Deadringer tone pot

[mshartz]

I'm fairly new at building pedals but completed my Deadringer project last weekend. It sounds great except that the tone pot seems not to change the tone at all from off to about 4:00 position. Then at 4:00 it gets  very bright all of a sudden and stays the same to about 5:00 which is the end of travel for the pot. I've double checked my soldering and the build calls for a 25BK pot which is what I have in there. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

[oldhousescott]

I've come to prefer a 5KB pot in the tone position for TS type builds. The 25KB has too large a dead spot in the middle for my tastes. Regardless, you should notice a difference in tone at both ends of travel, not just the CW end, and it shouldn't be bunched up in the last bit of rotation.

For starters, I would double check C7 and C8 values as well as R11.

[mshartz]

I've checked the values of C7, C8, and R11. All are good.

[Myramyd]

I'm having the exact same problem. Let us know if you figure it out!

[mgwhit]

The DeadRinger is just a tweaked Tube Screamer, so take a look at the tone configuration on the Green Bean schematic.  Exact same capacitor and resistor values...but the mysterious W20K tone pot!

To the best of my understanding, the W taper is essentially a dual-audio taper -- imagine one audio taper from 0-10K and another audio taper from 10K on out to 20K.  This should prevent the bunching you're getting with linear taper pots.

I think they have them available at PedalPartsPlus and SmallBear.

[Myramyd]

For me, as long as it's "normal" for the pedal, then I'm okay with it.

I noticed it was a bit quiet compared to a TS as well but, I saw in another thread that was also normal for the FDII.

J