My take on the DSOTM aka Skreddy Lunar Module

[Max]

After playing a bit with a breadboarded fuzz, starting from a simple VOX fuzz (from a VOX Double Sound Wah-Fuzz), then turning it into a Jimi Hendrix FF, I decided to go for something more flexible and built the Skreddy Lunar Module.
I designed the PCB to fit a 1590A with two pots for Level and Fuzz, two pots with the small plastic shaft for Body and Bright and a trim for the Bias with the possibility to put a shaft on it and bring it out of the enclosure (which I did, and recommend).
At first I was really disappointed with the sound, until I checked the schematic and found a missing trace, nothing important, only the input signal to the base of Q2  Now I'm surprised I got any sound at all 
Anyway, fixed that and voilà, sounds great without any tweaking and with a lot of different settings. I still have to try it with a Wah.
Here's a couple of pictures. The graphic was recycled from another pedal that I didn't really like and is long gone in the spare parts bin.
PS: the LED is purple 
Enjoy:

[jimilee]

That's just awesome man. No sound demo?

[Max]

Thanks! Well, yes, I just can't do it now, as soon as I can I'll record something.

[Ben N]

You madman! I built one on a jmk board in a 125B; I have no notion of how you got it into a 1590A. Enjoy!

[Aleph Null]

It looks downright roomy in there! Also like the graphics.

[cooder]

Tight! And great build n' looks! 

[Philthy]

Max, Awesome. I'd be very interested in one of those PCBs if you have any leftover. Cheers.

[Bio77]

Awesome build!.  Looks like a 1590B on the inside, didn't know that could be done.  If you have a pic of the topside of the board before it wanton the box, it would be cool to see how all that fits together.

[Max]

Thanks everybody! This evening I can open it up and take a picture of the other side of the board. Actually, the only way to fit it in there was to use 1/4W mini resistors from Musikding, the normal metal film ones should be mounted vertical (and I have a pcb drawing for that as well). The capacitors' size is critical too, the one that's right in the centre of the board is touching the lid of the box
@Philthy: I still have two boards of the three I ordered from Oshpark, but they all have the missing trace I mentioned above. It can be easily fixed with a bridge wire, otherwise I can share the corrected .brd file in Oshpark or directly here.

[pickdropper]

That is a beautiful layout.  Well done.

[Bio77]

Thanks everybody! This evening I can open it up and take a picture of the other side of the board.

Oh, I hope you won't do that because of my question.  I thought you might have a pic on hand.   I was just wondering if you had anything special, is it just regular 9mm pots?

[Max]

Actually, when I got home I opened the enclosure to take the picture, just to remember that the power socket is soldered to the board with very short tinned wire, so I can't take the PCB out unless I de-solder that first. But I took a close up of the component side
As for your question, I've used 9mm pots for Fuzz and Level (https://www.musikding.de/Pot-9mm-100k-log-Print-vertical), two of these (https://www.musikding.de/Potentiometer-9mm-100k-log-Print_1) for Body and Bright, and a 5mm trimmer for the Bias with a 20mm axle (https://www.musikding.de/ACP-axle-20mm-black). Unfortunately, the axle is made for 10mm trimmers, so I had to modify it a little bit to fit.
I had to use a trimmer for the Bias because I couldn't find a vertical pot of the right value (2K).
Here's the picture:

[TGP39]

I love everything about this!  Great job.
~Steve