Fixing PCB Eyelets?

[Loose]

So I soldered PCB mounted pots the wrong way and a few eyelets came off while trying to remove the pots.

Is there a way to fix this? And what if some eyelets only came off on one side of the board? Would the circuit work properly if the pots are soldered on one side only?

Some of the eyelets only broke in half, so half of them are still in there, would they provide the proper connection?

This really is turning into a nightmare for me... Help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[alanp]

That's about when you swear and start testing continuity with the multimeter.

If you can still solder to them, and they have continuity to the correct circuit components, then they work... wouldn't anchor a yacht to 'em, mind.

If they don't have continuity, then you'll need to run wires to the other end of the PCB trace instead. If multiple PCB traces run to the broken pad, then you're in for more wires.

[Loose]

Thanks alan.

I checked for continuity and they all checked fine except for one, which still has a complete eyelet on one side, does that mean the connection to the next component is on the other side?

Should I pass on soldering the pots directly to the board again since the eyelets that are left a pretty fragile and just use wires for them?

[wgc]

Likely a double sided pcb so it should be fixable. If it was multilayer, you'd have a lot of work to fix it.

You'll have to check the schematic and see if you have all your connections. It may be the one pin only connects on one side. Should be ok with wires per Alan if not.

[Loose]

Thanks.

So should I not solder the pots directly to the board again since the little bit of weight\pressure might remove the remaining eyelets?

There is also a dual gang pot that I need to desolder, any tips on doing that without any further damage?

[wgc]

Without seeing it, hard to say. You might be ok.

You have to get all the solder out of the holes.  Each lead should wiggle freely. Until that point, it's still soldered and you could damage your pcb.

I use solder wick.  Make sure your iron isn't more than 700-800 f. Add a little solder to the wick, and it should start to pull solder from the hole.

Worst case is to cut the leads off and remove one at a time. I'd rather trash a part than a pcb in most cases.

[Loose]

OK I managed to fix it

Another question though:

The PCB is an Aion Refractor Klon clone. I'm trying to wire it for true bypass.

So looking at this schematic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nu4bbm7ezrpijkj/aion-refractor-centaur-documentation.pdf

SW1-3 is my output. SW1-1 is the buffered bypass so I guess it should be left unwired?

What about the led switching? SW2-1 and SW2-3 are used for that but i'm not sure how.

Thanks!