Degooped Klon...?

[claytushaywood]

I'm trying to see exactly what component selections the original klons had... or at least one of those versions... I'm not a klon buff.  But I cannot seem to find any gutshots of the klon degooped?  I was under the impression that all of the 1uf caps were polarized, and there is a combination of carbon and metal film resistors... but i'm seeing variation on the web between different projects and whatnot.

can someone lead me to some info for building an exact klone?

[mremic01]

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-epRPTTGkNjg/TxC7P8vAxtI/AAAAAAAAAf4/wXngFmDwXmA/s1600/s1.gif

^ This is the most accurate schematic. Martin Chittum did an earlier version that has quite a few errors in component values, but this one has them corrected.

Here's a photo of the degooped PCB: http://soulsonic1978.tripod.com/illuminist/BoardNakedTop1.jpg

You're right about the 1uf caps and the resistors. There are 7 metal films, the rest are carbon film. All caps 1uf and up are electrolytic, except for the one tantalum. The KTR has all film caps, except for that one tantalum again. Bill must think that cap is crucial.

[selfdestroyer]

Don't forget to assemble on a nice sturdy card table to bring out the toanz.

Cody

[claytushaywood]

then of course i found this with the resistors around the treble control swapped. 
so what is correct with the tone control...?  looks like the sunking 2 follows the original schematic here (in this spot)

[claytushaywood]

and about the film caps--- you mean all 1uf's are film?  what is the KTR?

[mremic01]

then of course i found this with the resistors around the treble control swapped. 
so what is correct with the tone control...?  looks like the sunking 2 follows the original schematic here (in this spot)

That is not correct. The schematic I posted has those resistors in the correct positions. Swapping them will make the pedal a bit darker with the Treble knob set at noon, but it won't change the frequency that the knob cuts.

and about the film caps--- you mean all 1uf's are film?  what is the KTR?

Yep. The KTR is, for the most part, the same circuit as the schematic I posted. Bill wanted to avoid electrolytics in it because they go bad over time and film caps don't. Every cap in the KTR is SMD film, except that one tantalum. The KTR also adds a 2M resistors from the input to ground and increases the 1M resistor to 2M. This is because of the optional true bypass switching that was added to the circuit. Otherwise, it's the same as the Centaur. 

[sturgeo]

That is not correct. The schematic I posted has those resistors in the correct positions. Swapping them will make the pedal a bit darker with the Treble knob set at noon, but it won't change the frequency that the knob cuts.

I think it is, last year a discovery was made that the initial schematic had those two values swapped by accident. The value for R21 should be 4k7 and R23 should be 1k8.

[aion]

That is not correct. The schematic I posted has those resistors in the correct positions. Swapping them will make the pedal a bit darker with the Treble knob set at noon, but it won't change the frequency that the knob cuts.

I think it is, last year a discovery was made that the initial schematic had those two values swapped by accident. The value for R21 should be 4k7 and R23 should be 1k8.

You're about to get a Klon history lesson mremic01 singlehandedly debunked that resistor swap claim, which is one of the reasons the original thread on BYOC was removed.

[sturgeo]

I take it back, that'll teach me for not paying attention!

I still personally however prefer them swapped, although there is no difference in cutoff freqs the sound at noon is more to my preference and generally i turn any tone knob to noon as a starting point, i'm sure I'm not the only one!

[claytushaywood]

thanks!

[mremic01]

I take it back, that'll teach me for not paying attention!

I still personally however prefer them swapped, although there is no difference in cutoff freqs the sound at noon is more to my preference and generally i turn any tone knob to noon as a starting point, i'm sure I'm not the only one!

One of my favorite builds has them swapped, but then I can't get the nice sparkle out of it as a treble boost with the pot dimed. On the other hand, I never use the pot completely cut/reverse dimed. So I think the stock setting has a more useable range. You just have to ignore that wrong feeling that comes with turning the knob well left of noon.

[AntKnee]

Can opened...
Worms everywhere!

[blearyeyes]

yea I got worms in my Kingslayer...

Gonna swap them back or try Brian's original build values...