How to build and Use a Basic Testing Rig

[JeffdaMaori]

ooops not too sure how to attach pics here yet, there's more to get the idea.
Cheers

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[bigmufffuzzwizz]

ooops not too sure how to attach pics here yet, there's more to get the idea.
Cheers

Nice job! Great way to keep it simple!

[k.rock!]

ooops not too sure how to attach pics here yet, there's more to get the idea.
Cheers

Nice job! Great way to keep it simple!

Agreed! This looks very cool man, great job!

-Kaleb

[sgmezei]

Awesome video, every beginner should watch this (glad I did). I am going to build one and try and incorporate some sort of breadboard testingness for diode clipping.

[mandrewbot3k]

any thoughts on these?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062236

can i use prebonded wire from small bear for the test leads, or should i use some radioshack hookup wire since they'll be bending around a lot?

And just to clarify, the audio probe/film cap are in parallel with the board output?

[jkokura]

That's the way I do it, the parallel allows you to use both without having to use two different output jacks. Alternatively, you could put it on a switch. The cap keeps the signal from heading that direction anyway, so it doesn't give you any 'tone loss.'

Also, if you're ordering from smallbear anyway: Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=986

There's also a way to buy the alligator clips individually. That pack from Radio Shack would do fine if you needed something, but it's for a pack of ten. If you just need 3 or 4, buy them individually from Smallbear for .39 each. I advocate getting the pack of wired clips personally. The wire's already attached, it's durable, and now you have a bunch of extra wired alligator clips you can use for connecting other things together. Handy for testing random LED's that may or may not be burnt out, or attaching a Battery to something in a pinch, or making sure your jacks are grounding when outside of the enclosure without having to solder a wire in there.

I don't recommend the prebonded wire, especially if it's only 24 gauge. It's probably not flexible or durable enough because it's thin and prebonded. I recommend at least a 20 or 18 gauge stranded wire, and you should reinforce the connection with some heat shrink so it stays strong. Your weakest link will be the connection to the jacks and to the alligator clips if you do it yourself.

Jacob

[mandrewbot3k]

Thank you for the input Jacob. I ended up buying the 10 pack of alligator clips with leads. i think these http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062660. i figured the extra 4 dollars was probably worth it. im pretty sure i have an extra probe at home, and if not its probably cheaper to buy a cheap DMM from harbor freight than to buy the $10 leads from radioshack.

Now, if the outputs are in parallel, would there be a load issue on the output if say i started getting full signal all of a sudden + some intermittent signal taken before the output combined? or will it actually be lower since its in parallel. i forgot all my circuits knowlege back in college. im a civil engineer so all those mesh circuits and bla bla bla were the least of my worries. Plus that class was curved so much I only ever needed like a 12/20 to get an A on any of the quizzes and a 30/50 to ace a test. lol.

[jkokura]

I have no idea if there's any load, but frankly I don't think it matters. This isn't a hifi device, it just to test the pcb to make sure it works and to debug one that doesn't. The audio fidelity doesn't much matter to me. If it does to you, I recommend buildig a separate testing rig and audio probe.

Hope that helps!

Jacob

[mandrewbot3k]

Oh, I'm not concerned about the fidelity, I was more worried about overloading the input on my amplifier. But now that I think about, I'm sure it'll be fine considering how many amplifying circuits I normally run in front of it.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

Got sick and tired of waiting for futurlec to ship me my plastic project enclosure i was gonna use to make my test box. Just wired it all up to each other and wa-lah, got something here. Having some grounding issues but if i play with the wires and leave it alone once it works it's all good. So with that I can confirm my first working vero build which would be the dragonfly layout one knob colorsound overdriver. It is nice and beefy!! Lots of fizzle and fuzzle! I'll test it with my Les Paul tomorrow as that will get some serious tone with this circuit!
Now in retrospec I waited wayyy too long. Should have put this thing together months ago as it took about 15 mins and felt like big accomplishment! 2 Jacks, 1 ground wire, 1 battery snap and 4 alligator clips

[tenwatt]

I'm showing all my noobie glory here...won't the board shock you if you have it all wired up and handle it?

[jkokura]

I've never experienced that... I imagine it could if you handled the battery lead, but if you think about it, if you touch both poles of a 9V battery do you get shocked? Even touching it to your tongue gives you barely any kind of reaction.

Jacob

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

No shock at all. In fact since my test rig is not boxed up I have to fiddle all the pieces almost everytime I try to use it. I finally realized that the screwdriver I was using to hold the test unit from slipping off my desk onto the floor was creating continuity from two points!! No mo screwdriver, no more fuss!! And still no shock!!

[tenwatt]

I don't understand how that can be.  In the video, didn't he hook it up to DC?  I assumed that if the PCB is receiving DC then it's charged.

[jkokura]

I've never experienced that... I imagine it could if you handled the battery lead, but if you think about it, if you touch both poles of a 9V battery do you get shocked? Even touching it to your tongue gives you barely any kind of reaction.

Jacob