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IMPv2 done, almost.

Started by redkurn, February 20, 2021, 10:55:30 AM

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redkurn

Just need to box this one up in the morning, spent about 6 hours on it.
Was fun and a little challenging given the through holes are slightly smaller than the GreenBean2019, but sounds pretty cool, can't wait to get it in it's 1590A and put those mini Oxblood knobs on.

jjjimi84

Very nice work! Look forward to the finished product

madbean

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you are not going to be able to fit it in a 1590A as you have built it. You need to use low profile Electrolytic caps like the ones linked to the Mouser cart in the build doc. It appears that you have used 11mm standard electros here. That size will not work for any 1590A build (the tallest cap you can fit is 7mm).

This is partly a failure on my end. I generally specify "low profile" electros in the Shopping List but I did not in the IMP doc b/c I linked to the ones I use for 1590A builds. I should have done both of these things to ensure there was no confusion.

So, there are a couple of options. You could go with what you've got and put it in a 1590A Tall enclosure like this
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/small-bear-tall-a-size/

Or replace the 11m caps with 5mm ones. If you want, I can send you the caps you need to replace. I should have enough.

redkurn

#3
Quote from: madbean on February 20, 2021, 04:14:14 PM
I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you are not going to be able to fit it in a 1590A as you have built it. You need to use low profile Electrolytic caps like the ones linked to the Mouser cart in the build doc. It appears that you have used 11mm standard electros here. That size will not work for any 1590A build (the tallest cap you can fit is 7mm).

This is partly a failure on my end. I generally specify "low profile" electros in the Shopping List but I did not in the IMP doc b/c I linked to the ones I use for 1590A builds. I should have done both of these things to ensure there was no confusion.

So, there are a couple of options. You could go with what you've got and put it in a 1590A Tall enclosure like this
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/small-bear-tall-a-size/

Or replace the 11m caps with 5mm ones. If you want, I can send you the caps you need to replace. I should have enough.

I just noticed that was going to be an issue, while I was ordering I was thinking it might need low profiles and saw them in the example pics.

Looking more like it will need about a 1/4 inch/5-6mm riser even then. I'll work it out.
I think I can make it work by moving the drill holes for IN/OUT/DC up a mm or so and create a spacer for the backplate.
Did you see my post asking if I can use the bean on my greenbean? I want to use it as a literal name since the box is green and well the bean. I'd just need a PSD of the bean itself if you have one.

jimilee

Quote from: redkurn on February 20, 2021, 05:43:22 PM
Quote from: madbean on February 20, 2021, 04:14:14 PM
I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you are not going to be able to fit it in a 1590A as you have built it. You need to use low profile Electrolytic caps like the ones linked to the Mouser cart in the build doc. It appears that you have used 11mm standard electros here. That size will not work for any 1590A build (the tallest cap you can fit is 7mm).

This is partly a failure on my end. I generally specify "low profile" electros in the Shopping List but I did not in the IMP doc b/c I linked to the ones I use for 1590A builds. I should have done both of these things to ensure there was no confusion.

So, there are a couple of options. You could go with what you've got and put it in a 1590A Tall enclosure like this
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/small-bear-tall-a-size/

Or replace the 11m caps with 5mm ones. If you want, I can send you the caps you need to replace. I should have enough.

I just noticed that was going to be an issue, while I was ordering I was thinking it might need low profiles and saw them in the example pics.

Looking more like it will need about a 1/4 inch/5-6mm riser even then. I'll work it out.
I think I can make it work by moving the drill holes for IN/OUT/DC up a mm or so and create a spacer for the backplate.
Did you see my post asking if I can use the bean on my greenbean? I want to use it as a literal name since the box is green and well the bean. I'd just need a PSD of the bean itself if you have one.

If you use lumberg input jacks and a smaller 9v jack, you shouldn't have any problems. The jacks will let you drop the board lower than normal jacks.
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

redkurn

Quote from: jimilee on February 20, 2021, 07:14:17 PMIf you use lumberg input jacks and a smaller 9v jack, you shouldn't have any problems. The jacks will let you drop the board lower than normal jacks.

Those were out of stock, so I've got regular open jacks and a small dc jack.
Only options I have other than spending a lot of time on desoldering is a spacer or a different box, I've already got the spacer half made.

jimilee

Quote from: redkurn on February 20, 2021, 08:14:56 PM
Quote from: jimilee on February 20, 2021, 07:14:17 PMIf you use lumberg input jacks and a smaller 9v jack, you shouldn't have any problems. The jacks will let you drop the board lower than normal jacks.

