Kingslayer - No Sound

[Jmkrull]

Hello,

I am working on a kingslayer build and am running into problems which GeoFX debugging is pointing towards power problems, but I guess my question is more specific in regard to that. I have now tried to build this effect twice, with all new board (building two) and components minus pots, switches and battery terminal (DC was replaced). I have now run into the same problem on each. I get no sound at all, bypassed or not and no LED. I have tried doing one in true bypass configuration and the other in buffer, no change. Voltage was reading zero on the board. At this point, I feel like I may be missing something and I don't really know where else to look. I want to just give up. I have double checked my wiring and made sure there are no apparent shorts or miss-wiring. Does anyone have any suggestions or has run into anything similar on this project?

Thanks,
John

[jkokura]

Check to see if you're getting voltage at the DC Jack. At this point, I'd suspect the wiring to be the issue. Until you get voltage to the board, you won't have anything working.

Jacob

[Stomptown]

Don't give up! You will be extremely happy when you get this thing fired up! There are plenty of people here who are willing to help you through this build.

Are you getting 0v when you probe the 9V pad on the PCB?? If so I would suspect you have a wiring issue. I would start off by posting pics of the PCB (top and bottom side) and a shot of the entire build so someone can see your wiring.

Also check out these posts for some great info about getting help and building a testing rig (If you haven't already)

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=902.0
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1140.0
Welcome to the forum!

[Jmkrull]

Thank you everyone so far.

I think I may have an idea of what happened. Looking at the diagram, I wired the DC jack negative on the far right, the board and LED in what would be the top and the battery on the left. Looking at another diagram for wiring up jacks and switches:

http://www.guitar-mod.com/images/stomp_switching/NPN_LED_DC_jack.jpg

I may need to just flip the two positive lugs around and I may be good. This would explain why I ran into the same thing twice on two different boards with new components (or at least I'm hoping). I'll try this later today/tonight and post my findings.

Thanks for the help again.

[jkokura]

Close.

Looking at the diagram you posted, the negative of the DC jack is on the left - where the black wire connects. The 'top' point is the connection to the board, and the 'right' lug is the connection for the + side of the battery connection.

Jacob

[Jmkrull]

Close.

Looking at the diagram you posted, the negative of the DC jack is on the left - where the black wire connects. The 'top' point is the connection to the board, and the 'right' lug is the connection for the + side of the battery connection.

Jacob

I hear ya. Without a picture, I don't think it makes sense explaining it, but if you were to turn the one in the above so the black lead/weird tab is on the right hand side, i had the other two flipped. I'll try this and see if I get power, if not I'll change it back and see if there is something else.

[playpunk]

Plug your DC jack into your power source and probe it with the multimeter. I do it every time I wire something up. 3 times now... but hey, it's faster than undoing it.

[Jmkrull]

For real...

I'm going to make a test box now and save myself all this wiring around and headaches.

[Jmkrull]

Flipping it was it

I still have a dead effect though...

Dead in both bypass and engaged. LED comes on and off as it should, but the ICs get hot to the touch. I'm assuming I have a short somewhere on the board. Audio probe the best method for this?

[Stomptown]

I would inspect the PCB on top and bottom first and make sure there are no obvious solder bridges between pads. If the PCB is getting hot you could blow something. You could also have a "cold" solder joint. If you do a web search you can see what to look for. If you do find one just reflow the joint with your iron and fire it up again to see it it works. If you cannot see any bridges/cold joints go ahead and use an audio probe. Just make sure to put on some safety goggles in case things go wrong...