More Sunking questions

[MattL]

I'm really confused, because I want to wire my Sunking (V.3) true bypass, but the drawings show true bypass for the one sided version, which is layed out differently; for example, in the instructions, it says for true bypass that you're not using S1 and S4, yet they are pictured wired in the one sided version. There is also no mention of the additions of resistors 28 and 29 that are seen in both diagrams. can someone give me a succinct idea of how to do this, or how to interpret these drawings to get true bypass out of a 3PDP? Also, I'm assuming based on what I can get out of descriptions and pictures, that since the center row (normally 4,5, and 6) is eliminated, then you're now assigning those numbers to what would normally be 7,8, and 9? I'm really not new to building, but this one's got me!

[midwayfair]

The green wire is your OUT.

Wire it where you would normally wire board out on whatever standard 3PDT scheme you use.

The IN is the light blue wire.

Rather than wiring it directly to the jack, wire it where you would normally wire board out on whatever standard 3PDT scheme you use.

Omit the purple, brown, and dark blue wires. Wire the jack and LED connections as you normally would for any other true bypass pedal.

You will need to wire a pulldown resistor directly to the switch; there's no space for it on the board.

EDIT: That wiring diagram is buffered bypass, not mechanical.

[MattL]

Thanks for the quick response, but I'm not sure we're looking at the same version. Normally I use the "easy" wiring diagram, though sometimes I use the Madbean version on those pedals. To wire the switch normally I'd need a board output which this doesn't seem to have (to lug seven), unless it's an "S" pad. The directions say to wire true bypass that you remove C3, and resistors 3,4,28,29, and thirty. Then it says add RTB for true bypass...is that not the pulldown resistor? Meanwhile, since there's no indication as to the purpose of the resistors on the switch, then I don't know (if still necessary) where (or why!) I'd put them on there. So I guess the biggest remaining problem is, based on the easy wiring diagram, where would lug seven go to, and where, if necessary, do the resistors go on the switch. Also on the TB diagram the resistors on the switch are 26 an 27; those are on my board. I can't find a version number on the board, but the board seems to match up with the double sided version depicted on the first page of the directions. Really the biggest questions remain, I guess, are about the resistors on the switch and what would be, or the equivalent of a board out. The problem is, these directions show the board I have with the switch I don't want, and the switch I want with the board I don't have!

[MattL]

On further looking and comparing different diagrams, it seems that maybe S6 is the board out? If so, I think I could use the regular easy wiring diagram; still not sure about the on switch resistors, but I'm guessing that with the resistors designated for that being on the board, as well as the RTB, that I can skip that. Am I on the right track, or hopelessly lost?

[midwayfair]

On further looking and comparing different diagrams, it seems that maybe S6 is the board out? If so, I think I could use the regular easy wiring diagram; still not sure about the on switch resistors, but I'm guessing that with the resistors designated for that being on the board, as well as the RTB, that I can skip that. Am I on the right track, or hopelessly lost?

The wiper of the volume pot is board out. Whatever the pad is that's connected directly to that without any intervening components is your board out, regardless of the layout or parts numbering.

There are no on-switch resistors (two 68Ks) in the true-bypass version if RTB is already on-board.

Take a look at the schematic and you can see what's going on: The buffered bypass taps of Pin1 of IC1, with an AC decoupling resistor and a voltage divider that results in unity gain.

I'm looking at the version 3 document. I won't post a link here for obvious reasons.

Also, the color looks a little different on this monitor. The "In" pad is whatever's connected to R1. It's the ... medium blue? ... wire I guess. I don't think that one was in question, though.

[MattL]

On around page four of the instructions it has a "wiring true bypass" listing that indicates which pads go where,and says S6 goes to FX output. I had thought of the wiper of the volume control, as most vero effects I've built do that. If S6 doesn't fill this function, what does it do?

Normally I do:

LUG:
1-board input
2-input jack
3,9-jumped together
4-LED
5-ground
6-nothing
7-board out
8-output jack

I'd love to make it work like that. Is it doable, assuming lug 7 goes to the right place, and can that be S6 since I've already wired up the pots? Thanks for your help...I'm still trying to get up to speed on the "hows" and "whys" of things, so please pardon the need to keep picking your brain on this. So can I wire the switch as above and attach lug 7 to pad 6? I guess that's the real question.

[midwayfair]

I think it would be easier to just wire your switch like Brian's standard wiring diagram (on the projects page) and match the numbers to that than to try to reverse engineer a different wiring diagram.

[MattL]

Thanks, will try that!

[madbean]

Here's how I did it. Frankly, looking back at this layout it could be improved a lot. I should have handled the R28 resistor in a different way.

Anyway, let me know if anything is unclear. Other than wiring the pots, all the other wire pads are left unconnected.

[MattL]

Thanks Brian, although I'm using the double sided fabbed board, I'm guessing that if pad 6 is the output, I should be able to get it to work. The switch is as I wired it, so I'll have a go at it!

[madbean]

My bad. For the sake of clarity.

[MattL]

Perfect Brian, thanks so much!