Those were out of stock, so I've got regular open jacks and a small dc jack.
Only options I have other than spending a lot of time on desoldering is a spacer or a different box, I've already got the spacer half made.
Make it happen. That's what diy is all about!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

redkurn

Quote from: jimilee on February 20, 2021, 08:39:11 PM
Make it happen. That's what diy is all about!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll paint the spacer and make it two tone  if I make it from wood out fix my 3D printer and print one, maybe buy a 1590A tall if I can find the same silver painted.

Fixing the issue is half the fun, I do appreciate Brian being willing to send me smaller caps though.

jimilee

Quote from: redkurn on February 21, 2021, 12:34:39 AM
Quote from: jimilee on February 20, 2021, 08:39:11 PM
Make it happen. That's what diy is all about!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll paint the spacer and make it two tone  if I make it from wood out fix my 3D printer and print one, maybe buy a 1590A tall if I can find the same silver painted.

Fixing the issue is half the fun, I do appreciate Brian being willing to send me smaller caps though.
We're always happy to help out around here. We got a good group.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pedal building is like the opposite of sex.  All the fun stuff happens before you get in the box.

redkurn

Quote from: jimilee on February 21, 2021, 12:41:48 AM
We're always happy to help out around here. We got a good group.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've seen that so far, really glad I stumbled across this site.
Excellent PCB, drilling diagrams are perfect, everything a new guy could ever need in one place as far as a place to start and info.

redkurn

#10
Fixed my 3d printer finally... seems I had a bad belt since it broke when I was adjusting it, popped a new spare on and I'll be, it prints way better than it had in the past so I popped open Solidworks and about half an hour later designed a spacer for that 1590A.

Been a long time since I bothered with that program, hope it prints close enough I won't have to do any fine tuning with sandpaper.  :o

This is based on the 1590A from Tayda, your mileage may vary if you find yourself in need of an extra 8mm of room and have a printer, but attaching the STL and SLDPRT.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x6y5hxp75ttlsp9/1590A-8mm-Spacer.STL?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tq6j2m6my5hp861/1590A-8mm-Spacer.SLDPRT?dl=0

Warped a little and screw holes aren't aligned, but this will do.
Fixed the screw hole alignment, should be good now.




The temporary "box"  ;)

dawson

Nice temporary box.
The LED taped to the side is perfect- I laughed at its' greatness.

Ever tried printing with carbon fiber PLA?
It's super rigid and strong but more importantly it prints flat every time without needing luck or sorcery like ABS.
The only downside is it doesn't come in purple..
Criticism is encouraged: constructive, or otherwise.

redkurn

#12
Quote from: dawson on February 27, 2021, 02:56:20 AM
Nice temporary box.
The LED taped to the side is perfect- I laughed at its' greatness.

Ever tried printing with carbon fiber PLA?
It's super rigid and strong but more importantly it prints flat every time without needing luck or sorcery like ABS.
The only downside is it doesn't come in purple..

Thanks, I thought it was funny and a bit ironic being a TALENTi gelato can.  ;D
I used the PLA from my Wife's projects stash, I haven't used anything other than PLA and PETG so far, I do have a spool of ABS that came with my printer.
I'm still trying to work out why I get a warp in the same corner no matter what I do, only when I set my bed to 50c it stops, but the print pops off too.

From, what I've read you need a steel nozzle to run carbon fiber or it wears the brass nozzle out fast.

I'm having to shorten the wires between the daughter board and main board, the PCB is rocking on them.

redkurn

#13
Quote from: madbean on February 20, 2021, 04:14:14 PM
I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but you are not going to be able to fit it in a 1590A as you have built it. You need to use low profile Electrolytic caps like the ones linked to the Mouser cart in the build doc. It appears that you have used 11mm standard electros here. That size will not work for any 1590A build (the tallest cap you can fit is 7mm).

This is partly a failure on my end. I generally specify "low profile" electros in the Shopping List but I did not in the IMP doc b/c I linked to the ones I use for 1590A builds. I should have done both of these things to ensure there was no confusion.

So, there are a couple of options. You could go with what you've got and put it in a 1590A Tall enclosure like this
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/small-bear-tall-a-size/

Or replace the 11m caps with 5mm ones. If you want, I can send you the caps you need to replace. I should have enough.

Well it works when it's boxed, touching the box. I'm done and just need to source new longer screws down the street and use filler, sand, prime and paint the printed part.

I changed the wiring and now I'm not getting any output, where should I start looking?
The IC's look like they are getting power, but most points are like .24v.
LED is on, but no sound passing through and I'm not finding grounded issues with my jacks.
When I touch the stomp switch I get a buzz, that's new.

Slid off my desk and something happened while it was hanging from the input, sound!  ;D
So it works as long as it is tipped and not tipped back toward the input jack and when the switch is touching the case it works no matter what. very odd.







redkurn

Finished the spacer, eventually one day maybe the painters tape labels will get replaced.
I think that color is close to the other color klon used. So kind of a homage.