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Clipping diode stock -- what else should I add to my stock?

Started by midwayfair, June 20, 2012, 12:52:08 AM

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midwayfair

Quote from: atreidesheir on June 26, 2012, 08:35:11 PM
Every 1n34a I have ever see looked like this:

The tayda 1n34a looks like this:

These might be a workalike.  I cannot comment about how they would sound.  Probably pretty good.  I have not been doing this as long as most in the forums and I could be mistaken.

I have black banded 1N34as (various sources), green-and-red banded (Smallbear workalike/generic), green-and-orange banded (from Scott's electronics) ... they come in different packages, but all have similar or identical performance.

The Tayda picture isn't actually a picture of the diode. They use generic drawings for all their parts, not photos. They only sell new production stuff, so they don't need to prove that the parts are genuine like with NOS parts.

alanp

That looks like a 'generic diode icon' to me. If you look at the IC pages, f'r instance, they'll have pictures of generic computer-rendered 14pin (or whatever) IC's with no markings.

If anyone orders some Tayda 1n34a's and BAT41's, post some pix of the RL example.
"A man is not dead while his name is still spoken."
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midwayfair

Quote from: alanp on June 26, 2012, 09:43:53 PM
That looks like a 'generic diode icon' to me. If you look at the IC pages, f'r instance, they'll have pictures of generic computer-rendered 14pin (or whatever) IC's with no markings.

If anyone orders some Tayda 1n34a's and BAT41's, post some pix of the RL example.

I'm getting some with my next order. :)

I tested all the diodes today. I'll post my findings in the kits thread. Might take a few days, and I'll have another half dozen or more to test soon.

atreidesheir

Please do not think I am a hater.  I just received a huge Tayda order a few weeks ago.  I am a customer.  So if they are managing to source some germanium pieces, that is good news for us.
Technically we are all half-centaur. - Nick Offerman

GrindCustoms

I'm just coming out of my meth lab........and here are the results of my FET clipping......science have once again proved me that it worth it to fool around.

So i tried, J201, BS170, 2N5457 and MPF102, did'nt want to scrap up a NOS Motorola 2N4416A......

For a strange reason that i don't really understand, the MPF102 gave the best results.

I did the testing in the latest CJ Dist Plus that i built...., all except the MPF102 really killed the headroom and overall volume.

The MPF102 matched with a 1N270 gave me a real tight modern distortion sound wich was really enjoyable.

With the FET and the other diode lifted, it sounded similar to Led-Lifted combo, but with more chunk and low end response.

Really worth the try ;)
Killing Unicorns, day after day...

Building a better world brick by brick:https://rebrickable.com/users/GrindingBricks/mocs/

BRGPollen

Midwayfair,

     Christmas in July!!  On the same day I received your diode kit, I received a custom etch from Harbadasher!!  I think I'm going to build out my Sunking and breadboard all of these diodes.  Considering all of the gigs that I have, it might take me 'till August to get to a report.  But, believe me when I say you have set the bar on the level of "thorough" expected.   Thanks a TON!!  ;D

"B" RehmGerdes
The Musician's Theory of Relativity . . . . . E=Fb

midwayfair

Quote from: BRGPollen on July 09, 2012, 04:48:03 AMConsidering all of the gigs that I have

#Firstworldproblems. :D j/k

Thanks, man. I hope you enjoy them.

Update on the above discussion about Tayda's 1N34A germanium diodes: They turned out to be the same package as their 1N914s -- very small, glass, and gold contacts inside. They look almost identical to the 1N914s. I suspect that they're like the 1N60Ps, a silicon workalike for the Germaniums, but I'll try the "finger trick" to see if I can change the Fv by touching them with my finger to verify if they're really Ge or Si. (Just like germanium transistors, Germanium diodes react easily to heat.)

