely do a picture tutorial then and add it to my blog. Until then, here are some basic steps I took. Hope it makes sense since I am writing this at 1:00am lol

• Wet sand enclosure top with 600 grit
• Photoshop some art and text. Here is the one I used for this http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Madbean-Swaprat-etch.pdf
• Print out on my HP LaserJet Professional P 1102w with the print density set to 5 and on HP Premium Glossy Presentation Paper http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/HP-Paper/Color-Laser-Presentation-paper/Q2547A
• Used my trusty Black and Decker iron my wife gave me for my bench and ironed the design to the enclosure. TAKE YOUR TIME and careful since the aluminum enclosure gets hot quickly.
• Let Enclosure cool for 10-15 minutes then submerge in water to break up the paper.
• Remove as much paper by hand then I use the green scrubby side of a dish sponge to remove all the paper. Take your time and do not press hard or it will remove the toner. You will get the feel for it over time.
• I then use blue painters tape to tape up all the sides of the enclosure.
• Setup 2 containers, one of water and one of the Ferric chloride solution
• I then submerge just the face into a plastic container of Ferric chloride solution that I grab from Radio Shack (only because its the only place here in Fresno CA that carries it
• I think one of the keys is the slow dunking and movement up and down into the Ferric chloride solution. I think it helps to break off the etched away aluminum and also to make a consistent etch. This is just an observation.
• I mainly keep dunking it in the Ferric chloride until it looks etched. but like I said, I am just learning this and I take it out to dunk in the water to look at the etch. If you think it needs more time to etch then keep dunking it in the ferric chloride
• When done, I wash off the enclosure and use a sponge scrub to remove all the residuals from the enclosure.
• Paint enclosure then wet sand with 1000 grit with a flat block until raised areas are aluminum.

I'll try to answer any questions.
Cody

[muddyfox]

I've done a few etches (never a reverse etch, mind you) rather successfully. The only thing that ever worked for me was PnP blue but for one it's certainly not cheap getting it from overseas and two it was far from perfect. It's really sensitive to temperature and it would either not stick enough or smudge.
I've tried all sorts of printers on all sorts of paper (OHP, sticker backing, photo, magazine glossy) and never would it stick properly to the enclosure. I've tried rough enclosures, I've tried sanding for half an hour up to 1000 wet mirror polish and it. just. wouldn't. stick. properly.
I'm starting to think it may be my iron (just a regular clothes iron, steam off) but with all the hassle it's just not worth it anymore. I barely have time to solder, this kind of tippy-toeing and river dance needed to get it to consistently work just doesn't fit into my life schedule. I barely even play anymore since I started soldering... 

[selfdestroyer]

I'm starting to think it may be my iron (just a regular clothes iron, steam off) but with all the hassle it's just not worth it anymore.

That's all I use is a home use Black and Decker iron turned all the way up and steam off. I really think its a matter of the glossy paper I use and the length of ironing.

[mcalaff]

Gorgeous! Nice, very nice!

[Cortexturizer]

This is gorgeous. Absolute perfection. Way the go man!
I have been interested in this circuit for a while, gotta make it someday. People say it cleans up VERY nicely with the guitar volume knob. Would you say it does?

[mcalaff]

I made only one etch project and and was satisfactory. Now i plan to make a reverse etching and as you say I think the paper influences. Provably the finish of enclosure influences too. Surely a fine finish is not the best for transfer the toner to enclosure.

[muddyfox]

Surely a fine finish is not the best for transfer the toner to enclosure.

There are people who get perfect finishes with mirror finish sanding, something about the face being almost perfectly flat and heating up equally as opposed to hot/cold spots when the face is not perfectly flat?

[kothoma]

Wow! Great build, I really love it. Demos by any chance?

[madbean]

I've done a few etches (never a reverse etch, mind you) rather successfully. The only thing that ever worked for me was PnP blue but for one it's certainly not cheap getting it from overseas and two it was far from perfect. It's really sensitive to temperature and it would either not stick enough or smudge.
I've tried all sorts of printers on all sorts of paper (OHP, sticker backing, photo, magazine glossy) and never would it stick properly to the enclosure. I've tried rough enclosures, I've tried sanding for half an hour up to 1000 wet mirror polish and it. just. wouldn't. stick. properly.
I'm starting to think it may be my iron (just a regular clothes iron, steam off) but with all the hassle it's just not worth it anymore. I barely have time to solder, this kind of tippy-toeing and river dance needed to get it to consistently work just doesn't fit into my life schedule. I barely even play anymore since I started soldering... 

You need to sand with a lower grit to get it to transfer. The surface should be visually scratched...this allows the toner to grab onto the surface when heated through.

[muddyfox]

You need to sand with a lower grit to get it to transfer. The surface should be visually scratched...this allows the toner to grab onto the surface when heated through.

Trust me Brian, I've tried everything from 100 dry to 2000 wet, for some reason it hasn't made much of a difference. Mostly it's the paper that won't release the toner and/or not smudge at the same time.
It could also be due to toner at work, I'm at the mercy of the local refill place where we get the toner...