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1uf film caps options/alternatives

Started by satrian, October 31, 2014, 02:47:09 PM

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satrian

Hi guys! I'm pretty sure this has been asked before and I did perform a search but was unable to pinpoint a response.

The thing is, I placed an order for a local electronics shop (I live in Argentina) for 1uf film caps and what I got was HUGE caps that are pretty much unusable in a small PCB. I would love to use box type caps, but those are not available locally (at least not to my knowledge) and I would have to order them from an international supplier. That's not necessarily a problem, but it takes time and costs more (the current customs situation in Argentina is a NIGHTMARE).

Just wanted to get your 2 cents on possible alternatives or substitutions for those. I was about to use them on the 808 project.

Thanks in advance!

Haberdasher

you can probably use 1uf electrolytic caps if you have them, and you'd ideally point the + side towards the voltage, which requires looking at the schematic to determine.  which 808 project are you building, is it the green bean?  you'd probably be ok pointing the striped side toward the left in both cases i guess.

you could also check if any of your local suppliers carry ceramic caps in that value.
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mgwhit

Quote from: satrian on October 31, 2014, 02:47:09 PM
Just wanted to get your 2 cents on possible alternatives or substitutions for those. I was about to use them on the 808 project.

The 1uF caps in the 808 can be film, electrolytic or even tantalum.  It really doesn't matter.

If you go with polarized electrolytics or tants, you should orient the positive leads toward the point of highest voltage.  In the case of the Grean Bean, I would orient C2's positive lead towards R5 and IC1 pin3 (if you can't confirm visually, use the continuity function on your multimeter) and C8's positive lead towards IC1 pin 7.

If you can get other values of film caps, going down to any value from 220nF up probably won't hurt.  The 1uF in those locations is letting most guitar frequencies pass through.  Lower values will cut more bass, but I'm not sure at what point it would start to become obvious.

Good luck!

satrian

Thank you very much for the replies!

The project is the OSP 808.

gtr2

I have some 1uF films that I would freely send you if interested.  But it would take a while to get there....I'm in the US.

Multilayer ceramics also work nicely in that spot.

Josh
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satrian

Quote from: gtr2 on November 01, 2014, 12:51:54 PM
I have some 1uF films that I would freely send you if interested.  But it would take a while to get there....I'm in the US.

Multilayer ceramics also work nicely in that spot.

Josh

Thanks Josh. I'll try to get some alternative locally and then evaluate international options. I'll probably stock up a good amount if I order some from abroad.

gtr2

Quote from: satrian on November 03, 2014, 12:21:54 AM
Quote from: gtr2 on November 01, 2014, 12:51:54 PM
I have some 1uF films that I would freely send you if interested.  But it would take a while to get there....I'm in the US.

Multilayer ceramics also work nicely in that spot.

Josh

Thanks Josh. I'll try to get some alternative locally and then evaluate international options. I'll probably stock up a good amount if I order some from abroad.

Ok :)
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Contract PCB designer

satrian

How about C10 on the 808 OSP project? Do I point the positive towards R15?