Even if the turn out to be real germanium, if the Fv is right then this is good news for building projects that use Ge diodes as rectifiers, like the Afterlife or Green Ringer. I'd certainly like to use four $0.07 diodes than four $0.75 diodes.

atreidesheir

Just received 100 1n60p diodes from tayda.  I figured if they are workalikes, so be it. 
I agree with midwayfair.  LOOK like run of the mill silicons. 

But on another note:
This is a link to guitarpcb advertising 1n60p germanium diodes for $2.25/10 pack.
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3276935

Not too bad maybe, but the photo
Looks exactly like the 1n60p from Tayda.  I understand they are probably generic diode picture stock.   
Technically we are all half-centaur. - Nick Offerman

midwayfair

Quote from: atreidesheir on July 25, 2012, 03:15:35 AM
Just received 100 1n60p diodes from tayda.  I figured if they are workalikes, so be it. 
I agree with midwayfair.  LOOK like run of the mill silicons. 

But on another note:
This is a link to guitarpcb advertising 1n60p germanium diodes for $2.25/10 pack.
http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3276935

Not too bad maybe, but the photo
Looks exactly like the 1n60p from Tayda.  I understand they are probably generic diode picture stock.   

Yeah, the Semtechs are basically the same as the ones Tayda sells (manufactured by DC). I got 1N60Ps from a guy on Ebay that are yet another manufacturer, but they still look the same. If I had to guess, I'd say they're all coming from the same factory and then being branded afterward. Like cars.

The DO-7 package is the old style familiar glass package with black rings. They sound slightly different (darker and more compressed) than the new production silicons (the two different ones I've gotten pretty much sounded identical) but they have the same forward voltage. I used the silicon ones in the rectifier network of an Afterlife and they were perfect for that application, since they were a fraction of the price of a 1N270 and you can match them very easily.

These ARE silicon for sure, by the way, and so is Tayda's 1N34A, which not only has the wrong Fv (it's over 6) but does not pass the applied heat test to change the forward voltage. I won't order those again, unless someone orders them and gets a completely different result, in which case I'll consider the possibility of them having labeled them wrong or something.

atreidesheir

guitar pcb link specifically says germanium.  I do not believe it is intentionally deceptive, if it is inaccurate.  Two years ago I bought real NOS 1n34 germaniums for $0.35 each.  That was the best price I could find online at the time so I bought 100 and stocked up.  Maybe a llifetime supply.  It is funny perhaps I will buy germanium diodes, but purposefully avoid ge transistors.  I do not like crap shoots.  My builds are crappy enough without the parts being another weak spot.
The sound is what matters.  Should be my mantra. 

Have a good one everybody. 
Technically we are all half-centaur. - Nick Offerman

midwayfair

I am sad and annoyed to report that Tayda's new 1N34A in the DO-7 package ALSO appears to be a silicon workalike and have the wrong forward voltage (~.65v). They don't pass the 'heat' test to increase their Fv. They SOUND just fine, but they won't work where any of us typically use 1N34As for their clipping properties. I'm a little ticked off about this one, actually, because they're clearly made to look like the genuine article and were priced the same as new production 1N34As I can get on Ebay that are actually germanium and have the proper Fv.

As far as the Guitar PCB link goes, the Semtech ones actually do use Germanium. It makes buying this part number (1N60P) complicated ... I've ordered four different kinds now from various places, all but one of which said "Germanium," and only one has actually been Ge. However, I've generally preferred the sound and function of the silicon for these.

ichilton

I guess Tayda must have changed their 1N34A's since then, as I just looked at some I ordered in the last month or so and they are see through glass with 2 black rings.

I've already used one out of a pack of 10, but the others read as follows:

0.239
0.229
0.227
0.232
0.227
0.238
0.241 (only had a single black band, oddly)
0.247
0.235

They also do seem temperature dependant as they took a bit to stabilise and then if I grip it in my hands, the reading goes slowly down about 0.001 per second...

Does all that look correct for 1N34A's?

They're $0.24 each.

Ian