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Sunking 2

Started by Strassercaster, February 13, 2015, 05:15:32 PM

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Strassercaster

Hello I am on my second sunking 2 build . The first one turned out great. The second one has issues. I finished it up late last night and have some serious issues. First off I plugged it in no battery and i got nothing. So i pulled it out and while on the bench hooked up a battery and it worked . I boxed it and everything seemed to be fine I only tested on off and the knobs seemed to be working. It was 1 am kids sleeping and I was very tired at the time. I discovered i had the 2 positive wires swapped on the dc jack . one the first one i used an inside nut for the jack and the second has an outside nut for the jack. The top positive is not the same on the two jacks. anyway


   so I swapped the two wires and i get power but now the led stays on at all times. I checked voltages on both boards and I have +/_- 10 percent with in range on both. So the chips seem to be with in the parameters as the working first board. I know get nothing at all for sound and the led stays on at all times. It was really late last night and i got excited when i found i just had the dc jack positive wires reversed.. What should I try next when i get home from work? What would caiuse the led to stay on all the time? I showed zero volts at d1 and d2 on both boards if i remember correctly. I will right down and post specifics sunday as i am super busy working the next two days 15 hour days. please and thank you for all your help. remember i have a working sunking 2 to check off of .

mgwhit

Quote from: Strassercaster on February 13, 2015, 05:15:32 PM
so I swapped the two wires and i get power but now the led stays on at all times. I know get nothing at all for sound and the led stays on at all times.

Did you wire your board up as buffered bypass or true bypass?  And are you not getting any output signal in either footswitch position?

If the LED is staying on all the time, that means that the cathode is shorting to ground.  The most likely place for this to occur is at the footswitch.  Since the you're not getting any signal out either, I recommend triple checking your footswitch wiring and actually testing continuity on your footswitch lugs to confirm that it is behaving appropriately.

Quote from: Strassercaster on February 13, 2015, 05:15:32 PM
I showed zero volts at d1 and d2 on both boards if i remember correctly.

You shouldn't see any voltage on those diodes (other than signal).  They're isolated from reference voltage by C10 and C11.

Strassercaster

Thank you so much. on the first pedal i used a 3pdt and left one outside row completly empty. so on the new one i save a couple bucks and used a dpdt and wired it exactly like the other one since i didnt use a whole row should be the same right??? I was thinking if they are there is my problem. the funny thing is it was working with the battery and not the power jack till i switched the wires then i got power but no signal for either bat or dc jack. ill bet i twisted a wire causeing a bridge on the switch or the wiring should be different.however i did remove it several times and stuffing it back in i could have a short in the switching. I find it hard to believe i messed up on the pcb part. i triple checked and measure every part for resistance and capacitance before installing and really took my time no rush you know. Switch is where I will start. That makes me feel a lot better about the diodes because i havent plugged the first one in since i pulled it out to go off off while buiding this one. I think ill just put a 3pdt switch in first thing and wire it identical to the first pedal . The 2 dollar savings has cost me some time and trouble ha ha. you rock ill let you know what happens. thank you

Strassercaster

oh ya i wired it for buffered sorry. its probably the switch your right. i made the wires really short and they could be touching or the 2pdt should be wired differently than a 3pdt ??? I didnt use the outside left row on the first one

Strassercaster

thanks . it was very late last night i got home an checked the switch wires. after several glances i didnt see anything. so i got the magnifying glass out still didnt see anything. i got the meter out and and i had a short between white and black like you said. i flipped it over and there was a very small peice of steel wool not visible to the naked eye. you couldnt see it because the insulation was touching and it was under t
them. ha ha. yes solved the led works like it should. now for the bad news my treble/tone control doesnt work.the voltage on lug 2 does go down by .03 just like on my first project.never had a problem like this before. is it possible that bridge could have fried the pot?... i am tempted to pull it and try a different one but i hate desoldering on these boards my desoldering tool doesnt do a good enough job and i am worried about lifting an eyelet. where should i start. once again all my voltages are within 10 percent even on the treble control.

mgwhit

Cool -- glad you got it working.  There's no reason to suspect anything happened to the pot.  Can you post good photos of both sides of the board?

AntKnee

Pics would be helpful.
Almost all my late night builds give me a hard time.
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

Strassercaster

its working 100% thanks a lot for the tip and direction. These sound fantastic great job Brian