New Project Guitar. Looking for suggestions.

[pryde]

Look up a local granite countertop company. They usually have tons of scrap pieces laying around and will likely just let you have some.

I use 2 lengths, a 12" one for main leveling and a shorter 6" piece to put some fall-away on the frets from the 12th to the end fret.

Here they are: I put the 3M 250 grit free-cut sandpaper on the polished side. I change the sandpaper ~every 10 fret levels or so depending on how it looks/cuts. The weight of the granite blocks provides enough resistance to cut the fret material so no need to push, just let the tool do the cutting and be patient (same goes for the fret crowning file)

[billstein]

Just got in some tools from Stewmac. Which of course leads to a couple more questions.

1. Should I do the fret work with the neck off of the guitar? I read somewhere that you should do this if the neck is bolt on.
2. Do you do the fret work after adjusting the neck to be completely straight?
3. What kind of wrench would I use to adjust the Affinity Strat's neck?

[pryde]

1. your preference but since its your first I would say remove it for ease of access to lower frets

2. Yes. The neck must be straight (no relief or back bow) when you do a fret level.

3. Not for sure but if it is an allen key then most likely 3 or 4mm.

I am going to link you to a picture tutorial I did on a fret dress job on my FB page. It is not a detailed "how to" but gives you the steps with some pics for reference. pics are 1-10 in order with some captions to read:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.223513831153370.1073741853.132279456943475&type=1

[billstein]

Thanks Jeff.

Another question (of course). Amazing how each step brings up another one.

While I have the strings off, seems like a good time to replace the nut. Anybody know if they make a pre-cut Graph tech nut for the Chinese made squires?

[pryde]

Thanks Jeff.

Another question (of course). Amazing how each step brings up another one.

While I have the strings off, seems like a good time to replace the nut. Anybody know if they make a pre-cut Graph tech nut for the Chinese made squires?

Not sure on "drop in replacements" really. I only cut new ones from blank micarta, bone, or graphtech material. Getting into nut making/replacement is another animal with lots of tools and practice so I would not start chewing on that one yet 

[billstein]

1. your preference but since its your first I would say remove it for ease of access to lower frets

2. Yes. The neck must be straight (no relief or back bow) when you do a fret level.

3. Not for sure but if it is an allen key then most likely 3 or 4mm.

I am going to link you to a picture tutorial I did on a fret dress job on my FB page. It is not a detailed "how to" but gives you the steps with some pics for reference. pics are 1-10 in order with some captions to read:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.223513831153370.1073741853.132279456943475&type=1

Thanks again and that link was really helpful. Now I see why a fret job is so expensive.

[billstein]

Ok. Almost there. I have everything except the adhesive backed sandpaper. Is Stewmac the place to get that from or can you use regular sheets of sandpaper with spray adhesive?

[pryde]

Ok. Almost there. I have everything except the adhesive backed sandpaper. Is Stewmac the place to get that from or can you use regular sheets of sandpaper with spray adhesive?

I buy the Stewmac 3M roll of 250 grit but it is pricey. Cheaper method is use spray adhesive. Make sure you get good quality free-cut sandpaper as you don't want the fret material to bunch up when leveling.   

[billstein]

Ok. Almost there. I have everything except the adhesive backed sandpaper. Is Stewmac the place to get that from or can you use regular sheets of sandpaper with spray adhesive?

I buy the Stewmac 3M roll of 250 grit but it is pricey. Cheaper method is use spray adhesive. Make sure you get good quality free-cut sandpaper as you don't want the fret material to bunch up when leveling.   

Just ordered the sandpaper from Stewmac. Soon as that comes in the guitar goes under the knife. I'm excited and a bit nervous about it all.

[pryde]

You will get several yards of that 250 grit so it will last you a long time, pricey but very high quality stuff.

Good luck with your project, remember its practice at this point so don't get discouraged. Most all mistakes are fixable unless you somehow blow it up 

[billstein]

I think I have everything I need. Large sanding block, sandpaper, string action gauge, fingerboard guards, fret crowning file, fret rocker.

I've taken the neck off and got it as flat as I think I'm going to get it. I've marked all the frets with a red marker. I guess I start sanding next. Any suggestions on how to go about this?

[pryde]

I think I have everything I need. Large sanding block, sandpaper, string action gauge, fingerboard guards, fret crowning file, fret rocker.

I've taken the neck off and got it as flat as I think I'm going to get it. I've marked all the frets with a red marker. I guess I start sanding next. Any suggestions on how to go about this?

Remember the neck has a radius so gently follow that as you move the sanding block. Also the direction of sanding should be more or less nut<>heal (long ways).

Go slow and gentle always and take a preliminary pass with the sanding block so that you can "read" the fret plane by looking at the initial areas where your red marker is gone. This will tell you if your neck is indeed flat. If you see wear in the middle (say frets 5-12) then you have some backbow and should loosen the truss a bit. If you have no wear in the middle but only on first few frets and then again on higher frets then you have to much relief and need to tighten the truss a bit.

Once you have determined you are sanding a relatively flat plane, then proceed gently and slow checking your red marks every few passes with the sanding block. You will likely end up with just a couple spots (divots or very low spots) that will finally emerge. Continue sanding right to the point were the last red area just disappears and STOP. Frets are leveled and you are ready for step 2: crowning

   

[billstein]

Thanks again Jeff for taking the time to help. I really appreciate it.

[jimijam]

check out the forums at projectguitar.com
you can find the answers to anything you need. lots of incredible talent and resources there

[mandrewbot3k]

I've never used his pickups on a Strat, but I have Bill Lawrence (Wilde Pickups) Keystones in my Tele and I LOVE them. And you cannot beat them for the price (although apparently Tonerider's are pretty decent too).

Might want to check out Bill's work at www.wildepickups.com $84 for the set of 3 keystones for strat. He's the real deal when it comes to pickups. Family owned and operated, hand made in the USA by a master craftsman that hold a lot of pickup patents (he actually has workers do it, but their attention to detail is great. He used to work for Gibson LONG ago. Dont get confused with Bill Lawrence USA pickups which are made by some russian guy that refuses to give up the name and actually sued Bill Lawrence and forced him to change his company name to Wilde Pickups.

Tonerider can be purchased on ebay and some other sites online www.tonerider.com. I've got a set of Tone Rider p90s waiting to go into a thinline tele build.