Nautilus voltages - fixed

[icecycle66]

Project is Nautilus

Nothing is coming through the effect but hiss or hum.
On-On switches do nothing. 
Pots do nothing except for gain.  Gain turns hiss or hum louder of softer.
3P4T switch changes the tone of the hum or hiss.
3mm LED is always on and burning bright.

No substitutions were used.
Checked for trace shorts.
Reflowed everything.
Changed off board pots & switches.

Here are the ic voltages for a Nautilus that isn't working.  Can someone post their voltages on a working one?
(IC pin 8 just thinks it's so darn cool, with its shades on)
IC1
1) 2.2 mv
2) -1.8mv
3) -.8mv
4) 9.5v
5) .9mv
6) -.8mv
7) -.8mv
.2mv
9) 2.2mv
10) 1.1mv
11) -8.72v
12) 1.1mv
13) .2mv
14) -6mv

IC2
1) .3mv
2) .3mv
3) .8mv
4) 9.5mv
5) .8mv
6) 2.2mv
7) 2.2mv
7.69v
9) 2.597v
10) 3.787v
11) -8.72v
12) 1.2mv
13) .7mv
14) 3.57v

IC5 (charge pump)
1) 9.5v
2) 5.69v
3) 1.8mv
4) -3.482v
5) -8.73v
6) 4.83v
7) 6.16v
9.5v

Three random spots
VAC2, jumper side LED lead: 7.69v
jumper nearest peak pot: 7.69v
3P4T, lead A: -6mv

Component side:


Solder side:

[fendman]

I  can fire mine up tommorow morning, its a single side etch I did same as yours..  I will give you the ic volts data I have on mine. Best I can do.

Mike

[fendman]

Ok here are my readings for the IC's taken with respect to Ground. Seems the only real difference is my +Vcc is 9.14v  yours is 9.5v

I would also take a really close look at all those leads on the soldered side....I try and never tag leads on, its a recipe for disaster. They can cause you a lot of uneccesary problems.

IC1                                         
1) -0.7mv        -1.7mv
2) -1.4mv       9) -0.7mv
3) -0.6mv      10)  0.4mv
4) 9.14v        11)  -8.01v
5) 0.1mv       12)   0.4mv
6)-0.5mv       13)  -1.7mv
7)-0.5mv       14)  -2.0mv


IC2
1)1.4mv        -6.61v
2)1.4mv        9)  3.72v
3)0.2mv      10)  3.62v
4) 9.14v      11) -8.01v
5)0.2mv      12)  0.6mv
6)1.0mv      13) -0.4mv
7)1.0mv      14)   4.59v


IC5
1)9.14          5)-8.02v
2)5.43        6) 4.38v
3)0.9mv      7) 5.69v
4)-3.23v      9.14v

[icecycle66]

Thanks man.

I don't see much difference except for a few spots:

IC1 pins 9 and 13 are comparatively pretty far off.  I'll double check the capacitor and flip the switch to see if they match up.
IC2 pin 8 is way off.  I'll mess with the Peak knob and see what's up. 
IC5 pin 1 is way off.  I'll check traces again for shorts. 

[midwayfair]

Angelo, if you have an audio probe (or an old cable around to make one), it might be helpful to trace the signal until you lose it.

Which charge pump are you using, and which one did Fendman use? Yours is correct if you used a MAX1044 or 7660 (because pin 1 is connected to 9v), but incorrect if you used an LT1054. Looks like Fendman used the 1054, because his pin 1 isn't connected to +9v. If you used an LT1054, you have to bend pin 1 out of the way.

[fendman]

Sorry about that... Pin 1 is 9.14v  I used the TC1044scpa.

[icecycle66]

I used the TC1044SCPA pump.

I've set aside this evening to go all audio probe up on this fool.

[icecycle66]

See those vactrols up there?

They are upside down.  Flip them over and the effect works.

I decided to check all my polarities again.  This time, however, I thought to myself that I was taking for granted that my ICs are in correctly.  While I was checking those, I realized that I had never double checked the Vacs.  They were in upside down.

Fixed and working.

[fendman]

It was the first thing I looked at!!!! I noticed there was no writing on them, then I looked at the red and yellow leads and they were close together which looked right.... the other end they are wider apart. Wish now I had mentioned it.

Anyway really glad you have fixed it, I use mine quite a lot its a nice pedal when you get used to using it.

Mike