MLCC in Zero Point Deluxe

[hagcel]

C49 calls for a 1uf MLCC.

Can I sub a 1uf Tant? If so which way should the pos lead go in?

I also have a 1uf film box cap but it's way to big for that spot.

Thanks!

[Guitar Master]

I would probably stick to the MLCC, but I think the top is negative, bottom is positive of the cap just looking by the schematic. I hope this helps.

[Bluz]

I am currently building two Zero Point delays myself. Are you having trouble finding that value of mlcc?  I am ordering mine from futurlec.com, they have all the mlcc's needed for this build. Hope that helps. Bluz

[madbean]

You do not have to use MLCC. Tantalum would be okay, BUT here's what I would do: use you DMM and measure the voltage on pins 2 and 1. They will probably be about the same, but if one is higher stick the positive end of the tant on that one. If looking straight down at the PCB, the top part of the cap is connected to pin2 and the bottom part is connected to pin1.

Or, use a 1uF non-polar electrolytic.

Or, if you have two 2u2 electrolytic caps, wire them in series with the negative OR positive leads soldered together to make about a 1uF non-polar cap.

[hagcel]

Thanks a lot everyone!

A few more questions:

There are some other holes in the board, like under IC4. Am I supposed to do something with those?

Do I only need to connect 1 In / Out grds?

I'm a little confused on how the switch pcb is supposed to connect to the main PCB. Should the holes be lined up directly on top of one another? I'll be connecting with wires. Should I use an inch of wire then I can move it around where ever it fits? Is that the idea?

Thanks!

[hagcel]

I ordered the MLCC from mouser.

But this brings up a question:

When do you use ceramic / film / electro / Tant / MLCC?

I'd guess film and ceramic are mostly based on value but how do you know if you need an electro / Tant / MLCC?

Also still curious on the other holes in the board and best way too connect the baby board to the main board.

Thanks!

[midwayfair]

But this brings up a question:

When do you use ceramic / film / electro / Tant / MLCC?

This is either a simple or complicated question, depending on a lot of things.

The simple answer is: 90% of the time, it doesn't matter. Use a polarized cap when the designer has a polarized cap, and a non-polarized cap when they don't. 5% of the time, the designer has simply used a particular cap for space reasons. In the case of the ZP, the MLCCs are clearly for space reasons.

The complicated answer is: Capacitors have differences in their internal resistance as well as their capacitance. Aluminum electrolytics, for instance, have more resistance than tantalum or poly. This can affect things like how well the cap filters power supply ripple. There are some EE guys (Merlin Blencowe is one) who swear that you will get better performance at identical capacitance paralleling a tantalum and electrolytic than two of both. There are other considerations: Tantalum caps last longer, but they are more sensitive to reverse voltage. Tantalum caps have a higher social cost (yes, really). Aluminum caps are cheaper. Ceramic caps cost less until they are MLCC, and then they cost more, but they're smaller than poly caps at the same size. Ceramic tends to have more noise. Some people think they sound more brittle, but I can't tell the difference certainly not with one cap.