Zombii issues

[TurboT8er]

This is my first (and hopefully not last) project, and I'm currently having some trouble wiring everything in the 1590B box. Granted, I will be doing this over on a new enclosure due to some erroneous holes drilled, but I'd like to finish this one first. I'll number them to simplify things:

1. I bought a DPDT in stead of a 3PDT, so will I still be able to include the LED, or will I have to jumper the "SW" on the pcb to ground?

2. What 3PDT switch is everybody using? My DPDT is a Carling, and it sticks out nearly an inch. Is there one that this thing was designed to have?

3. I bought 2 stereo jacks rather than one mono and one stereo. What do I do with the extra terminal on the input jack?

4. More of a complaint than an issue. The pots are so close together that even these http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=644 interfere with each other. I soldered the pots on as evenly as possible, but even so, there are 2 or 3 that are minutely closer together than the others, and the knobs rub each other (no pun intended). Essentially, there could be an extra mm in between them.

Also, I noticed from several pictures that the original FF has the pcb oriented with the components facing inward, whereas the zombii has them facing opposite. This would be more ideal when keeping things from shorting out. Would it be possible to reverse the pcb so that the knobs are in the same sequence, but the board is flipped?

Thanks!

[alanp]

1. You could go with a Millenium Bypass setup, which would require a small addon PCB. I've never worked with these before, but they're designed to include an LED with DPDT stomps.

2. I'm a cheap bastard, I typically use Tayda 3PDT's.

3. The ring terminal on the input jack goes to the black lead on the battery snap (the red lead goes to the power jack, as per the Madbean wiring dgm.) The ring terminal on the output jack can be totally ignored.

4. I'd go with Davies 1900H clone knobs (Smallbear carry them, as do Tayda and most of the usual vendors.) They're the standard go-to knob for tight spacing.

[rullywowr]

Congratulations on your first build!

I will try to answer your questions.
1.  With a DPDT you will be able to bypass the effect, but will not be able to use a LED.  You can do some trickier wiring to a "millenium bypass" to use a DPDT with an LED but as it's your first project I would suggest just getting a 3PDT.
2.  Most people are using a common "china blue" type 3PDT stomp.  Check www.taydaelectronics.com or www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com for just two places you can get them.
3.   Using Stereo jacks all around is not a problem.   Just ignore the "ring" terminal on each.
4.  The Zombii is quite a tight build, so the knobs touching can be an issue.  Simple solution...use smaller knobs!  Also, it really helps when using PCB mounted pots to mount them in the enclosure first (so they are all level) and then solder the board to them.   Another method is to use a piece of thick cardboard, plastic etc...drilled out with the spacing you want and then attach the pots to that before soldering the PCB.  This makes it easy to get everything level and happy in the box.

Board orientation (especially from manufacturers) can be different.  Many DIY projects which use PCB mounted pots are usually fitted with the bottom (trace side) of the PCB on the back of the pots.  This means when you are looking at the board from the bottom you see the component (top) side.  This is a preferred way to make pedals because the pots have little protective covers (plastic) which the board bottom can rest against and not short out.  You could turn the board around the other way, paying attention to where the wires go, but then there would be a lot of offboard wiring (3 wires to each one) and you would still have to insulate the board bottom from shorting out on the enclosure cover.    Did I mention I really dislike offboard wiring? 

Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing your build.

[jimilee]

This is my first (and hopefully not last) project, and I'm currently having some trouble wiring everything in the 1590B box. Granted, I will be doing this over on a new enclosure due to some erroneous holes drilled and new components, but I'd like to finish this one first. I'll number them to simplify things:

1. I bought a DPDT in stead of a 3PDT, so will I still be able to include the LED, or will I have to jumper the "SW" on the pcb to ground?

2. What 3PDT switch is everybody using? My DPDT is a Carling, and it sticks out nearly an inch. Is there one that this thing was designed to have?

3. I bought 2 stereo jacks rather than one mono and one stereo. What do I do with the extra terminal on the input jack?

4. More of a complaint than an issue. The pots are so close together that even these http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=644 interfere with each other. I soldered the pots on as evenly as possible, but even so, there are 2 or 3 that are minutely closer together than the others, and the knobs rub each other (no pun intended). Essentially, there could be an extra mm in between them.

Also, I noticed from several pictures that the original FF has the pcb oriented with the components facing inward, whereas the zombii has them facing opposite. This would be more ideal when keeping things from shorting out. Would it be possible to reverse the pcb so that the knobs are in the same sequence, but the board is flipped?

Thanks!

1. You can use a dpdt no problem, but you won't be able to use an led with out extra circuitry, or not have true bypass. I did a google search for meillenium bypass with led.
2. Standard 3pdt from smallbear, mammoth or blms is what we are using, standard blue ones mostly.
3. Extra input on the stereo jack (sleeve) goes to the ground wire of a battery snap.
4. Takes practice, did you do a search for the zombii on the board? I used the standard small knobs, very similar to the ones on the fuzz factory. Drill press ( and maybe a dremel) in these situations is very helpful. If you left the wires long enough you can flip the board forward and use insulating foam tape to keep the solder side from shorting the board out.

[TurboT8er]

Thanks for the quick replies everybody. One more question. In regards to #1, if I decide to leave out the LED, would I just leave the SW hole on the pcb alone? It would just be like an electrical dead end, taking the resistor out of that circuit, right?

[jimilee]

Thanks for the quick replies everybody. One more question. In regards to #1, if I decide to leave out the LED, would I just leave the SW hole on the pcb alone? It would just be like an electrical dead end, taking the resistor out of that circuit, right?

Correct sir, it's just an offshoot of the +9v coming into the board.

[TurboT8er]

Finally finished today. As far as op-testing, all the knobs work, and it does indeed make fuzz, among other things. It does seem to be a bit (very) unstable as far as ungodly noises, but I guess that's what they're known for.

Here's some pics.

[TurboT8er]

Guess I have to resize every pic...

[rullywowr]

Looks great!  Congratulations on your build. 

As far as pictures go, I recommend getting a dropbox or photobucket account and uploading them there.  Then you can just link to them in your posts.  This way, they will be preserved for a long time and it makes it easier on the server for the forum (which is at a premium for space).  Sometimes pictures uploaded directly to the forum can disappear over time when maintenance is done etc.

[jkokura]

I totally thought this thread was going to be about the start of the zombie apocalypse. Carry on.

Jacob

[TurboT8er]

Looks great!  Congratulations on your build. 

As far as pictures go, I recommend getting a dropbox or photobucket account and uploading them there.  Then you can just link to them in your posts.  This way, they will be preserved for a long time and it makes it easier on the server for the forum (which is at a premium for space).  Sometimes pictures uploaded directly to the forum can disappear over time when maintenance is done etc.

Thanks, and will do.