Small Clone Chorus Help

[Stomptown]

Hey guys, I am just about finished designing a 1590B version of the Small Clone Chorus and was hoping to get a fresh set of eyes to make sure I did not miss anything when I drew the schematic. It should match the tonepad version found here:

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=97

I was also curious if the 1uF caps are in the audio path, and if so, if they need to be electrolytic or could be film instead???

Here is my schematic:


(FYI the overlapping lines are not connected unless there is a dot at the junction)
Any help/advice would be much appreciated . 

Thanks,
Jon

[Stomptown]

Bump! 

[Bret608]

I wish I could help! This looks like a job for Scruffie. I am stoked that you are doing this project. Sign me up already!

I am guessing that if those 1uf caps are in the audio path that using film would be a slight improvement in sound.

[Scruffie]

I wish I could help! This looks like a job for Scruffie. I am stoked that you are doing this project. Sign me up already!

I am guessing that if those 1uf caps are in the audio path that using film would be a slight improvement in sound.

Did I hear my name? 

1uF Films will be fine, no benefit other than life cycle. C17 could also be to get rid of the tant/elec. The 10uF following the 220uF in the power filtering isn't really necessary, i'd just go 47R, 100uF, 100nF.
If you're leaving room in the 1590B for battery (which I hope you are  ) you may wish to add a polarity protection diode.

Schematic looks okay at a glance to me.

Don't know if you'd want to add 3207 switching?

Don't forget on the layout to keep the LFO & Clock away from the audio path.

Edit: One more thing, while in the Tonepad schematic and the EHX reissue R13 is 20k, in the original factory schematic if you ask me it says 27k and now the original FET switching has been removed, I might add an input pull down resistor.

[jimilee]

Hooray another stomptown build is imminent!

[Stomptown]

I wish I could help! This looks like a job for Scruffie. I am stoked that you are doing this project. Sign me up already!

I am guessing that if those 1uf caps are in the audio path that using film would be a slight improvement in sound.

Did I hear my name? 

1uF Films will be fine, no benefit other than life cycle. C17 could also be to get rid of the tant/elec. The 10uF following the 220uF in the power filtering isn't really necessary, i'd just go 47R, 100uF, 100nF.
If you're leaving room in the 1590B for battery (which I hope you are  ) you may wish to add a polarity protection diode.

Schematic looks okay at a glance to me.

Don't know if you'd want to add 3207 switching?

Don't forget on the layout to keep the LFO & Clock away from the audio path.

Edit: One more thing, while in the Tonepad schematic and the EHX reissue R13 is 20k, in the original factory schematic if you ask me it says 27k and now the original FET switching has been removed, I might add an input pull down resistor.

Thanks Scruffie! I think I'll leave the electrolytics if film is no benefit sound wise (I'd already made my layout before I considered films).

I went ahead and added a polarity protection diode for those crazy enough to stuff a battery and this thing in a 1590B.   I think it can be done using closed jacks under the pcb. It would be a whole lot easier in a 125B though!

I would definitely like to add the 3207 switching option but I'm not really sure how to accomplish that. Vias? Any advice?

I also re-routed some of my traces to try to get the audio path away from LFO/Clock. I'm still pretty inexperienced though. Did I succeed?

[Scruffie]

I wish I could help! This looks like a job for Scruffie. I am stoked that you are doing this project. Sign me up already!

I am guessing that if those 1uf caps are in the audio path that using film would be a slight improvement in sound.

Did I hear my name? 

1uF Films will be fine, no benefit other than life cycle. C17 could also be to get rid of the tant/elec. The 10uF following the 220uF in the power filtering isn't really necessary, i'd just go 47R, 100uF, 100nF.
If you're leaving room in the 1590B for battery (which I hope you are  ) you may wish to add a polarity protection diode.

Schematic looks okay at a glance to me.

Don't know if you'd want to add 3207 switching?

Don't forget on the layout to keep the LFO & Clock away from the audio path.

Edit: One more thing, while in the Tonepad schematic and the EHX reissue R13 is 20k, in the original factory schematic if you ask me it says 27k and now the original FET switching has been removed, I might add an input pull down resistor.

Thanks Scruffie! I think I'll leave the electrolytics if film is no benefit sound wise (I'd already made my layout before I considered films).

I went ahead and added a polarity protection diode for those crazy enough to stuff a battery and this thing in a 1590B.   I think it can be done using closed jacks under the pcb. It would be a whole lot easier in a 125B though!

I would definitely like to add the 3207 switching option but I'm not really sure how to accomplish that. Vias? Any advice?

I also re-routed some of my traces to try to get the audio path away from LFO/Clock. I'm still pretty inexperienced though. Did I succeed?

I was crazy with Bajaman's FSB layout, stuck a charge pump with regulator under the board too, don't think i'd try that on this though.

It's 6AM and I haven't slept yet... that image just hurts my eyes right now i'm afraid 

To switch between 3007 and 3207 is actually a little different on the Small Clone to normal, you need to flip pins 4&5 of the 3007 to VD and pin 1 to gnd, and R9 and 22 as well. Change the 2N5087 to a 5088 and take its collector to 9V instead of Gnd and flip the diode. Look at beans boards (Current Lover, Pork Barrel, Aquaboy etc.) to see how he implements the jumpers. Ideally you'd power the BBD, Q1 and the Bias trim off an 8v2 zener used for shunt regulation but thinking about it... this might make it all a bit tricky to be practical