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My First Build - Mudbunny

Started by blackedition, January 12, 2014, 05:49:39 PM

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blackedition

Also, I was wondering...what size soldering tips do people like to work on the pedal pcbs?  I usually use a Weller ST6.  I'm wondering if I should try a slightly larger tip like the ST1 or ST2.

Thoughts?  For reference, here is a link that shows all the tip sizes compatible with my soldering iron/station (Weller WLC100)

Blues Healer

#16
for a ready made list of parts from Mouser, you might want to check this thread :
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5703.0
the mudbunny parts are under "muffage"

note that the pcb mounted pots are not available from Mouser, that's one thing you'll want to get from SmallBear

I try to make note of price breaks as I go through my order, especially common items

as far as solder tips, I use an ST7 on my WP35 ... it's pretty close to the ST6, just conical rather than screwdriver. I think this is about the right size.
"music heals"

blackedition

wow thanks for cluing me into that post.  i'll probably not use it for the mudbunny because i'm pretty much done building the cart at small bear, but, it will be very useful for future builds!

unfortunately, it looks like this project is going to be in the planning stages for a little while longer...  the wallet took at hit to the tune of $500 as a result of some car repairs (blasted cold weather...).  however, the extra planning certainly won't hurt!

AntKnee

I went through the "which type of capacitor should I use" thing recently on my first scratch build. For your capacitors, you can look at the layout diagram for your pedal and see which caps should be film (box), which should be ceramic and which should be electrolytic. You can pretty much guess which you need by their value, but there is some overlap in options in some cases. I have found that on my pedal I needed some 1uF box caps and some polarzed 1 uF electrolytic caps as well. On the layout diagram, the Film caps are rectangles, ceramic are ovals, and electrolytics are circles.
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

blackedition

Quote from: AntKnee on January 27, 2014, 02:44:05 PM
I went through the "which type of capacitor should I use" thing recently on my first scratch build. For your capacitors, you can look at the layout diagram for your pedal and see which caps should be film (box), which should be ceramic and which should be electrolytic. You can pretty much guess which you need by their value, but there is some overlap in options in some cases. I have found that on my pedal I needed some 1uF box caps and some polarzed 1 uF electrolytic caps as well. On the layout diagram, the Film caps are rectangles, ceramic are ovals, and electrolytics are circles.

That's a great point.  I'll have to go through the layouts of the three boards that I'm going to be buying parts for and see if things line up in regards to what I was planning on buying versus what the layouts call for.  Once I think I've compiled everything, I am going to post screen shots of my carts at the various vendors to show what i'm planning on getting.  if people are interested, they can give me feedback on components that they think could be improved/changed.

Unfortunately one of the electrolytics that I was going to be getting from Small Bear went out of stock.  I also might be waiting for the JMK testing rig to go on sale before I build these.  I could likely follow the tutorials and build one myself, but I'd like to see what the "kit" testing rig looks like first :)


AntKnee

I'm curious about that test rig also. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure he only does PCBs, so you'll still have to build it yourself. I'm thinking it will be a board to attach wires to. Maybe he will chime in on that.
I build, and once in a while I might sell, pedals as "Vertigo Effects".

blackedition

yeah i figured as much.  however, i'm still curious, haha...

i'm also curious about the tiny tester for jfets.  as of right now, i only have a multimeter, and have no idea how to go about testing the fets with that...

Clayford

#22
First off - Welcome to the MAAADNEESS! The Mudbunny is a great first project! Even if it says "Cowboy" it's just due to the number of components involved. You've got a good station, so you shouldn't be a stranger to soldering. Your Led placement should be good if you follow the suggestions from the folks above me. Madbean has a nifty trick he shows off in a build report of the Zero Point SDX (about halfway down) about solder lug pots as board mounted that would be PERFECT in your situation - just lengthen the wires a touch

Quote from: blackedition on January 21, 2014, 11:26:23 AM
Oops, they do have the 1290s.  They are also $6.  The price of the BLMS is a dollar cheaper...  I might try out the BLMS...  Not 100% sure; I'm a bit conflicted.  I suppose it doesn't really matter that much...

