White Horse version confusion

[Bobblybook]

Hi!
I'm in the process of building a white horse compressor, but the build docs are a bit confusing.
I am building v5 and I have the v5 (newest) pcb. The build doc is mostly for v4.2 (old), with some updates for 5.0 revision, and confusingly has images for both 4.2 and 5.0 pcb's. There are some annotations for updated 5.0 changes such as clipping diodes, but the BOM is still based on 4.2, as well as most of the component references and lists.

In particular, I am stuck on the 10uF caps.
They were (at some point in the past) non-polarised film caps. It got changed at some point to use bi-polar electrolytics, though the solder mask still showed the old film cap.
In v5, the solder mask has been updated to electrolytics, but it now also shows polarity markings for all of the 10uF caps.
I bought based off the old BOM, so I now have 3x bi-polar 10uF's to put in there. But now I'm wondering: are these still supposed to be bi-polars? There is mention in the build doc of the (cosmetic) solder mask update, but no mention of switching from bi-polars to standard polarised electrolytics.

The link to suitable bi-polars is still listed at the end of the document, but this might also still be a relic from v4.2.

Basically, TL;DR: Are the 10uF's still meant to be bi-polar. If not, can I use bi-polars in place of polarised anyway? I don't see why it would cause issues. I do have some good panasonic (standard) 10uF's if that's all that's needed now..

Thanks.

[madbean]

Yeah I can see your confusion. The boards I originally got from him were the 4.2v but the documentation he provided on it listed those caps as 10uF. I suspect they were originally 1uF film caps when he was building v4.2 and later changed.

Anyway, the 10uF linked in the doc are the right ones to use. You can ignore the polarity indicator on both the board and schematic. He may not have had a bi-polar package drawing when he did the board way back when.

[Bobblybook]

Yeah I can see your confusion. The boards I originally got from him were the 4.2v but the documentation he provided on it listed those caps as 10uF. I suspect they were originally 1uF film caps when he was building v4.2 and later changed.

Anyway, the 10uF linked in the doc are the right ones to use. You can ignore the polarity indicator on both the board and schematic. He may not have had a bi-polar package drawing when he did the board way back when.

Thanks a lot for clarifying! I just realised that I somehow accidentally ordered 100uF bi-polars, despite my spreadsheet saying 10uF as in the schematic. Guess I got the part number wrong, so back to shopping I go 

I also noticed a couple of other errors, so I've re-done the BoM and first page data as a service to you and anyone else who builds this in the future. Feel free to use this if you update the pdf for 5.0:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fgcd98S0kAL92lBOG7E-wqEC1LozJzJf?usp=sharing

Edit: also the switching board link should be updated from v2 to v3: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/VFE/pdf/VFE_SBv3.pdf