Water slide decals, oh how I hate thee

[GhostofJohnToad]

Maybe I am doing something wrong but given my repetitive nature, repetitive nature I am inclined to think I'm doing something wrong. I'll go through the process of print decal, clear coat decal, apply decal and it will work perfectly.  Next time, same process and the decal won't come off the backing right, will tear, will get bubbly, or a variety of other reasons.  I hate the process!  Is there a better way!  I like that a well applied decal gives, but the screw ups are getting pricey. 

Sorry more of a rant than anything.  Maybe if I could just get the decals off the backing more consistently I'd be set.  Is there an ideal water temp, clear coat, or other I should consider?

[jimilee]

Soak it in Luke warm water a little bit longer.

[ThePastRecedes]

A strange thing that I noticed is that it is much easier to apply if you trim the decal to size after clear coat. When I did it the other way round it didn't want to come off. I assume its from sealing the sides.

[jimilee]

A strange thing that I noticed is that it is much easier to apply if you trim the decal to size after clear coat. When I did it the other way round it didn't want to come off. I assume its from sealing the sides.

yep, that's what I do too

[GhostofJohnToad]

Who's Luke and what so special about his water?  

Really, cutting after clear. huh.  So maybe trimming it seals the edges like you say.  So how do you trim after?  Doesn't it leave a mark?  I assume you are using an exacto knife.

[jimilee]

Nope, just regular old scissors, I'm not sure what kind of marks to which you refer. I do 3 coats of clear. let it dry, apply to the enclosure and let it sit over night. When I don't let it sit over night, it gets all f'd up.
  Luke is the god of water in bowl meant for waterslide decal removal. Not really Greek mythology, more polish mythology, probably why you've never heard of him.

[GhostofJohnToad]

Oh wait I think I misunderstood.  I thought you guys meant you are cutting the decal down to size after it was applied to the enclosure.

Yeah - currently I print, clear, dry, cut, then apply.  Well when it works anyway.

[pryde]

One thing I know is the only consistently good WS decal paper I have ever used has been from PPP. I have tried several others but always go back to what PPP sells. It doesn't stretch when removing from liner and always seams to come off clean and easy. Probably done ~75 pedals or so with it having good results.

What decal paper are you using?

[haveyouseenhim]

I think chromsphere has a video tutorial on the subject

[GhostofJohnToad]

I've been using the testors paper that I have found locally.  And yes it does stretch significantly.

[jimilee]

Here is what I have been buying....http://www.ebay.com/itm/160845963632?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Done lots with no problems also.

[gordo]

Keep the clear coat fairly thin.  This will make the decal a little less stretchy (I know that sounds backwards) and the BEST tip that's often overlooked is to add a drop (don't overdo it) of dishwashing liquid to the water.  It makes everything slide better and gives you a bunch more time to move the decal if needed.

[eldanko]

I've been using the testors paper that I have found locally. 

This would be the problem, IMHO.

I used Testors for a long time, and the adhesive on that stuff is just plain awful. Sometimes it sticks fine, sometimes it doesn't stick AT ALL. I tried tweaking the process several different ways, but it's just plain inconsistent. I switched to Papillo stock and never looked back. It actually feels thicker/beefier and sticks considerably better.. haven't had to do a reapplication since.

[Vallhagen]

fwiw, i never clearcoat Before i apply the decal.

[bcalla]

fwiw, i never clearcoat Before i apply the decal.

Ditto.  I use laser decals now, but even before I got my laser I never clearcoated first.