Mudbunny/Mayo Mids

[eldanko]

I'm in the process of building up a Mudbunny Mayo-style, and I'd like to get some opinions regarding having a mids switch (like the stock unit) or a full-blown mids pot.  The last iteration of the Mudbunny boards had a mids pot built in, the new one does not...

Based on Diamond's diagram here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2385.15 it looks like it would be easy to toss one of these into the build.

Has anyone built a Mayo with an actual mids pot?  How'd it turn out?

[greysun]

I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

[eldanko]

Why didn't I think of that... 

Done.  Thanks for the idea!

[thesameage]

I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

Very old thread, but does anyone know if you use this method if you need to remove the R18 resistor? Some methods on here have you removing it and others don't. Sounds like you remove it, but just want to be sure.

Also, would I want to change C10 to 22n here? Again, that is the suggestion on other threads (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2919.msg24741#msg24741), but not mentioned here.

thank you!

JR

[greysun]

I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

Very old thread, but does anyone know if you use this method if you need to remove the R18 resistor? Some methods on here have you removing it and others don't. Sounds like you remove it, but just want to be sure.

Also, would I want to change C10 to 22n here? Again, that is the suggestion on other threads (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2919.msg24741#msg24741), but not mentioned here.

thank you!

JR

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the change value for c10 in diamonds schematic was related to the pot going all the way to zero and causing issues with the tone control... with Brian's mod, by putting the 4k7 resistor on lugs one and two of the 25k pot, it keeps c10 from having issues with tone.

Either way, I built 4 different muds with that mod and it worked fine each time. I found that I really don't use it much, to be honest, but I like having the option.

I would suggest socketing and seeing what you like. I socketed an entire board so I could play with all the values and find something I really liked in the different versions. It helped a lot.

Separately, but related, I switched over to the pig butt cause I liked the ic version better, but I always find myself reaching for my mud bunnies here and there...

Hope that helps!

[greysun]

I'll be building one up this weekend - I asked Brian himself about the mids mod on the new boards and this was his response:

The Mids pot goes in place of R18 and usually a value of 20kB or 25kB works well. The way I would do it is
wire one leg of R18 on the PCB to lug 1 of the mids pot. Solder in a small resistor (around 4k7) between lugs 1 and 2. The use a return wire from lug 3 to the other spot for R18 on the PCB. This makes the Mids control a variable resistor and the small resistor you soldered in place is a "stopper". IOW, it prevents C10 from going all the way to ground when the mids control is fully counter-clockwise (which would mess up the tone control).

So yea - I'm going by his schema, which is a little different than Diamonds (though i'm sure they do the same thing).

I'm also adding a switch so I can turn it on or off - so essentially a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch, R18 goes to the center lugs of the switch - one side has a resistor between the lugs (whatever value from the parts list), the other side has the mids pot. This way I can turn it off altogether for recording, or have the mids on for jamming and live stuff.

Dunno if that helps you - but it's an option - put in the switch, and if you don't like the mids, just switch it off. :-)

Very old thread, but does anyone know if you use this method if you need to remove the R18 resistor? Some methods on here have you removing it and others don't. Sounds like you remove it, but just want to be sure.

Also, would I want to change C10 to 22n here? Again, that is the suggestion on other threads (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2919.msg24741#msg24741), but not mentioned here.

thank you!

JR

Oh, and you remove r18 altogether in this version... one pad goes to lug 1 of the pot, and the other pad goes to lug 3 of the pot.

Again, that's how i did mine, and it works, but maybe there's a new and fancier way, hehe...

[madbean]

The pot/resistor combo replaces R18. The resistor in this case prevents the entire signal from going to ground. It can be as simple as: lug3 of tone pot --- 25kB pot --- 4k7 --- ground. That combo can give you plenty of range on the pot.

[thesameage]

Awesome and thanks all. I have the enclosure drilled to add this etc.. Ready to go. One thing...I have a B50k...any difference in using that?