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My "Dirt" box is getting a little rusty :)

Started by jimmybjj, September 12, 2011, 03:43:31 AM

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raulduke

This is a really cool build mate.

How did you get the cool finish?

It looks like you buried it in the garden and left it for a year  :)

The guts are immaculate too....like really immaculate

jimmybjj

Quote from: jubal81 on September 19, 2011, 03:25:59 AM
After watching your video, I went on to watch some HAO Rust Driver demos. Of course I haven't heard them in person, but in videoland I gotta say yours flat out dogs the real deal. It's much more focused and clear. The HAO sounds like it can get dull and mushy in places.

Thanks for the greats comments, I really appreciate that :) There are a couple of parts substitutions, and I used a different ic. If there is interest I can open it back up and see what I did. I'm really digging the sound.
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jimmybjj

Quote from: raulduke on September 19, 2011, 08:36:02 AM
This is a really cool build mate.

How did you get the cool finish?

It looks like you buried it in the garden and left it for a year  :)

The guts are immaculate too....like really immaculate

I'll attemp to explain but I've only done it twice so it's not an exact science yet :) first I create normal etch template for the enclosure with just the name of the pedal. But it is setup like a reverse etch with toner on the letters rather than everywhere else. I use a etchant that works faster than normally needed for this application. This results in the etchant eating through some parts of the toner, creating dimples in the lettering. I then clean the enclosure in prep for powder coating. I use "real rust" from Columbia coatings. I take the enclosure out about half way through curing. I then flat sand the top, this will only sand the letters leaving some shiny parts and dark dimples. I  then use strip of sand paper with acetone and sand various spots. Stick it back in the oven and let it finish curing, and your done.

This is not a definitive method. I'm still learning. Some steps may or may not be needed. You could probably just use a brown powder if you don't have "real rust" powder. The rust powder has orangish flecks in it but most of them "go away" when you start sanding, leaving a mostly brown finish.
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jubal81

Quote from: jimmybjj on September 19, 2011, 01:25:30 PM
Quote from: jubal81 on September 19, 2011, 03:25:59 AM
After watching your video, I went on to watch some HAO Rust Driver demos. Of course I haven't heard them in person, but in videoland I gotta say yours flat out dogs the real deal. It's much more focused and clear. The HAO sounds like it can get dull and mushy in places.

Thanks for the greats comments, I really appreciate that :) There are a couple of parts substitutions, and I used a different ic. If there is interest I can open it back up and see what I did. I'm really digging the sound.

I had a pretty good feeling there was an IC swap going on. I've got some OP275s on the way and I'm anxious to see how they compare to the TLEs, especially since they are about half the price.
"If you put all the knobs on your amplifier on 10 you can get a much higher reaction-to-effort ratio with an electric guitar than you can with an acoustic."
- David Fair

DuctTapeRiot

Quote from: jimmybjj on September 19, 2011, 01:38:32 PM

I'll attemp to explain but I've only done it twice so it's not an exact science yet :) first I create normal etch template for the enclosure with just the name of the pedal. But it is setup like a reverse etch with toner on the letters rather than everywhere else. I use a etchant that works faster than normally needed for this application. This results in the etchant eating through some parts of the toner, creating dimples in the lettering. I then clean the enclosure in prep for powder coating. I use "real rust" from Columbia coatings. I take the enclosure out about half way through curing. I then flat sand the top, this will only sand the letters leaving some shiny parts and dark dimples. I  then use strip of sand paper with acetone and sand various spots. Stick it back in the oven and let it finish curing, and your done.

This is not a definitive method. I'm still learning. Some steps may or may not be needed. You could probably just use a brown powder if you don't have "real rust" powder. The rust powder has orangish flecks in it but most of them "go away" when you start sanding, leaving a mostly brown finish.

This is awesome info, I am starting to feel like i have the painting-waterslide decal-envirotex method figured out and am going to start some etching soon.  Please keep us up to date with any futher info on your technique?

jimmybjj

Didn't want to start another build report for the making the same pedal again. This is a fabbed board in a 1590a. Finish is power coated.




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illcom

The rusty on is one of my favorite finish ever.
Nice job.
-Pat