Okay, that's really the last time I try to solder chips ...

[midwayfair]

directly to the PCB.

Doesn't seem to matter what temperature I use, or how long I take between soldering each pin. 

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Was it a DIP or SMT chip?

I have soldered several SMT chips without problems. I have only ever done 1 DIP chip directly to board. Didn't have an issue. Soldered at 700F too.

I use the 3 count method. Tin the iron (must be a clean and tinned iron.... MUST), apply iron and solder to the joint, count out 3 seconds, remove iron.

If the joint doesnt look good, I move on and come back later.

[pickdropper]

3 seconds seems awfully long to hold the iron to the joint.  You probably won't hurt most things, but I tend to err on the side of caution.

I usually solder at 720, but I tend to get in and get out as quickly as possible.

[midwayfair]

I use the 3 count method. Tin the iron (must be a clean and tinned iron.... MUST), apply iron and solder to the joint, count out 3 seconds, remove iron.

I don't even wait that long, maybe one second at most, then I don't solder anything else on the chip for like 30 seconds, while holding it in front of the fan. I started premelting the solder and then just stick it onto the solder pad. I've double checked continuity with my meter so I know it's adhered, and the solder joint looks okay.

I figure sockets are cheap and desoldering is annoying as hell.

The thing is, for a short while last year I wasn't having any problems with it. I got away with soldering dual op amps, PT2399s, and some other stuff while using my cheapie Weller, but I've fried every chip I've ever tried to solder starting about the time I got the Hakko station, despite being able to set it a less heat. Every once in a while I get the urge to try out soldering the chip directly again and I invariably end up performing surgery on the PCB.

[muddyfox]

I know that you are way too experienced for this comment (this is likely going to be  but I can't help it) and that Hakko is supposed to be OK in this regard but could it be that you are not frying it with heat but with ESD?

[RobA]

I know that you are way too experienced for this comment (this is likely going to be  but I can't help it) and that Hakko is supposed to be OK in this regard but could it be that you are not frying it with heat but with ESD?

ESD is a good question to bring up. It is cold and the furnaces are on and the air is dry. I use a Hakko and I solder at 400°C because I use RoHS solder and I haven't killed a chip since I moved to the Hakko. But, I've got no carpet in the house and that may be part of why I've never killed one with a shock either. (It should be noted that I am not a skilled solderer, so it isn't skill that's kept me from killing chips. I think they are just really pretty hard to kill from heat.)

[alanp]

I tend to stick to sockets because I really, really, really do not want to risk having to desolder even a 8 pin IC

[Govmnt_Lacky]

@Jon

Are you melting the solder to the pad then, re-heating it while slipping the IC leg into the pad hole?

I insert all of the IC legs into the PCB pad holes, place the pre-tinned soldering tip against the pad's copper AND the IC leg, immediately insert the solder on the opposite side (as solder will flow TOWARDS the heat), count to 3, remove both the iron tip and solder.

[midwayfair]

I know that you are way too experienced for this comment

Not at all. I didn't even consider it, and I fried a couple CMOS chips (including a 3101) not too long ago because I wasn't careful.

My soldering is actually not very good, except when I'm building for others or working on something that will be on my board ... I tend to be a lot more meticulous when I know it's leaving my house.

Are you melting the solder to the pad then, re-heating it while slipping the IC leg into the pad hole?

no, no, no.

... Would anyone actually do that? Seems like a nightmare ...

[pickdropper]

Jon, what temp do you have it set at.

It may not sound intuitive, but you may have better luck setting the temp higher.  It can often reduce the dwell time (although it doesn't sound like you dwell that long as it is).

[Cortexturizer]

This is interesting, I have never ever soldered a chip before, and now with the Sharkfin [as if the pedal wasn't troublesome enough] I soldered 3 of them. No problems. And I haven't really took any precautions. I am using an Ersa 15W soldering iron. I love that soldering iron, I LOVE it.

[midwayfair]

Jon, what temp do you have it set at.

It may not sound intuitive, but you may have better luck setting the temp higher.  It can often reduce the dwell time (although it doesn't sound like you dwell that long as it is).

I've tried a lot of temps between ~400F and 750F. I don't go above 750 on anything because the solder does not react well (it dries out and gets cruddy). Last night was something like 600F, which was the temp I could get a sort of stringy pull of solder and get it to adhere to the pad almost immediately upon contact.

I don't want to make it sound like I fry EVERY chip, but I don't seem to be able to bat 1000 on it. I managed 5 out of 6 on a Lowrider over the weekend for instance ... but fried the 074. Last night I fried at least the TL074 in the Stage Fright (I'm not sure what else I fried because I didn't think properly and clipped everything, instead of just replacing the TL074 first ... I didn't realize that one of the op amps was the Vb for everything, so I thought they were ALL fried when I measured voltages. The 13700s might have been fine in other words).

[lars]

I'm with the idea of some kind of ESD killing your chips, not your temperature, and the soldering iron is probably at fault. This document shows you how to test your iron, something we all should do periodically :
http://www.esda.org/documents/openforumhandtoolsprass08.pdf

[rullywowr]

Lots of good information.  You really shouldn't have much a problem if you get in/get out quickly.  I have some thoughts here:

1)  I wonder if your iron is grounded/esd safe?  You mentioned you were using a 2 prong adapter for your amp...maybe your iron isn't grounded properly?  This was mentioned, but if it's a lower quality iron, not ESD safe, and/or not grounded this may be the issue.

2)  Like Pickdropper, I usually solder around 720F myself.  It is better to go a little hotter on the heat and be quick rather than bake the part.  Get in, get out quick.

3)  Sockets are cheap insurance and usually recommended (but you already know this )

4)  I used to prefer the classic Kester leaded "44" rosin solder (yellow label) but lately have been trying the leaded Kester 245 (this has the "no clean" flux).  Picked up a roll on eBay for $20.  Both are great choices in solder although I really like the no clean lately as it doesn't leave a bunch of gooey rosin on the boards.  I like the 0.031" size myself.  In any case, I like the leaded which flows easier IMO.

5)  I just got a couple desoldering irons and they have changed my life.  A bit expensive but so worth it!  My current desoldering rig is a Hakko 472D and it just rocks.  I keep it at around 740F and I find myself using it a lot more than I thought I would.  I can remove parts easily, ICs are no problem, and I find myself harvesting parts from junk builds or junk PCBs that were destined for the trash.  Don't know how I got along so long without it!

6)  When soldering IC's directly (no socket), I find it useful to try and do one pin on one side...wait a bit then do the opposite side.  For example on a 4558 or similar I will do say pin 1...wait a bit then do pin 6.  Then do pin 8, wait...and do pin 4.  This helps keep the heat from destroying the bonding wire internally.

[gtr2]

I'm on par with what rullywowr does.  I run my hakko at 725F and do a similar process.  For desoldering I have the cheaper Hakko 808 desoldering gun, works splendid.

I only socket IC's if I need to "experiment", other than that I now solder all IC's directly to the PCB.  I've yet to fry one though.  The ESD could be the culprit.  I don't worry as much about not socketing because I can quickly remove anything with the 808.  Yesterday, I just pulled 3 pcb pots out and swapped a resistor then soldered everything back up in around 2 minutes.  Before that task would take at least 15 minutes +, with the possibility of potentially damaging the board and or components.  While that doesn't help your IC fry situation per say, I do recommend looking into a desoldering gun for the amount of builds you do.

Josh