How do I recognize a fake MN3007 ?

[nimbleswitch]

I bought some MN3007's on ebay before discovering the epidemic of fake chips and transistors out there.

Many varieties, which ones are fake?
Anyone know? Mine look most like the top picture.

[jkokura]

Great question.

Unfortunately, the only for sure way to do it is to buy one and test it in a circuit like the Pork Barrel Chorus. You could try and see if you can find feedback on the ebay seller that would verify the chip is fine, which is what I did, but it's still hit or miss. I have a set of 5 plus the Clocks as well that I need to verify from an ebay seller.

You could always go the route of getting chips from Smallbear. Yes they're more expensive, but they're guaranteed to work.

Jacob

[Thunderfunk]

I have a bunch of MN3007's I bought from Gibson Guitars in 1996 and they probably bought then in 1992 or earlier. They look exactly like the top chip in your pictures. ALL the others look very suspect. Notice the size of the date code. Which number is smaller and which has the score line and is it on top or bottom. Also the Matushita parts have that embossed relief.

Dave

[ckim715]

My MN3007 does not have an underscored 2nd number, yet it is real and verified in my Pork Barrel pcb. It does, however, have the M and the embossed relief.

[Thunderfunk]

I don't know which ones are fake. I'm no expert. I'm only saying the ones I have I know are real due to their age, source, and quality. These pics match with what I've seen as authentic. My intent is so you can use them for reference.

I bought a bunch of fake Sanken transistors from a reputable supplier even after I told them how to spot fakes (Chinese writing on the box was a clue). These transistors rated at 17A blew at 1A. I was able to return them. I have a policy at eBay. If it doesn't say it is... it isn't. If they don't say it's NOT scratched... it is scratched.  Notice the wording of the eBay ads. Genuine, OEM (meaningless) Panasonic (copies?). Matsushita?  I wasn't aware of the trident logo being valid.  

The underscoring and size of the code is what caught my attention as POSSIBLY being a way to spot fakes. All the same date code isn't valid for mine as they all came from the same batch.

[Scruffie]

2nd down is a fake i'd say, rest look fine.

Check the spotting 3005 fakes thread I made, it's not entirely compatible with this but it should help.

And as always, you can always buy a brand new BL/V2307 and be sure.

Size, scoring or underlining of date codes is not an indication of fakes, these went through a lot of revisions aesthetically.

Looks aren't everything though, only way to be sure is to test, they could be real and broken/damaged too don't forget, static sensitive parts, you have to be careful handling them.

[lloyd17]

Agreed. My recent experiences have shown that to test MN parts its best to have a working circuit with known good parts.

[LaceSensor]

I dont think they are so expensive to take risks with, just use a verified vendor.
In the UK I can get the Mn3007 and Mn3101 Pair for £2.95 (~$5 ish)
Should I be stockpiling for the end of the Mn3007 world?

[Scruffie]

I dont think they are so expensive to take risks with, just use a verified vendor.
In the UK I can get the Mn3007 and Mn3101 Pair for £2.95 (~$5 ish)
Should I be stockpiling for the end of the Mn3007 world?

No, there's far more of these available (I assume as shorter delays were used more often to immitate reverb and for light echo rather than delays) and the 3207s suffer far less from the switch overs that delays do anyway so the 3007s aren't so important.

I too would avoid ebay and buy from a proper source.

[atreidesheir]

Does anyone have a decent vendor for mn3007 in N. America?

[pickdropper]

Does anyone have a decent vendor for mn3007 in N. America?

You can get them from Small Bear.  They are a but pricey there, but you know Steve will stand behind them.

[juansolo]

If you're in the UK, get then from Dr Tweek. Cheap and we've never had a fake.