For the record:
<~~~~ This bitch LOVES his switches, and his enclosures. The 3pdt's are nice and solid. As with ALL multi-pin devices, it would be a good idea to solder one or two then wait a bit so you're not overheating the device. Besides the "jelly" there's also some lubricant inside the switch you don't want to kill as well.

Quote from: blackedition on January 23, 2014, 01:15:46 AM
Also, I was wondering...what size soldering tips do people like to work on the pedal pcbs?  I usually use a Weller ST6.  I'm wondering if I should try a slightly larger tip like the ST1 or ST2.

Thoughts?  For reference, here is a link that shows all the tip sizes compatible with my soldering iron/station (Weller WLC100)
As mentioned by Blues Healer - that ST7 (fine point conical) will be perfect.

Other things that have been made mention of that are helpful
Chomosphere recommomends Bluetack/Poster putty as a great holder for things as is this little inexpensive vise from HF. Check your dollar store for the poster adhesive.
And don't use silly putty.

Trust me on this.
head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

blackedition

nice...  they seem to be really well regarded :)

Clayford

I can't find it - and I'll check with AlanP he used to have a shared 3PDT board that was cheap from OSH 2.50 for three and free shipping.
I apparently posted instead of previewed at one point - so there's some editing that went on after you replied. Might be of interest on you.
head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

blackedition

#25
wow great suggestions, thanks a lot! 

as far as the solder tips go, i have the st6 tip, but i'll probably order an st7 as well.

that little hobby vise looks awesome!  i was thinking of getting one of the panavise jr.'s, but for the money, the one you linked looks more versatile.  it will also match my HF desktop drill press :).

i've never tried the blue tac method for holding components as i've always been a 3m blue painter's tape devotee when it came to securing components.  i'm not averse to trying it out though!

as far as the 3pdt boards, i lucked out and was able to score quite a few from 1776 when they were restocked earlier this month (i also got the multiplex echo machine board ;) ).

i'm really looking forward to hitting the ground running with these builds.  i have to go through the build docs again to make sure that i've got the right cap form factors (box, radial, axial, electrolytic, ceramic, etc...).  other than that, i was super inspired by the electric mayhem thread, and want to build a dwarfcraft great destroyer as well, so i might have to get a little bit of vero :)  i know i'm getting ahead of myself, but, i'm excited :)

anywho, this weekend i am going to be traveling, but i hope to order all the components for the first few builds by the next weekend.  i enjoy electronics enough that i know i am going to want to do at least a few builds, so i am going to order as many of the common components in relative bulk (200 packs of common resistor types) to keep the unit prices down per build...  if the first few builds go well...well, i can see myself making a little pedal building station in my music room:)


blackedition

(not related to mudbunny build) -> another random question i have, is in regards to trimpots.  are they standardized in terms of their lead spacing?  i'm not sure which one i should from small bear for the dwarfcraft great destroyer and the multiplex echo machine...  also, the great destroyer calls for a 22k trimmer, but small bear only has 20k and 25k, i figure the 25k would be a decent substitute?

any thoughts?

Clayford

You are correct in that a 25k would suit you just fine. Trimmers - They aren't all spaced the same - there are different ones. Typically Madbean boards are setup for 3362P trimmers. You can find them readily at Mouser or Tayda Steve stocks a similar item SKU1015that will fit pin spacing wise, but will be a bit larger of a body and you might need to put it on the opposite side of the board depending on the project.
I'm not familiar with his other trimmers, but here's a very cool thing about Smallbear.- email him. Tell him you're working on X project and need to know Y - You will get an answer, usually from him, always with the right info and always complete honesty!
head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

Blues Healer

I like those Bourns trimmers, and that brings something up .... look at some of Brian's projects, and you will discover a few things as far as components.
also, there is a guide, probably either on DIY stompboxes, or on Beavis Audio's site ... as far as components, there are basic conventions in the way things are spelled out on the list of components, such as uF is electrolytic, nF is film, pF is ceramic, etc ........... there are some exceptions though ...
"music heals"