Graphics

[Aleph Null]

By the way, any one tried using mod podge for image transfer? How did it go? Is it possible to get a smooth finish like on water slide decals?

I've used Mod Podge with water slide decals and printer paper. The only way to get a smooth finish is to sand it down and polish after you build it up. Mod Podge will give you a satin to low gloss finish at best. If you want I gloss finish, you'll have to apply an acrylic clear coat on top of it.

[davent]

I used GAC 200 for laser image transfers. Found waterborne lacquers applied with an airbrush the best clearcoat, sealant. Acrylic mediums like Mod Podge, GAC200, pva's, will reabsorb water go milky looking if not sealed.
Can easily get any type of finish luster you'd like with the lacquers.

dave

[vicfiveleven]

Hi guys, sorry for reviving this 2 month old post. I used the vinegar trick on a decal I applied on a 1590bb. As usual it wrinkles and bubbles so i pressed what I thought were air spaces and left it to dry while I went to work. When I got back most of it flattened but there were lots of bubbles left. How do I flatten those? Can I dab a little vinegar on them to flatten? It's already dry.

[gordo]

I think half the battle is getting good decal stock.  I've used a lot of different stuff and while it's a bit more expensive I've had by far the best luck with the stuff Steve is stocking at Small Bear.  It has a protective sheet covering the printable side (don't forget to remove it after you've cut the piece to size and are ready to print).  I print using a color laser.  I print the image, tape a decal over the part I'm going to use on the pedal and run it thru the printer again.  Using either a b&w or color laser allows you to use the decal immediately and doesn't require a sealer spray.

Warm tap water with a drop of dish soap is all I use to wet it.  I also wet the top of the enclosure with the same soapy water, which gives me a bit better chance of moving it if I have to.  I get it placed where I want it and with my fingers on the decal I lightly pull the backing out from underneath it.  Slow and steady...if it fights you then wet the decal for a bit more.  Get it in place and I go over it VERY lightly with the front edge of a credit card like using a squeegee.  I say front edge because it is rounded due to the way they cut them and there's less chance of grabbing the decal.  This squeezes out any residual water under the decal.  It should lay dead flat and have no bubbles if you've done it right.

Let that dry over night, hit it with a few light coats of spray lacquer (satin or gloss clear) and let it dry at least 4 or 5 hours before touching it.  Ideally 24 hours before any heavy handling.

This is an example of the VFE Bumblebee and Bean's Snarkdoodle.  The VFE is a white powdercoated (BLMS) 1590B and the Snark is an unpainted (BLMS) 1590A.  I HATE painting.